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Questionable dealer warranty service

Bryan Simon

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Bryan
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San Antonio, Texas
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65 Ranchero, 66 ElCamino, 05 Ranger, and more
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Maintenance
Just to be clear upfront, neither on of the Ford pickups I purchased new were regularly serviced by them. Mostly due to distance and time.
About 13 years ago, I took my little Ranger in for some goofy brake work.
I suggested that it had a stuck caliper
Well since brake linings are not warranted forever, I was charged for rotor turning, and new pads.
Within a couple of weeks, the same problem reared it’s head.
back to the dealer, and they actually charged me for turning drums and new shoes.
And the claimed it was my driving habits hah hah hah.
shortly after that, I took a trip in the pickup and the brake issue reared it’s head once again in a somewhat panic braking episode on the freeway in New Mexico.
It felt like the taillights would vibrate right out of the truck.
continue on to Vegas, and promptly took it to a Lincoln dealer.
(was in Vegas for Dad’s funeral services)
Lincoln dealer calls me after services and tells me:
New Rotors, calipers, pads, shoes, drums. No charge.
Root issue—stuck left front caliper
Thats 3 brake jobs in the first 30,000 miles, charged for two, and I called “stuck caliper”
Never went back to that dealer for service—-until—-two weeks ago.
been nearly 15 yrs, I’ll try again.

21 f150 v8
2 recall notices that need to be cleared—-no action needed but to touch and clear.
Also, Auto Start/Stop quit working about 3 months ago, and I have since had issues with the truck going into a deep sleep overnight.
Many here have suggested ‘battery’. Makes sense to me.
Monitor battery voltage every morning for two weeks ( driven daily)
High morning reading of 12.33—-low morning reading 12.00—-undercharged to say the least.————Truck idling—13.8–still too low. Should be seeing OVER 14vdc with engine running and all accessories off.
Leads me to Battery or Alternator
SO
Dealer service guy tells me there is an engine miss at idle not throwing codes.
This is (supposedly) causing the Start/Stop not to work.
A week waiting for cam phasers—he texted today that they are here.
Not really sure I am buying the diagnosis.
he did text a pic of the battery charge and state (AFTER spending 90 minutes on Charger)
(I could see that on the page he sent with my vin). 12.7. Still not FULLY charged.

My feelings are that the charging system is not holding where it needs to be.
truck was running just fine, smooth as silk while at a light without a hint of a miss that I can feel in my ass.

Anyone else got an opinion?
There is still another dealer not too far away I have been more than happy with.
Just inconvenient getting back home——but still closer than selling dealer.
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PPK

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PPK
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OKC
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2022 F150 502A, 1947 CJ2A, WK2 Limited
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Engineer
it is not feasible to fully charge an AGM battery in 90 minutes. if SOC (state of charge) is 20% or so.. it would take hours.. unless you got the battery hot and wrecked it.. Maybe 8-10 hours. You can only charge the AGMs until they get warm.. maybe a constant 5 Amps or so for 12 hours would get you back.. a good tech would know this.. hang in there.
 

Buyer2021

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TX
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2022 Lariat SuperCab and 2005 XLT SuperCab
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retired!
First, IF you now drop dealer 1 and go to dealer 2 you need to be totally up-front about what dealer 1 has done so dealer 2 can see what, if any, administrative / cost reimbursement issues that may create for them IF they pick-up / take-over the warranty service started by another dealer. IMO it would be unfair / disingenuous on your part to let dealer 2 take-in your truck for even diagnostics without making clear that it has been to dealer 1, they've ordered and received parts, and the warranty claim may still be 'open' at that dealer; give dealer 2 the whole truthful story and tell them why you are there instead of still at dealer 1. If they agree to run with your case, swell; if they decline, accept and respect that.

IMO bottom line you're expressing concern about the competence of dealer 1 and are asking if you should switch to dealer 2.

IMO only you can know if your 'gut feel' lack confidence in dealer 1 competence outweighs the transportation inconvenience of switching to dealer 2 (assuming they'll take it given diagnostic work already done on the warranty claim).

Ask yourself how you feel about dealer 1 tearing into your engine to do the cam phaser R&R; do you trust them to not screw that up or leave you with other unintended consequences?

IMO no-one on a forum can competently diagnose your truck problem from afar and no one but you can judge your dealer situation.

Good luck.
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