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breimz

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Gotcha, thanks for the intel and wilco. Fingers crossed and ready for some Ford Garage Engineering...
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TylerNinetyTwo

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After removing my air dam actuators I found the two male connectors to plug into the, now exposed, actuator connectors. I also added nine cavity plugs to the wire side of the connectors so dirt/debris doesn't get into the harness. This is the correct OEM way to dead end a harness and for $15 it was definitely worth it. I will include links below to Mouser and TE Connectivity who makes these connectors. If you go through TE Connectivity you can get a free sample of both connectors so you can save a few bucks if you go that route. Here is everything you need:


Ford F-150 Removed Active Air Dam From my F-150 - DIY Writeup Actuator Plug 1.JPG


Ford F-150 Removed Active Air Dam From my F-150 - DIY Writeup Actuator Plug 2.JPG


Ford F-150 Removed Active Air Dam From my F-150 - DIY Writeup Actuator Plug 3.JPG


Ford F-150 Removed Active Air Dam From my F-150 - DIY Writeup Actuator Plug 4.JPG
 
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After removing my air dam actuators I found the two male connectors to plug into the, now exposed, actuator connectors. I also added nine cavity plugs to the wire side of the connectors so dirt/debris doesn't get into the harness. This is the correct OEM way to dead end a harness and for $15 it was definitely worth it. I will include links below to Mouser and TE Connectivity who makes these connectors. If you go through TE Connectivity you can get a free sample of both connectors so you can save a few bucks if you go that route. Here is everything you need:


Actuator Plug 1.JPG


Actuator Plug 2.JPG


Actuator Plug 3.JPG


Actuator Plug 4.JPG
ordering now, thanks for the info!!!
 

FDHog

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After removing my air dam actuators I found the two male connectors to plug into the, now exposed, actuator connectors. I also added nine cavity plugs to the wire side of the connectors so dirt/debris doesn't get into the harness. This is the correct OEM way to dead end a harness and for $15 it was definitely worth it. I will include links below to Mouser and TE Connectivity who makes these connectors. If you go through TE Connectivity you can get a free sample of both connectors so you can save a few bucks if you go that route. Here is everything you need:


Actuator Plug 1.JPG


Actuator Plug 2.JPG


Actuator Plug 3.JPG


Actuator Plug 4.JPG
You're the best!
Was looking for these, but was running into dead ends.
 

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Uncorked

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I am not a fan of the look of the air-dam and I have to admit to still thinking about removing it altogether. But someone suggested that doing so could expose something underneath so I am trying not to obsess about it.
 

FDHog

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I am not a fan of the look of the air-dam and I have to admit to still thinking about removing it altogether. But someone suggested that doing so could expose something underneath so I am trying not to obsess about it.
It's only cheap plastic, so it's not protecting anything. As far as the AAD goes, I'd rather take it off than smash it into something. Can always put it back on. 12 screws.
There's a lot of dumb shit on these trucks for the sake of .5 mpg. Those rear wheel well deflectors are trouble waiting to happen. Catch them on something and you're gonna need bodywork. Cut mine down while waiting on Tremor replacements.
 

powerboatr

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After removing my air dam actuators I found the two male connectors to plug into the, now exposed, actuator connectors. I also added nine cavity plugs to the wire side of the connectors so dirt/debris doesn't get into the harness. This is the correct OEM way to dead end a harness and for $15 it was definitely worth it. I will include links below to Mouser and TE Connectivity who makes these connectors. If you go through TE Connectivity you can get a free sample of both connectors so you can save a few bucks if you go that route. Here is everything you need:


Actuator Plug 1.JPG


Actuator Plug 2.JPG


Actuator Plug 3.JPG


Actuator Plug 4.JPG
did these plugs stop the dtcs tha get set for obstacle detection?
it does not pop up in IPC but does if you run dtc check in forscan or an obd scanner?
i ended up putting the actuators back in to stop the dtcs from showing up.

thanks
 

TylerNinetyTwo

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@powerboatr It does not stop the truck from throwing a silent code. It's just an oem way of keeping the harness clean and protected. I toyed around with removing the "sled" on my actuator motors by drilling out the rivets but I could still see it from the front of my truck because I have the tremor skid plate installed so I don't have the passive air dam to block it from view.
 

powerboatr

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@powerboatr It does not stop the truck from throwing a silent code. It's just an oem way of keeping the harness clean and protected. I toyed around with removing the "sled" on my actuator motors by drilling out the rivets but I could still see it from the front of my truck because I have the tremor skid plate installed so I don't have the passive air dam to block it from view.
thanks
i kept getting the silent codes, but then the obstacle detection started tossing codes. no check lights , just showed up in obd run with forscan, which made no sense, thats why i put them back in.
might try to caps
thanks for the info
now i keep getting camera error even though they work perfect.

my actuators are hidden, but the lower corner of my front hitch peers out a smidge, which will be sort of protection for the lca :eek:
 

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TylerNinetyTwo

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thanks
i kept getting the silent codes, but then the obstacle detection started tossing codes. no check lights , just showed up in obd run with forscan, which made no sense, thats why i put them back in.
might try to caps
thanks for the info
now i keep getting camera error even though they work perfect.

my actuators are hidden, but the lower corner of my front hitch peers out a smidge, which will be sort of protection for the lca :eek:
I have a very basic truck. It's a xl regular cab without any of the fancy stuff your truck has so apparently it's run off the same harness/circuit? I honestly would just leave the actuators but remove the sled.
 

FDHog

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What's the big deal about throwing DTC codes? You only know they're there if you hook up a scan tool.
I'm removing mine this week and gonna see if I can come up with a way of relocating them or just keeping the motor connected.
 

Carbonized5.0

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Daylight photos.

Before:
20210307_140206.jpg


After:
20210308_115125.jpg


Few more:
20210308_115135.jpg
20210308_115304.jpg
20210308_115510.jpg


Also removed the wind deflectors on the front of the rear wheel wells (as they would just get ripped off too.) They leave an unsightly hole in the side of the fender. Will need to find or fab a trim piece for that.

And I also removed the running boards because I'll be putting some low profile rock rails on as soon as they are available or fabbing my own.
side note -- not sure if this is too late to mention, but I just removed my active air dam and trimmed the static part of the air dam to the hard plastic piece. one thing I noticed is the bolts for the control arms are exposed to anything coming from down the road. living up in Michigan, I plan on figuring out how to protect those bolts (maybe a rust-resistant paint)
 

FDHog

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Got my terminating plugs today. Little bit of dielectric grease on the plugs and I'm good to go.
Thanks again Tyler92
 

dc3843

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Doing this this weekend, I have a bit of a different reason for doing it. I have a Saleen sport truck and it’s LOW. This air damn when deployed bottoms out when I hit large bumps and it causes a chain reaction with everything it’s connected to. The shockwave has actually cracked a set of the fender flares that come on the truck. Pain in the ass so want to remove the damn. Don’t want codes though, so maybe I’ll do what everyone is saying and just remove the sled.
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