Spark Plug Change 3.5

[amschind]

For those interested, I recently changed the plugs on my PB. I got the initial set from a major dealer, but they were wrong because mid year in 2021, Ford switched from tapered seat to a copper gasket. FordTechMakuLoco has a great video on this, and THAT was my resource for finding the correct part number, which is SP596, with "DYFS12YPT" written on the plugs. The new plugs are visually easy to distinguish as they have a copper gasket vs a tapered shoulder just above the threads on the old plugs (and really, this is only an issue for MY21 trucks as everything since ~July 2021 is the new style).

Overall the job was really easy, though it was the first time I have used a torque wrench on a spark plug (set at 18 lbft for the new plugs). Every plug except for the rear passenger plug was very accessible though I recommend having 2" and 4" 3/8" extensions available (too long won't fit on the rear cylinders so you really need both of these extensions to get at the plugs), as breaking the initial seat on the factory plugs takes a bit of force and stuff is in the way. Other pro tip: pull all of the coils and boots at once and reinstall at the end. I found that the coils get in the way of replacing the rear cylinders, moreso on the passenger side. At 63k miles my boots looked essentially new, and while they are cheap they are also tough to find. Finally, the benefit of doing this yourself is that you will apply antiseize to the threads, such that the next time the plugs aren't a battle to break loose.

Overall, an easy job if you have the correct extensions handy AND got the correct parts beforehand. Hopefully someone will have an aftermarket coil by the time that I replace the plugs again.

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[HammaMan]

Haven't tried on this motor, but some OHC motors require socket-extension-swivel-extension-ratchet to get into plug. Looks to be plenty of room on this engine to access.

Did you get your blemish rectified?

 

[amschind]

Haven't tried on this motor, but some OHC motors require socket-extension-swivel-extension-ratchet to get into plug. Looks to be plenty of room on this engine to access.

Did you get your blemish rectified?

I had my Ujoints ready, but even as I tried them out, I ultimately didn't use them. The critical piece was extension length. It also helped to have long and short handle socket wrenches. A flexible handle socket wrench would've probably been great, but I didn't have one.

I will point out that I got a 1/4, 3/8, 3/4 Snap On socket wrench set off Fleabay for $120 total. All of them needed the innards cleaned and oiled, but it's just a cover and selector held on by three Phillips screws to get at everything. Scamazon Lucky Dragon Machine Company sockets plus used Snap on Wrenches is a darned effective combo.

 

[Deleted member 15247]

For those interested, I recently changed the plugs on my PB. I got the initial set from a major dealer, but they were wrong because mid year in 2021, Ford switched from tapered seat to a copper gasket. FordTechMakuLoco has a great video on this, and THAT was my resource for finding the correct part number, which is SP596, with "DYFS12YPT" written on the plugs. The new plugs are visually easy to distinguish as they have a copper gasket vs a tapered shoulder just above the threads on the old plugs (and really, this is only an issue for MY21 trucks as everything since ~July 2021 is the new style).

Overall the job was really easy, though it was the first time I have used a torque wrench on a spark plug (set at 18 lbft for the new plugs). Every plug except for the rear passenger plug was very accessible though I recommend having 2" and 4" 3/8" extensions available (too long won't fit on the rear cylinders so you really need both of these extensions to get at the plugs), as breaking the initial seat on the factory plugs takes a bit of force and stuff is in the way. Other pro tip: pull all of the coils and boots at once and reinstall at the end. I found that the coils get in the way of replacing the rear cylinders, moreso on the passenger side. At 63k miles my boots looked essentially new, and while they are cheap they are also tough to find. Finally, the benefit of doing this yourself is that you will apply antiseize to the threads, such that the next time the plugs aren't a battle to break loose.

Overall, an easy job if you have the correct extensions handy AND got the correct parts beforehand. Hopefully someone will have an aftermarket coil by the time that I replace the plugs again.

Just curious, how many miles on the truck before the plug swap?

 

[amschind]

Just curious, how many miles on the truck before the plug swap?

62k. The old plugs looked completely fine and it wasn't missing or anything. Part of the benefit was proving that it's easy and making sure that it is even easier next time.

 

[Deleted member 15247]

62k. The old plugs looked completely fine and it wasn't missing or anything. Part of the benefit was proving that it's easy and making sure that it is even easier next time.

Gotcha. I was wondering how much of a PITA that would be to do. Notice any difference in your fuel mileage or does it run any better?

 

[amschind]

Gotcha. I was wondering how much of a PITA that would be to do. Notice any difference in your fuel mileage or does it run any better?

My mileage did improve, but that likely had far more to do with replacing the factory catalytic constrictors at the same time. I will note that the cat DTC did cone on after a while, though since this is the last year for Texas vehicle inspection, it's irrelevant. I will also note that my Flowmaster DBX was tolerable with stock cats, but sounds like a 16 year old's 1998 Camaro with 49 state cats. I'm gonna go to a Flowmaster 70 series because I'm 40, not 16.

 

[Deleted member 15247]

My mileage did improve, but that likely had far more to do with replacing the factory catalytic constrictors at the same time. I will note that the cat DTC did cone on after a while, though since this is the last year for Texas vehicle inspection, it's irrelevant. I will also note that my Flowmaster DBX was tolerable with stock cats, but sounds like a 16 year old's 1998 Camaro with 49 state cats. I'm gonna go to a Flowmaster 70 series because I'm 40, not 16.

lol. Thanks for sharing brother. Have a good day

 

[amschind]

Haven't tried on this motor, but some OHC motors require socket-extension-swivel-extension-ratchet to get into plug. Looks to be plenty of room on this engine to access.

Did you get your blemish rectified?

Got an appointment to get it pounded out in June and then I'll get the rocker panels done up with LineX like I've been planning for 3 years. Gonna try to pick up tractor AND loader next week off, so time will be tight. It turns out that Facebook marketplace is THE place to buy ag equipment. Thanks, Zuck!

 

[nitrobass24]

@amschind what did you replace your factory Cats with?

 

[amschind]

@amschind what did you replace your factory Cats with?

THE WRONG THING. I used high flow Flowmaster cats with custom build pipes, which I believe are more restrictive and also don't keep the MIL off. I have a set of SPD downpipes arriving next week and will be using those. I also used a DBX straight through muffler, which was okay with stock cats but is intolerable without them. I am replacing the whole thing with the SPD downpipe kit and a Flowmaster 70 series. Learn from my mistakes.

 

[nitrobass24]

Thanks I would love to remove the Cats, but I dont really care for extra noise...I like the quiet. Wondering how the flowmasters would sound compared to the stock muffler.

 

[amschind]

Thanks I would love to remove the Cats, but I dont really care for extra noise...I like the quiet. Wondering how the flowmasters would sound compared to the stock muffler.

Two things.
1) high flow cats and manifolds are where you gain performance. Everything else provides a far smaller gain
2) I'll let you know how the 70 series sounds. Be advised that I wanted an in front of the wheel setup, so my challenge is mounting the 70 series vertically where the old resonator was to gain enough space to get the pipe bent to get in front of the rear wheel. Lots of reasons, but the big one is that I want to be able to charge my airstream from my truck without shooting exhaust directly at my trailer's front door.

 

[HammaMan]

Two things.
1) high flow cats and manifolds are where you gain performance. Everything else provides a far smaller gain
2) I'll let you know how the 70 series sounds. Be advised that I wanted an in front of the wheel setup, so my challenge is mounting the 70 series vertically where the old resonator was to gain enough space to get the pipe bent to get in front of the rear wheel. Lots of reasons, but the big one is that I want to be able to charge my airstream from my truck without shooting exhaust directly at my trailer's front door.

An even better solution is to have a slip-on coiled pipe to duct the exhaust elsewhere. It's a common issue for all generators.

 

[amschind]

An even better solution is to have a slip-on coiled pipe to duct the exhaust elsewhere. It's a common issue for all generators.

That's very true, but I also wanted a shorter pipe and to avoid the hot spot where the bend over the rear axle gets close to the body. I would've gone to stock exhaust exit and your solution, but I haven't noted any changes to the rear passenger tire or wheel.

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