Rear passenger window won’t roll up anymore

[Omaloney1980]

So this happened to me as well and I was able to piece together a solution after hours of Googling and watching some helpful videos. I hope the below instructions can be helpful if you run into it or are still driving around with a taped up window.

To roll the window back up and have a temporary solution until you can get the master switch replaced you need to remove the affected door panel, jump the window motor, disable the window motor, reassemble the door panel, get your truck fixed.

To remove your door panel, you need a 7mm socket (9/32 will work in a pinch), a flathead screwdriver, and some sort of plastic pry tool (plastic spackle scrapers are great). This video helped me:

1. Remove the plastic cover from under the interior door handle using the plastic pry tool
2. Remove the red reflector using your flathead screwdriver
3. Remove the 5 screws (2 under the door handle, 1 behind the red reflector, 2 at the bottom)
4. Pull the door panel off
5. Disconnect the pin harnesses
6. Peel the plastic back covering the two holes in the door

To jump the window motor, you should use a multimeter to determine the wire set up (but I can tell you the configuration here) and have either a) spare wire to create the connection or b) paperclips wrapped in electric tape (so you don't get shocked). I used this video: and this post about the wiring diagram: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=146917
to figure out the configuration.

1. Make sure your truck is on or or running acc
2. With the pin harnesses disconnected, take the green 8 pin that connects to the window switch
3. Using your wire (or paper clips) connect the row of larger wires to each other
   1. I don't recall the colors exactly but the wires do not overlap and should just plug into the next one over (should look like an M when done)
   2. The black and yellow connects to the one next to it (can't recall if it is gray or white/violet)--same thing other side
4. Window should roll up completely

With the window now rolled up, disconnect the window motor so it doesn't accidentally roll down again.

1. Reach into the window interior (mine was extremely warm and I needed gloves to not get burned disconnecting)
2. Find the pin harness connected to the window motor
3. Pinch the tab that secures it in place
4. Pull it out
5. Leave it unplugged

Now, just reassemble your door panel and boom--temporarily fixed. I left the switch and motor unplugged for good measure but not sure if you need them both unplugged if you have the motor unplugged

First time took me an hour since I had to figure out the wiring configuration and I tried to do this at the master switch but that was silly. Second time (after the window rolled down because I didn't disconnect the motor) it took me five minutes.

Hope that helps!

Micah

Thank you! THis worked perfectly! I had the same issue, and all the dealers in my area told me they couldn't do anything, except put plastic over my window, for the next two weeks! I found this post, gave it a shot myself, used a couple pieces of leftover wire from some wall switches to create the "M", and voila! Perfect!

Great Help!
Ryan

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[Jimko]

So this happened to me as well and I was able to piece together a solution after hours of Googling and watching some helpful videos. I hope the below instructions can be helpful if you run into it or are still driving around with a taped up window.

To roll the window back up and have a temporary solution until you can get the master switch replaced you need to remove the affected door panel, jump the window motor, disable the window motor, reassemble the door panel, get your truck fixed.

To remove your door panel, you need a 7mm socket (9/32 will work in a pinch), a flathead screwdriver, and some sort of plastic pry tool (plastic spackle scrapers are great). This video helped me:

1. Remove the plastic cover from under the interior door handle using the plastic pry tool
2. Remove the red reflector using your flathead screwdriver
3. Remove the 5 screws (2 under the door handle, 1 behind the red reflector, 2 at the bottom)
4. Pull the door panel off
5. Disconnect the pin harnesses
6. Peel the plastic back covering the two holes in the door

To jump the window motor, you should use a multimeter to determine the wire set up (but I can tell you the configuration here) and have either a) spare wire to create the connection or b) paperclips wrapped in electric tape (so you don't get shocked). I used this video: and this post about the wiring diagram: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=146917
to figure out the configuration.

1. Make sure your truck is on or or running acc
2. With the pin harnesses disconnected, take the green 8 pin that connects to the window switch
3. Using your wire (or paper clips) connect the row of larger wires to each other
   1. I don't recall the colors exactly but the wires do not overlap and should just plug into the next one over (should look like an M when done)
   2. The black and yellow connects to the one next to it (can't recall if it is gray or white/violet)--same thing other side
4. Window should roll up completely

With the window now rolled up, disconnect the window motor so it doesn't accidentally roll down again.

1. Reach into the window interior (mine was extremely warm and I needed gloves to not get burned disconnecting)
2. Find the pin harness connected to the window motor
3. Pinch the tab that secures it in place
4. Pull it out
5. Leave it unplugged

Now, just reassemble your door panel and boom--temporarily fixed. I left the switch and motor unplugged for good measure but not sure if you need them both unplugged if you have the motor unplugged

First time took me an hour since I had to figure out the wiring configuration and I tried to do this at the master switch but that was silly. Second time (after the window rolled down because I didn't disconnect the motor) it took me five minutes.

Hope that helps!

Micah

Thank you for this. This issue just happened to me on the way into work this morning.

The jump worked like a champ. I noticed, for me, as long as I left the rear passenger door window switch unplugged - the window stays up with the master switch plugged in. Off to the dealer in two weeks.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Thank you for this. This issue just happened to me on the way into work this morning.

The jump worked like a champ. I noticed, for me, as long as I left the rear passenger door window switch unplugged - the window stays up with the master switch plugged in. Off to the dealer in two weeks.

Hi there! Will you send us a message with your VIN and your local Ford dealer? I can look into things on my end.

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