Stereo System upgrades thread

[CarbonizedRCSB]

I recently installed a set of Type R Alpine components and a Kicker key 200.4 running in bi-amp mode for active front stage and then a little Kicker hs8 under the seat. Not too thrilled with the tiny sub/amp combo so I might have to re-do the sub setup at some point in the near future. The Kicker key amp made a HUGE difference and is a must have for anyone wanting a dsp without putting in the time for tuning.

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[Graygoose2021]

Try the HS10, its the 10" version, you can use same wiring harness as the 11HS8.

 

[JBinFla]

I had the following installed:

2-Sony XS-162ES 6.5" component up front
2-Sony XS-160ES 6.5" 2-way in rear
1-JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 w/12" TW3-D4 speaker (2ohm)
1-Wavtech Link6 DSP
1-Kenwood XR901-5 AMP (4x75w @ 2ohm + 1x600w @ 2ohm)
plus all the wiring, fuses, etc. Put the amp volume (I have it on sub channel) up front to the right of the steering column about at the level of the AC controls. It's a nice inconspicuous location.

Parts you're looking at maybe $2k but it cost me $3k installed. I am digging it. The JL Audio 12" sub box was like $550 and you can get some other's for $250 but I'm really pleased with the 1-12" setup. It's much louder than I would have expected. I really wanted something clearer, and this does it for me. Those Sony XS-162ES up front really work for me. I'm happy with what I have. I'd say it's also loud enough to cause hearing damage as I was listening to it about half-volume and my ears were hurting so turned it down.

 

[Spacewhiteblackwidow]

Ive just upgraded my system using the following-

ZEN-A2B
FOCAL K2 FRONT REAR
ALPINE X-A70F
JL HD 750/1
12TW3 STEALTH

amongst other things.
The sound is incredible and to me worth the upgrade!

7k

can you post some pictures?

I did the hertz milli legends 3 ways up front then did the 6.5 in the back.. they are running off JL 8ch 800 then i put in the Rockford fosgate 750.1 for the subs. I did 4 8" hertz subs .. and the Zen A2b.. but having issues cause it is not getting signal to the subs there barely moving....

 

[Spacewhiteblackwidow]

can you post some pictures?

 

[Mscott2]

Where did you get that amp mount from?

 

[rugedraw]

Love all the collaboration going on this thread.

I think I’ll start with swapping the speakers too.
Where can I find the size of each of the speakers?

Is it easy as just taking out the OEM ones and installing the new ones? Do I need a specific type of speaker that doesn’t require an amp?

thanks again for all your help!

Someone posted a really good thread recently (can't remember if it was on here or another forum) about how he put an elaborate amp set up and kept all stock 18 B&O Unleashed speakers but pushed them harder with more powerful amps. If you take out the factory speakers and replace them and keep the factory amp, you won't get good results. Aftermarket speakers require more power than factory ones, so you can't just swap them out without providing them with more juice.

 

[Chili]

Does anyone know the deepest speaker you can put in the front doors? Looking at the JBL GTO 960c

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Does anyone know the deepest speaker you can put in the front doors? Looking at the JBL GTO 960c

I just put a set of Kicker 43DSC69304's in the front doors and there was enough clearance for those if that helps.

 

[Chili]

I just put a set of Kicker 43DSC69304's in the front doors and there was enough clearance for those if that helps.

Those have a top mount depth of 3 1/4". The JBL's i'm looking at around 3 1/8, so it does!

 

[TJSparky]

Here is my setup. I have the B&O 8 speaker system but the bass just sucked so I added only the sub in the rear.

 

[Spiffy]

Those that are thinking of upgrading the b&o with just speakers are going to be disappointed. The B&O amp is woefully inadequate and starts clipping at about 20 watts. The factory speakers are way more efficient than any after market speaker you will buy meaning that even more power is going to be needed to get the same volume output.
I started with a pac audio a2b converter.
Jl audio vxi 8 with tun4 software tuned by audio dealer with a max system. I also added a jl audio d series amp for a single jl audio 10wt3 sub in custom enclosure. My orignal system was the B&o unleashed 18 speaker. I opted to cut a few speakers out and only use the pillar, dash L R , front door and rear door. JL audio tune 4 allows for precise timing, resonance, crossover, line level and sub bass tuning.
I then while the truck was apart did sound dealing in doors and along back of cab.
Makes for super tight bass response.
For music quality I brought in lossless music from my roon core server from my home into my android phone then threw android auto. Intire data path is no compression 196kps. Flawless,lossless.
Using factory speakers with exception of sub the sound is purely magnificent.
Accurate, fast, clean
I went a little crazy especially when I started wanting just a sub woofer upgrade.

 

[Texas2022XLT]

I recently installed a set of Type R Alpine components and a Kicker key 200.4 running in bi-amp mode for active front stage and then a little Kicker hs8 under the seat. Not too thrilled with the tiny sub/amp combo so I might have to re-do the sub setup at some point in the near future. The Kicker key amp made a HUGE difference and is a must have for anyone wanting a dsp without putting in the time for tuning.

Where did you install the Kicker Key, I was watching Plug N Play and they were putting it in the dash but that was on a Super Duty...I don't think there is that much space on my 22 to do that.

 

[sippy2]

Those that are thinking of upgrading the b&o with just speakers are going to be disappointed. The B&O amp is woefully inadequate and starts clipping at about 20 watts. The factory speakers are way more efficient than any after market speaker you will buy meaning that even more power is going to be needed to get the same volume output.
I started with a pac audio a2b converter.
Jl audio vxi 8 with tun4 software tuned by audio dealer with a max system. I also added a jl audio d series amp for a single jl audio 10wt3 sub in custom enclosure. My orignal system was the B&o unleashed 18 speaker. I opted to cut a few speakers out and only use the pillar, dash L R , front door and rear door. JL audio tune 4 allows for precise timing, resonance, crossover, line level and sub bass tuning.
I then while the truck was apart did sound dealing in doors and along back of cab.
Makes for super tight bass response.
For music quality I brought in lossless music from my roon core server from my home into my android phone then threw android auto. Intire data path is no compression 196kps. Flawless,lossless.
Using factory speakers with exception of sub the sound is purely magnificent.
Accurate, fast, clean
I went a little crazy especially when I started wanting just a sub woofer upgrade.

Totaly disagree with that statement. I am doing a fairly high end 3-way active system in stages. Fiirst stage...agressive sound treatments and install Audiofrog GB10(stock pillar location),GB25(stock dash location) and GB60 in the doors. A huge improvement. Although expensive...I did source the speaks used and am at $1100 for the speakers...and around $1000 in treatments. retail on the speakers is close to 2K.

My behind the seat sub from SGS just shipped. I have a Helix P6 ultimate already. Still need to decide on sub amp and amp for rear fill.

But to say just upgrading speakers will be dissapointing ...not in my experience. Maybe if you are using low-end componets.

I will add you cant go past about 15-16 on volume control before distortion sets in.

I did try a Rockford PS-8 sub for grins...yuck...very boomy and not acuurate at all. I am SQ guy not a SPL guy. I did line stock sub with Resonix cld and it did tighten it up a bit.

Just sharing my experience.

 

[Spiffy]

Totaly disagree with that statement. I am doing a fairly high end 3-way active system in stages. Fiirst stage...agressive sound treatments and install Audiofrog GB10(stock pillar location),GB25(stock dash location) and GB60 in the doors. A huge improvement. Although expensive...I did source the speaks used and am at $1100 for the speakers...and around $1000 in treatments. retail on the speakers is close to 2K.

My behind the seat sub from SGS just shipped. I have a Helix P6 ultimate already. Still need to decide on sub amp and amp for rear fill.

But to say just upgrading speakers will be dissapointing ...not in my experience. Maybe if you are using low-end componets.

I will add you cant go past about 15-16 on volume control before distortion sets in.

I did try a Rockford PS-8 sub for grins...yuck...very boomy and not acuurate at all. I am SQ guy not a SPL guy. I did line stock sub with Resonix cld and it did tighten it up a bit.

Just sharing my experience.

So you just did speakers and keeping stock amp?

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