OP
ricko24

ricko24

Well-known member
First Name
Rick
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
168
Reaction score
128
Location
Florida
Vehicles
2021 F-150 Lariat PB
@rick024, the tankless water heater is going to be spark ignition as opposed to a pilot light (I know almost nothing about campers but I'm well versed on tankless!)
So what kind of power would that draw? Does that ignition only get triggered when the hot water valve is turned on?





Advertisement

 

smackit

New member
First Name
Mister Smith
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Reno
Vehicles
2021 F150 Lariat
Maybe you should look into a Micro-Air Easy Start. it goes into your A/C and cuts down on the power draw at startup. I've got on on my 22' fb AS, and a Honda 2200 runs the unit just fine. My new F150, is scheduled to be built this week.
This is good advice, most RV AC units pull over 50 Amps at startup, the Easy Start drops that to about 15 amps. It's one of the first things I buy for every trailer we've had.
 

Whoosh

Active member
First Name
Greg
Joined
Mar 30, 2021
Messages
34
Reaction score
30
Location
Dupage County Illinois
Vehicles
19Ecoboost F150,18&20 Ecoboost ExplorerPlatinum,
Occupation
Worker of lead
So what kind of power would that draw? Does that ignition only get triggered when the hot water valve is turned on?
The unit that I typically install (199000 BTU's supports three fixtures continuously, indefinitely) draws 200W (max 2A), but there's a whole host of ascending current draw before that happens:
The call for (hot) water triggers a sail switch, which triggers the exhaust blower, which triggers the gas valve to open, all of these parameters have to "prove" before the spark igniter will trigger; obviously all of this takes place fairly simultaneously and probably doesn't draw the whole 2 amps...The unit that I use is a 110v, 1/2" gas unit...It's possible that some tankless manufacturers still use a "glow" igniter similar to the ones used in clothes' dryers and ovens which would have a higher initial amperage draw. yes to the question of only when the water valve is turned on

apologies in for the lengthy explanation
 
Last edited:

Jack in Prescott

Well-known member
First Name
Jack
Joined
Nov 19, 2020
Messages
104
Reaction score
139
Location
Prescott AZ
Vehicles
2003 Tahoe, 2014 Mazda3
I installed a Progressive Industries AC protection device on our trailer and it includes a digital meter that shows real-time AC amp draw. I also installed a digital Victron battery monitor that shows, among other things, DC amp draw. These two devices give exact measurements of amp draw, AC & DC. Tankless water heaters like our Girard unit require very (very) little DC amp draw at start up; they mostly rely on water pressure and propane to do their job. Most also have a 'monitoring circuit' in case outside temps drop below freezing and the unit needs to 'warm up' itself. These units require very little DC electrical draw from the RV's house bank, so little it's not worth bothering about. The statement "most RV AC units pull over 50 Amps at startup" is bogus. Before I installed a MicroAir unit in my 10K BTU A/C, my Honda generator - with a max 18A sustained AC capability - would start up our Air Conditioner. Our PI unit showed a max AC draw of 16 amps with start-up. (After start-up our 10K unit draws 8-9 amps, not a lot for a trailer supplied with ProPower's 30A supply). Higher BTU rated A/C units will require more amp draw but far less than 50 amps.

Despite doing all the typical RV electrical upgrades (including solar) and having a lot of 'electrical management' capability built into our trailer, I'm convinced that the 30A 120V AC supply from a Powerboost F150 is going to be a real game changer for us. For those of you with bigger RVs that feature dual A/C units, fireplace heaters and the like, maybe a constant 30A AC supply sounds a bit meager and your worried about toaster, microwave, coffee pot and furnace conflicts. Truly those are First World problems. 30 amps is a bountiful supply of AC given how most modern RVs are now equipped and built. If I could only get the damn truck!

Jack
 

diesel97

Well-known member
First Name
rob
Joined
Feb 13, 2021
Messages
60
Reaction score
22
Location
05701
Vehicles
Ford Edge
Occupation
electrical
This is good advice, most RV AC units pull over 50 Amps at startup, the Easy Start drops that to about 15 amps. It's one of the first things I buy for every trailer we've had.
Sorry but 13,500 btu (most common AC)AC unit does not draw 50amps on start up
 

FRED LAPP

New member
First Name
Fred
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Florida
Vehicles
'16 F150, '21 F150 power boost 7.2kw on order
Occupation
OTR/Owner Operator
Does it void warranty? I’d imagine any rv shop can install it?
I don't think so, it was installed by my dealer three months after I bought my AS.
 

imnuts

Well-known member
First Name
Mark
Joined
Mar 1, 2021
Messages
100
Reaction score
56
Location
Dirty Jerz
Vehicles
03 Audi A4
Unless it's wired in series with the system, you likely won't be able to get an accurate reading for start up amps. The surge is too brief for an amp clamp to measure it, and trying to read it with a meter in series will damage the meter as they're typically only good for 10-20A at most.
 

ptricky

New member
Joined
May 5, 2021
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Texas, USA
Vehicles
2021 F-150
Anyone have feedback on this (or similar) adaptor? This is exactly what I have in mind for an upcoming camper rental. Hoping to hear positive things. Since it's a rental I won't know it works until...it works. The plan "B" is to adapt into the 120V-20A outlets like OP did but would rather get it right on the first try :cool: .
 

Advertisement





 


Advertisement
Top