Reverse Level Questions

[ItsSkoog]

Had a quick and probably dumb couple of questions. I have a crew cab short bed (5.5) 4x4 non max tow I’m looking to reverse level. I’m going to be installing ford performance lowering shackles and removing the block from the axle.

First question is if a front end alignment after the reverse level is needed?

Second question is about pinion shims. I bought 2.5° shims and was wondering if the alignment pins that align the axle and spring pack need to be lengthened to fit into the pockets again and if so, how did you accomplish that?

Thanks in advance!

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[Natetroknot]

I took out the blocks on mine but left the stock shackles. Did not get an alignment. You will not need one replacing the shackles either.

I did not use shims. I think it’s hit or miss if the lower will induce vibes and depends on the truck and your luck. As far as the center pins, my leaf pack had 2 per side, you will leave those alone. You’re just filling in some of the space your blocks took up with shims, so things will go together fine. There will be pockets in the shims for the center pin heads, just slap it together and cinch down your u bolts, off and running.

 

[Natetroknot]

iirc, the center pins are quite a bit longer than necessary and if the shims go in with the leaf pack you should have plenty of length. I’ve never used them myself, been lucky. Hopefully they’re not seized up, around my parts they would be cut off only after a winter.

 

[Smithz]

I removed my blocks and after a couple of weeks, I felt I needed a little more. I installed Ford Performance lowering shackles. I did have a small vibration after the install. I then installed the shims. The shims fixed all the vibration. The alignment pins are long enough and the U bolts have enough threads without the blocks. If you add the rear sway-bar to that set up. Your truck would handle better than you can imagine! Had my 19 year old some drive my truck. He was amazed that my truck handled way better than his civic. I also have the Bilstein 5100 rear shocks. It keeps the rear eand from kicking out when you hit bumps.

 

[ItsSkoog]

I removed my blocks and after a couple of weeks, I felt I needed a little more. I installed Ford Performance lowering shackles. I did have a small vibration after the install. I then installed the shims. The shims fixed all the vibration. The alignment pins are long enough and the U bolts have enough threads without the blocks. If you add the rear sway-bar to that set up. Your truck would handle better than you can imagine! Had my 19 year old some drive my truck. He was amazed that my truck handled way better than his civic. I also have the Bilstein 5100 rear shocks. It keeps the rear eand from kicking out when you hit bumps.

Did you get a front end alignment after the blocks and shackles? Also what sway bar did you end up installing in the rear, making the truck handle better would definitely be something I’m looking for in the near future!

 

[diambo4life]

I took out the blocks on mine but left the stock shackles. Did not get an alignment. You will not need one replacing the shackles either.

I did not use shims. I think it’s hit or miss if the lower will induce vibes and depends on the truck and your luck. As far as the center pins, my leaf pack had 2 per side, you will leave those alone. You’re just filling in some of the space your blocks took up with shims, so things will go together fine. There will be pockets in the shims for the center pin heads, just slap it together and cinch down your u bolts, off and running.

What he said above!

Maxtrac 1" shackles, block removal, no shims, no alignment. Everything rides good. This truck has gone over 140mph on the highway several times so if the alignment was off, I would know it lol.

 

[McStabby]

I used 2" drops and left the blocks. 2.5 degree pinion shims. No alignment and no vibrations. I had vibration between 25 and 40mph but shims took that away. All smooth now.

 

[GypsyDanger]

I just pulled the rear blocks today. Still has a baby rake but much better than before and of I tow itll still have a bit more to give before the front launches up.

 

[SALEEN961]

An alignment isn't needed in the sense that nothing will be off by a large amount, but lowering the rear of your truck 2.75" will increase the caster and change the front toe slightly. It's very possible that everything will still be close the factory spec without doing an alignment, but if you want everything to be perfect, getting an alignment is recommended. I've been known to align my truck just to make a 0.10° change to the total toe or a 0.2° change to the front camber, but I'm not normal.

Your rear blocks should be flat since your truck has a 145" wheelbase, so removing them won't require any pinion shims. Adding drop shackles to your truck will change the pinion angle and point the pinion further down. With stock shackles, my pinion is already slightly more nose down than I would normally target, but it's close enough to not cause any noticeable issues so I've left it alone.

If your truck is like mine, the drop shackles may require pinion shims to get things running perfectly smooth. A 2.5° degree pinion shim sounds reasonable, but measuring the angles after everything else is done and ordering the correct shims is always the best option. Ideally you want the pinion to be nose down enough that the operating angle at the rear u-joint to be about 1° higher than the operating angle of the front u-joint while the vehicle is at rest. You can also get the numbers closer to being even if you have traction bars that limit axle wrap.

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