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imnuts

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One of the early PowerUp 2.x updates enabled the multi-day selection for the update schedule. It sounds like your truck is missing some module updates besides the TRM recall software.
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UGADawg96

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One of the early PowerUp 2.x updates enabled the multi-day selection for the update schedule. It sounds like your truck is missing some module updates besides the TRM recall software.
Maybe I need someone with a FDRS license to check my VIN ?
 

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I had the recall software done by the dealer and he made it sound like it was all good to go and done. Long story short, towing my trailer to camp resulted in 2 instances in trailer brake loss, both near miss accidents. I couldn't figure out what was going wrong. 3 days later the OTA software hit my truck. Smooth sailing since then.
 

{tpc}

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I had the recall software done by the dealer and he made it sound like it was all good to go and done. Long story short, towing my trailer to camp resulted in 2 instances in trailer brake loss, both near miss accidents. I couldn't figure out what was going wrong. 3 days later the OTA software hit my truck. Smooth sailing since then.
So what happened that you determined the trailer brakes failed? Did an alert pop up on the dash? Or you just had an incident where you expected the trailer to lock them up and it didn’t?

According to the way ford asks you to adjust the gain (set it till they lock up, than back the setting down 1 adjustment), it seems like you could have an incident where they were working but perceived as them not working?

I’m not saying this is the case, but am truly wondering so I know what to pay attention to.
 

UGADawg96

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So what happened that you determined the trailer brakes failed? Did an alert pop up on the dash? Or you just had an incident where you expected the trailer to lock them up and it didn’t?

According to the way ford asks you to adjust the gain (set it till they lock up, than back the setting down 1 adjustment), it seems like you could have an incident where they were working but perceived as them not working?

I’m not saying this is the case, but am truly wondering so I know what to pay attention to.
interesting... I've always set the gain to match the trailer weight... ex. 6.5 for a 6500lb TT.... it seems to work without any issues.... have I been doing that wrong ?
 

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interesting... I've always set the gain to match the trailer weight... ex. 6.5 for a 6500lb TT.... it seems to work without any issues.... have I been doing that wrong ?
Well I think everyone has their own way, but the way I’ve described I’ve also seen in my tekonsha p3 manual when I had that with a different truck.

From ford:


USING THE INTEGRATED TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER

  1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning normally and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if necessary.
Note: An authorized dealer can diagnose the trailer brake controller to determine exactly which trailer fault has occurred. Your vehicle warranty does not cover issues with your trailer.
  1. Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to the trailer manufacturer's instructions.
Note: Select default mode if the trailer has surge brakes, or no brakes at all. The system has no effect on the braking performance of the trailer in either of these cases.
Note: If a trailer is connected by a four-pin connector, the trailer braking function will not be supported.
  1. When you plug in a trailer with electric or electric-over-hydraulic brakes, a message confirming connection appears in the information display.
  1. Use the gain adjustment to find the desired starting point. A gain setting of 6.0 is a good starting point for heavier loads.
Note: Use the following steps to adjust the gain setting whenever road, weather and trailer, or vehicle loading conditions, change from when you initially set the gain.
  1. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface and squeeze the manual control lever completely.
  1. If the trailer wheels lock up, indicated by squealing tires, reduce the gain setting. If the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the gain setting. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the gain setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lock-up. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lock-up may not be attainable even with the maximum gain setting of 10.
Note: Only perform this procedure at speeds of approximately 30–40 km/h.
Note: The trailer brake controller reduces output at vehicle speeds below 18 km/h so that trailer and vehicle braking is not jerky or harsh. This feature is only available when applying the brakes using your vehicle's brake pedal, not the controller.
Note: Your vehicle's brake system and the trailer brake system work independently of each other. Changing the gain setting on the controller does not affect the operation of your vehicle's brakes whether you attach a trailer or not.
Note: With the proper electrical connection, pressing your vehicle brake pedal or using the manual control lever illuminates both trailer and vehicle brake lamps.
Note: When you switch the engine off, the controller output is disabled and the display and module shut down. The controller module and display turn on when you switch the ignition on.
 

UGADawg96

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Well I think everyone has their own way, but the way I’ve described I’ve also seen in my tekonsha p3 manual when I had that with a different truck.

From ford:


USING THE INTEGRATED TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER

  1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning normally and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if necessary.
Note: An authorized dealer can diagnose the trailer brake controller to determine exactly which trailer fault has occurred. Your vehicle warranty does not cover issues with your trailer.
  1. Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to the trailer manufacturer's instructions.
Note: Select default mode if the trailer has surge brakes, or no brakes at all. The system has no effect on the braking performance of the trailer in either of these cases.
Note: If a trailer is connected by a four-pin connector, the trailer braking function will not be supported.
  1. When you plug in a trailer with electric or electric-over-hydraulic brakes, a message confirming connection appears in the information display.
  2. Use the gain adjustment to find the desired starting point. A gain setting of 6.0 is a good starting point for heavier loads.
Note: Use the following steps to adjust the gain setting whenever road, weather and trailer, or vehicle loading conditions, change from when you initially set the gain.
  1. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface and squeeze the manual control lever completely.
  2. If the trailer wheels lock up, indicated by squealing tires, reduce the gain setting. If the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the gain setting. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until the gain setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lock-up. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lock-up may not be attainable even with the maximum gain setting of 10.
Note: Only perform this procedure at speeds of approximately 30–40 km/h.
Note: The trailer brake controller reduces output at vehicle speeds below 18 km/h so that trailer and vehicle braking is not jerky or harsh. This feature is only available when applying the brakes using your vehicle's brake pedal, not the controller.
Note: Your vehicle's brake system and the trailer brake system work independently of each other. Changing the gain setting on the controller does not affect the operation of your vehicle's brakes whether you attach a trailer or not.
Note: With the proper electrical connection, pressing your vehicle brake pedal or using the manual control lever illuminates both trailer and vehicle brake lamps.
Note: When you switch the engine off, the controller output is disabled and the display and module shut down. The controller module and display turn on when you switch the ignition on.
With the settings I've used, when rolling from a stop and squeezing the lever, it completely stops both vehicles. Those instructions make it sound like the lever shouldn't stop them.
 

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With the settings I've used, when rolling from a stop and squeezing the lever, it completely stops both vehicles. Those instructions make it sound like the lever shouldn't stop them.
Rolling from a stop and squeezing the lever is much different than traveling 20 mph and squeezing the lever. If your rolling along at 5 mph, squeezing the lever even on a lower gain setting may have the effect of stopping both truck/trailer.

In my experience, I can do exactly what the instructions say to do, so thats how I do it. What I think they are getting at is you don't want the trailer to lock the wheels and slide, you want a more controlled slowing down. Squeezing the manual lever should be the same as mashing the brakes full, max gain (of the setting you provided). Of course I am guessing at 60 mph if you mash the brakes full stop, everything is sliding and smoking. But you don't want that same reaction at 20 mph. so I think thats why you adjust it in that manner?

But I know I've seen the same method carried over from my aftermarket to the integrated brake controller.
 

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Rolling from a stop and squeezing the lever is much different than traveling 20 mph and squeezing the lever. If your rolling along at 5 mph, squeezing the lever even on a lower gain setting may have the effect of stopping both truck/trailer.

In my experience, I can do exactly what the instructions say to do, so thats how I do it. What I think they are getting at is you don't want the trailer to lock the wheels and slide, you want a more controlled slowing down. Squeezing the manual lever should be the same as mashing the brakes full, max gain (of the setting you provided). Of course I am guessing at 60 mph if you mash the brakes full stop, everything is sliding and smoking. But you don't want that same reaction at 20 mph. so I think thats why you adjust it in that manner?

But I know I've seen the same method carried over from my aftermarket to the integrated brake controller.
ah ok... I think since I feel full control with the current gain at all speeds, I'll probably leave it as-is.
 

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ah ok... I think since I feel full control with the current gain at all speeds, I'll probably leave it as-is.
For what its worth, using your example of a 6500 lb trailer (which mine is), my gain is 8.5. I've never used the control while going slow so I can't comment on if it would stop both. At 20 mph, 9.0 locks the trailer tires, at 8.5 it does not.

Really the only time I manually use the control is the rare instance of sway where maybe i don't want to hit the truck brakes for some reason, but I want to get the trailer back in line. In that case sometimes a gentle squeeze (never a full squeeze) is enough to slightly apply the trailer brakes and get everything tracking smooth again. But with my latest trailer and hitch its been a long time since I needed to do that.
 

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UGADawg96

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For what its worth, using your example of a 6500 lb trailer (which mine is), my gain is 8.5. I've never used the control while going slow so I can't comment on if it would stop both. At 20 mph, 9.0 locks the trailer tires, at 8.5 it does not.

Really the only time I manually use the control is the rare instance of sway where maybe i don't want to hit the truck brakes for some reason, but I want to get the trailer back in line. In that case sometimes a gentle squeeze (never a full squeeze) is enough to slightly apply the trailer brakes and get everything tracking smooth again. But with my latest trailer and hitch its been a long time since I needed to do that.
Good to know. Yeah, with my 6500 TT set at 6.5, I've never felt it push me when pressing the brake pedal. Never really thought about taking up to a higher number like 7 or 8 or more, but good to know it could be done. Thanks!
 

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Good to know. Yeah, with my 6500 TT set at 6.5, I've never felt it push me when pressing the brake pedal. Never really thought about taking up to a higher number like 7 or 8 or more, but good to know it could be done. Thanks!
:) Occasionally I'll feel a little tug of the trailer trying to slow the truck down, but its rare and often in times of a quick braking action I wasn't expecting to do. Light turns red suddenly, traffic slows down quicker than I thought...that sort of thing. Normally I don't feel much either. I feel that I know its working because I give a manual squeeze leaving my storage area. But thats on crushed gravel, so even the lightest touch seems to drag the tires.

Which is why I was inquiring about how one knows if the TBC isn't working. I guess at speed (65 mph) if you had a sudden braking occurrence, it might jump out at you that it isn't working.
 

UGADawg96

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:) Occasionally I'll feel a little tug of the trailer trying to slow the truck down, but its rare and often in times of a quick braking action I wasn't expecting to do. Light turns red suddenly, traffic slows down quicker than I thought...that sort of thing. Normally I don't feel much either. I feel that I know its working because I give a manual squeeze leaving my storage area. But thats on crushed gravel, so even the lightest touch seems to drag the tires.

Which is why I was inquiring about how one knows if the TBC isn't working. I guess at speed (65 mph) if you had a sudden braking occurrence, it might jump out at you that it isn't working.
For me to know at the times it wasn't working was due to the pop up on the dash saying no trailer when it was clearly connected in the center stack and the lights were running on it, indicating a software issue.
 

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Just got a letter from Ford stating this recall is now available via OTA. It suggests selecting multiple days, but I cannot get it to select more than one day from the center stack. After a day is selected, if I select a second day, it replaces it, it doesn't add it. Anyone have luck selecting multiple days ? When I manually check for updates, it says it now has 2.8.2, but it never told me it was going to install nor did it notify me when it did. I've been in I.S./I.T. for over 20 years. With this type of user experience, it is almost like Ford hired people that have never worked in technology. But if it eventually does work to fix this issue, then it would be nice to not have to go to the dealer.

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I have my truck set to receive any OTA. Set for 1 AM 7 days a week. Unfortunately, I have yet to receive any OTA down loads.

I got the trailer brake recall done by taking the truck to the dealer.
 
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My recall is no longer showing up in my dashboard, but I am scheduled to have the recall done in 2 weeks.
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