Swapping the Lariat rear bumper for the Tremor rear bumper

[5.0Screw22]

The part number discussion is getting confusing and I think I can help people sort it out. First, there are two numbers for each part and it seems that people may be confusing the part number with the engineering number. The part number is the number Ford uses to sell the part. That number is on the box, bag, or tag for the part for sale. In this case, a blue Ford Parts tag. The engineering number is the number that is usually stamped on the part, cast or molded into the part, or it is on a decal on the part. On these exhaust pipes, the engineering number is on a white decal wrapped around the pipes. Here is what is on the pipes I purchased:

The driver’s side pipe is Ford part number is ML3Z-5202-H, but the number on the decal around the pipe is the engineering number of ML34-5202-J

The passenger’s side pipe is Ford part number is ML3Z-5202-J, but the number on the decal around the pipe is the engineering number of ML34-5202-K

If you are looking at the pipe on a vehicle, then you are looking at the engineering number on the white decal that surrounds the pipe. This is different from the Ford part number used to buy a part. Notice that the part number use ML3Z and the engineering starts with ML34.

Here is a photo from my passenger side pipe showing both numbers on the same pipe.

Let me toss in one more thing about Ford part numbers vs. engineering numbers: If Ford makes a minor change in a part, they will change the engineering number without changing the part number (if the change is backwards compatible). This is why it is important to make sure you know the difference between the two types of numbers that Ford uses.

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[9663mu]

The part number discussion is getting confusing and I think I can help people sort it out. First, there are two numbers for each part and it seems that people may be confusing the part number with the engineering number. The part number is the number Ford uses to sell the part. That number is on the box, bag, or tag for the part for sale. In this case, a blue Ford Parts tag. The engineering number is the number that is usually stamped on the part, cast or molded into the part, or it is on a decal on the part. On these exhaust pipes, the engineering number is on a white decal wrapper around the pipes. Here is what is on the pipes I purchased:

The driver’s side pipe is Ford part number is ML3Z-5202-H, but the number on the decal around the pipe is the engineering number of ML34-5202-J

The passenger’s side pipe is Ford part number is ML3Z-5202-J, but the number on the decal around the pipe is the engineering number of ML34-5202-K

If you are looking at the pipe on a vehicle, then you are looking at the engineering number on the white decal that surrounds the pipe. This is different from the Ford part number used to buy a part. Notice that the part number use ML3Z and the engineering starts with ML34.

Here is a photo from my passenger side pipe showing both numbers on the same pipe.

Let me toss in one more thing about Ford part numbers vs. engineering numbers: If Ford makes a minor change in a part, they will change the engineering number without changing the part number (if the change is backwards compatible). This is why it is important to make sure you know the difference between the two types of numbers that Ford uses.

Great info mate! Thank you . Has the rear bumper parts , part number been changed or is that the same ?

 

[JScaro]

Great info mate! Thank you . Has the rear bumper parts , part number been changed or is that the same ?

Parts list-
ML3Z- 17906-KAPTM Rear Bumper Assembly

Left and RIght retainers to hold original sensors, just unclipped and re routed wires
ML3Z-15K861 SBPTM Driver
ML3Z-15K861 SAPTM Passenger

ML3Z-5202-H Driver OEM Ford Exhaust pipe
ML3Z-5202-J Passenge OEM Ford Exhaust pipe
Custom Y pipe to the muffler

 

[9663mu]

Parts list-
ML3Z- 17906-KAPTM Rear Bumper Assembly

Left and RIght retainers to hold original sensors, just unclipped and re routed wires
ML3Z-15K861 SBPTM Driver
ML3Z-15K861 SAPTM Passenger

ML3Z-5202-H Driver OEM Ford Exhaust pipe
ML3Z-5202-J Passenge OEM Ford Exhaust pipe
Custom Y pipe to the muffler

Thanks!

Your front end looks great with that Stripe in grille!

 

[5.0Screw22]

Those are the bumper parts that I used as well. I also removed the clips from the harness and used wire ties to secure it back to the truck.

 

[5.0Screw22]

Let me share another thing that I am doing. I used a pair of T304 over the axle pipes from a Corsa Raptor muffler kit #14398 to adapt my tailpipes to the muffler instead of using a Y-pipe. The Corsa part numbers for the two pipes are 20FF4176 (RH) and 20FF4177 (LH), but I am not sure if they sell them individually. These pipes connect the factory pipes to the muffler which has a pair of dual 3" outputs. We are welding the 3" flanges onto a muffler to accommodate this, but it will look cleaner and be more modular in the end. This is just another idea to accomplish the same thing.

 

[5.0Screw22]

Here is another thing to consider before starting this project:

Takeoff 2019 Raptor Dual Exhaust muffler and pipes on a 2021

I looked at the Raptor tailpipes and thought they looked pretty much identical to the Tremor pipes. It looks like they would work as well and they might be a better option if you are on a budget. I've see Raptor takeoffs sell around a $100 a pair in good condition.

 

[21lariatspprt]

I went with the OEM Ford Exhaust pipe so I wouldn't have any issues
ML3Z-5202-H / ML3Z-5202-J

BM3, how did your drivers side tailpipe clear the rear brake lines?? It looks like a very tight fit. Hoping you wouldnt mind sharing a picture of two of that.

 

[Snakedoctor]

I went with the OEM Ford Exhaust pipe so I wouldn't have any issues
ML3Z-5202-H / ML3Z-5202-J

Someone is trying to sell me your exhaust tubes on an account on here. Be careful guys!

 

[BM3]

BM3, how did your drivers side tailpipe clear the rear brake lines?? It looks like a very tight fit. Hoping you wouldnt mind sharing a picture of two of that.

Once I have the truck in the air I'll share some more pics, I also had to remove the clips from the harness and used wire ties to secure it back to the truck.

 

[LOVEAZ]

Well, I finally got it done last week and wanted to post my findings to make it easier for anyone else who may be thinking of doing this. Here are the pics, and I have to say I absolutely LOVE how the truck came out. It a damn shame I had to spend all this time and money getting this done to my truck. This is how it should come from factory, IMO. Anyway, you will need the two bumper end caps (P/N ML3Z-17906-LAPTM) and two supplemental brackets (P/N ML3Z-17788-A and ML3Z-17787-B). The end caps will come unpainted, so keep in mind that you'll have to get them painted to match your truck. Swapping out the end caps is relatively easy to do and anyone that can turn basic hand tools should be able to do it. Notice in the pics that two of the back-up sensors get relocated further out towards the end of the bumper. This presented a challenge when it came to putting it back together because the wiring was barely long enough for the sensor to be put in the new location, but after playing with the wiring down there, I was able to get it to reach without having to splice into the factory wiring harness to make it longer. Like superfordman said, you will need to cut off and smooth down a tab on the sensors to fit in the sensor housing, but it is very easy to do. The Tremor has a different P/N for the trailer hitch, but you do not need to change the hitch; everything will line up and bolt up with the non-Tremor hitch.

When we were done, I took the truck to a muffler shop to get the exhaust tips raised and properly aligned to the exhaust cut-outs on the bumper. My exhaust is made by MBRP, but I am guessing any exhaust out there is going to run into the same problem mine did when it came to this part of the process. The exhaust could not simply be raised in place because it would have resting against the suspension. The muffler shop had to cut off the last few feet of both of the dual exhaust exits and make custom ones they bended into shape to allow the exhaust to clear the suspension and fit the tips nice and flush to the new bumper. This was the only modification required to do this, and the modification was done to the aftermarket exhaust itself and not to the truck.

Edit: The part numbers for the correct sensor retainers at the end of the bumper end caps are:

ML3Z 15K861 ABPTM
ML3Z 15K861 AAPTM

Hey did you end up having to use the two supplemental brackets (P/N ML3Z-17788-A and ML3Z-17787-B or will it work without them?

 

[rugedraw]

Hey did you end up having to use the two supplemental brackets (P/N ML3Z-17788-A and ML3Z-17787-B or will it work without them?

Yes, we did use them. Either way, they were inexpensive if I remember correctly

 

[LOVEAZ]

Yes, we did use them. Either way, they were inexpensive if I remember correctly

Ya there about $45 a piece

 

[21lariatspprt]

Anyone else willing to send a photo or two that used these factory tail pipes, showing how close said drivers side tail pipe comes to the drivers side rubber brake lines (that run from axle to frame). Looking ay my truck seems like these rubber lines would be real close. (Rubber lines on my truck in red). I know the breather tube and harness can be zipped out of way, those arent a concern. Its just these darn brake lines.

 

[5.0Screw22]

I would suggest moving them out of the way as much as you can and then wrapping them in aluminized heat sleeve. That stuff provides protection up to 500 degrees direct contact and 2000 degrees of radiant heat. Tail pipes get hot, but not that hot. The heat sleeve products are relatively inexpensive and good piece of mind. Amazon is full of companies selling them.

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