Pro Power Onboard Generator 7.2K Powering a Trailer While Driving -- IT WORKS!

[PowerBoostXLT]

Thanks Eric! Great details! I’ve just been using an adaptor thats a male L4-30 to female 30a RV plug. But don’t use it for driving. im pretty sure our fridge uses the power from the 7pin thus not using propane. Now I want to check and be sure lol

Sponsored

 

[EricR]

@PowerBoostXLT

We used that same adapter as well - until I finished this install. It works great!

Some of the newer/higher-end RV refrigerators will run on 12 Volts, in addition to the typical 120 Volts & propane. Unfortunately, our is not one of those. ?

-Eric

 

[SouthParkCo2]

I need some guidance on this subject.
The Pro Power generator, be it the 7.2 or 2.4 KW will provide a continuous source
of 12vdc charge to the camper batteries when it's on and powering the camper converter/inverter [I believe] .
And simultaneously, the 7 pin trailer connector is also providing a continuous 12vdc charge to the camper batteries.
Is there any danger to the circuitry of the camper or the F150 or to the batteries themselves when these two sources are active?
Or can they coexist with no side effects what so ever?
Or is there some switching of charging circuitry that happens and protects everything??
Help me Obi Wan ...

 

[EricR]

I need some guidance on this subject.
The Pro Power generator, be it the 7.2 or 2.4 KW will provide a continuous source
of 12vdc charge to the camper batteries when it's on and powering the camper converter/inverter [I believe] .
And simultaneously, the 7 pin trailer connector is also providing a continuous 12vdc charge to the camper batteries.
Is there any danger to the circuitry of the camper or the F150 or to the batteries themselves when these two sources are active?
Or can they coexist with no side effects what so ever?
Or is there some switching of charging circuitry that happens and protects everything??
Help me Obi Wan ...

The Star Wars reference is REALLY appreciated but I have to start out by saying I am no expert and learning myself.

What you speak of bugged me too, and my plan was to disconnect the 12V wire coming from the 7-pin connector.

Then I received some great feedback over at diysolarforum.com that lead me install a small, separate breakaway battery that mounts on the tongue/frame:

Hopkins 20109 Engager SM Boxed Less Switch​

When installing the breakaway battery, it is wired up to the trailer brakes at the trailer's junction box (shown below). So while doing this I just disconnected the 7-pin 12V wire from inside the junction box and rerouted it to the charge wire of the breakaway battery.

So now our trailer's 7-pin 12V wire is no longer connected to the trailer's 12V system - in any way. Instead, it is only connected the breakaway battery.

AFAIK, if you don't want to add a breakaway battery I don't see why you couldn't just:

• Remove the junction box cover
• disconnect the 7-pin 12V wire from the 12V post
• Put a wire nut on it
• Replace the junction box cover

However, I'm convinced the breakaway battery is a good idea and cheap insurance (currently $35 at Amazon).

It might be helpful to read this thread at diysolarforum for the parts that discuss the breakaway battery. FYI, one of the guys calls it a Ken & Barbie battery.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/please-check-ready-to-start-building-this-design.28587/​

The silver box in this picture is my trailer's junction box. Though newer ones can be rectangular black plastic. It's kind of hard to see in the picture, but the thick cable from the 7-pin routes through that hole in the front frame member to inside the junction box. It's the one with all of the white wires zip-tied to it.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Eric

PS - Again, I'm no expert so use my advice at your own risk!

 

[SouthParkCo2]

The Star Wars reference is REALLY appreciated but I have to start out by saying I am no expert and learning myself.

What you speak of bugged me too, and my plan was to disconnect the 12V wire coming from the 7-pin connector.

Then I received some great feedback over at diysolarforum.com that lead me install a small, separate breakaway battery that mounts on the tongue/frame:

Hopkins 20109 Engager SM Boxed Less Switch​

When installing the breakaway battery, it is wired up to the trailer brakes at the trailer's junction box (shown below). So while doing this I just disconnected the 7-pin 12V wire from inside the junction box and rerouted it to the charge wire of the breakaway battery.

So now our trailer's 7-pin 12V wire is no longer connected to the trailer's 12V system - in any way. Instead, it is only connected the breakaway battery.

AFAIK, if you don't want to add a breakaway battery I don't see why you couldn't just:

• Remove the junction box cover
• disconnect the 7-pin 12V wire from the 12V post
• Put a wire nut on it
• Replace the junction box cover

However, I'm convinced the breakaway battery is a good idea and cheap insurance (currently $35 at Amazon).

It might be helpful to read this thread at diysolarforum for the parts that discuss the breakaway battery. FYI, one of the guys calls it a Ken & Barbie battery.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/please-check-ready-to-start-building-this-design.28587/​

The silver box in this picture is my trailer's junction box. Though newer ones can be rectangular black plastic. It's kind of hard to see in the picture, but the thick cable from the 7-pin routes through that hole in the front frame member to inside the junction box. It's the one with all of the white wires zip-tied to it.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Eric

PS - Again, I'm no expert so use my advice at your own risk!

Thanks for the info and input!
It got me to thinking that I could do/try something with a relay
to isolate the truck 7-pin 12vdc when shore power is connected [from whatever source].
I put this wiring diagram together to do just that. And now I'm thinking I
could simplify it some more by grabbing/stealing 12vdc from the camper inverter
[from somewhere] and using it to run the isolation relay..
When the inverter is connected to shore power, the truck 12vdc is disconnected
[in my theoretical system]

I'm thinking a relay like this may do the trick ... https://www.amazon.com/Ehdis-Truck-...50&sprefix=10+guage+relays,aps,87&sr=8-2&th=1

So, if I get it done and it works, I'll post it here ....
If not, I'll slink away like a beaten dog....

 

[EricR]

Thanks for the info and input!
It got me to thinking that I could do/try something with a relay
to isolate the truck 7-pin 12vdc when shore power is connected [from whatever source].
I put this wiring diagram together to do just that. And now I'm thinking I
could simplify it some more by grabbing/stealing 12vdc from the camper inverter
[from somewhere] and using it to run the isolation relay..
When the inverter is connected to shore power, the truck 12vdc is disconnected
[in my theoretical system]

I'm thinking a relay like this may do the trick ... https://www.amazon.com/Ehdis-Truck-Normally-Socket-Automotive/dp/B01KFKEFZA/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3TED744CK9FR2&keywords=12v+relay+10+gauge&qid=1649942650&sprefix=10+guage+relays,aps,87&sr=8-2&th=1

So, if I get it done and it works, I'll post it here ....
If not, I'll slink away like a beaten dog....

Am I wrong to assume you are planning to use Pro Power on Board to power your trailer while driving?

-Eric

 

[SouthParkCo2]

Am I wrong to assume you are planning to use Pro Power on Board to power your trailer while driving?

-Eric

That's my desire/hope. I only have the 2.4KW system [thank you again Ford for f'n up my order].
But our camper is small, a 2016 Starcraft AR-One 16B, so the needs are pretty light.
However, we are taking the Alaska trip from Central Colorado up the Alcan Highway to the Kenai and it's a 3 and 1/2 month round trip, as we have it planned.

 

[EricR]

That's my desire/hope. I only have the 2.4KW system [thank you again Ford for f'n up my order].
But our camper is small, a 2016 Starcraft AR-One 16B, so the needs are pretty light.
However, we are taking the Alaska trip from Central Colorado up the Alcan Highway to the Kenai and it's a 3 and 1/2 month round trip, as we have it planned.

Cool. I think you will find it is well worth the effort to connect to the with Pro Power on Board while going down the road. It's great to not carry a generator anymore and to always arrive with fully charged batteries!

Frustrating they messed up your order.

Thankfully the 2.4kW should be up to the job. I'm using a 60 Amp charger and it only pulls between 1.6-1.8kW. The A/C in our Lance 2185 pulls about 1.5-1.6kW (it did come with the soft start feature).

Do you need to retain the 7-pin 12V charge connection? You mention using "a relay to isolate the truck 7-pin 12vdc when shore power is connected". Maybe (probably) I'm missing something, but I'm not seeing any benefit of this over just disconnecting the 7-pin 12V line. Surely with 120V from the PPoB, the trailer's converter will charge your batteries much faster than the old-school 7-pin connection from the truck.

Your planned trip sounds awesome, BTW! Be sure to post some pictures when you get back!

-Eric

A semi-off-topic thought for you and others who might read this thread:

Most converters installed in trailers are built on the cheap and are a potential failure point (or so I have read). For long trips it might be worth considering :

• Bringing a separate standalone battery charger (and an extension cord if batteries are not up front) as a back-up so you don't end up without power.

This is the standalone battery charger I keep in our trailer as a back-up, and it works really well.​

Victron Energy Blue Smart IP65 12-Volt 15 amp Battery Charger (Bluetooth)​

• Or you could replace your converter with a better (& more powerful) charger to feed your batteries. [and even leave the converter in place - disconnected from 120V - as a back-up to the new charger].

This is the charger I put in my trailer to replace the converter. At 60 Amps it can charge my two 12V Lithium batteries from very low to full in 4 hours! It works with lead-acid and gel batteries as well. They also make 20A & 40A models for less money.​

KISAE AC1260 Abso 60A, 12V Battery Charger​

​

Victron makes mounted chargers as well. Their products are very high quality, albeit at corresponding price points.​

 

[SouthParkCo2]

Cool. I think you will find it is well worth the effort to connect to the with Pro Power on Board while going down the road. It's great to not carry a generator anymore and to always arrive with fully charged batteries!


Thankfully the 2.4kW should be up to the job. I'm using a 60 Amp charger and it only pulls between 1.6-1.8kW. The A/C in our Lance 2185 pulls about 1.5-1.6kW (it did come with the soft start feature).

Do you need to retain the 7-pin 12V charge connection? You mention using "a relay to isolate the truck 7-pin 12vdc when shore power is connected". Maybe (probably) I'm missing something, but I'm not seeing any benefit of this over just disconnecting the 7-pin 12V line. Surely with 120V from the PPoB, the trailer's converter will charge your batteries much faster than the old-school 7-pin connection from the truck.

Your planned trip sounds awesome, BTW! Be sure to post some pictures when you get back!

-Eric

Thanks Eric,

So I posed this question, similarly, on a Facebook site called RVing Tips. Because why not and
I was wondering if I was overthinking/worried about almost nothing [a mole hill].

facebook.com/groups/RVingTips/posts/3138722399673431/

One gentleman did reply, saying " Both sources of charging should not be an issue". His profile includes experience as an installer of RV solar systems, batteries, converters, inverters, generators, etc. So at this point, while I have the materials and parts I need to do some sort of isolation setup, I'm going to go "as is" and be that guy [Alfred E. Neuman].

I'm now thinking, as you recommended, that taking a battery charger along "IS" a good idea
and I do have a one [2-15-110 Amp @ 6/12 volt] that will travel nicely enough.

I'm still mentally debating about including my 2200 watt generator, because I always like backup options for the unforeseen. On paper the PPoB is the cats meow, but ......... I have miles to go before I trust it completely.

-Dale

 

[EricR]

Thanks Eric,

So I posed this question, similarly, on a Facebook site called RVing Tips. Because why not and
I was wondering if I was overthinking/worried about almost nothing [a mole hill].

facebook.com/groups/RVingTips/posts/3138722399673431/

One gentleman did reply, saying " Both sources of charging should not be an issue". His profile includes experience as an installer of RV solar systems, batteries, converters, inverters, generators, etc. So at this point, while I have the materials and parts I need to do some sort of isolation setup, I'm going to go "as is" and be that guy [Alfred E. Neuman].

I'm now thinking, as you recommended, that taking a battery charger along "IS" a good idea
and I do have a one [2-15-110 Amp @ 6/12 volt] that will travel nicely enough.

I'm still mentally debating about including my 2200 watt generator, because I always like backup options for the unforeseen. On paper the PPoB is the cats meow, but ......... I have miles to go before I trust it completely.

-Dale

Hey Dale,

OK, what they guy on Facebook says kind of makes sense. I'm sure people have had their 7-pin connector hooked-up while also connected to RV park shore power. RV's with roof-top solar are likely charging from the solar panels and 7-pin at the same time as well.

Also, I just realized I've just assumed the 2.4kW PPoP is functional while driving because the 7.2kW does this. Have you checked this out for sure?

-Eric

 

[SouthParkCo2]

Hey Dale,

OK, what they guy on Facebook says kind of makes sense. I'm sure people have had their 7-pin connector hooked-up while also connected to RV park shore power. RV's with roof-top solar are likely charging from the solar panels and 7-pin at the same time as well.

Also, I just realized I've just assumed the 2.4kW PPoP is functional while driving because the 7.2kW does this. Have you checked this out for sure?

-Eric

Sir,
So I did a 20 mile test run a couple days ago with 7pin and PPoB active.
And once I acknowledged all the warning screens, everything works as I had hoped.
I didn't push it [I should have] as the load I was seeing was only 200-400 watts.
Anyway, I do have pretty have high hopes at this point.
Later,
-Dale

 

[turbopilot]

I have also configured my 2021 PowerBoost with 7.2 kw ProPower Onboard to provide full electrical power to an Airstream trailer while in motion. This from my post on the Airstream forum.

Now on the home stretch of this Electric GlobeTrotter conversion. For the last few weeks I have been researching the feasibility of towing the GT with full 7.2kw electricity available to the trailer. The main concern I had was maintaining a water proof connection from the F-150 inverter back to the trailer. Since the only access to the 110 volt system was via the 50 amp connector on the aft driver's side of the trailer it was clear a second connection was needed to feed the F-150 ProPower output to the Victron MultiPlus in the trailer.

My solution was to run a 4 wire, 30 amp cable from the front hitch back to a Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch near the 50 amp plug input.

At the hitch the 30 amp cable joined with the 7 pin connector then over to connect with the truck. The F-150 ProPower Panel is on the driver's side aft bed wall which is not a convenient place to hook up the 30 amp cable while under power. I found an existing hole in the bed that was larger than the 30 amp cable so I was able pass the cable down the bed support behind the rear bumper.

To make the connection between the trailer and the truck I sourced waterproof NEMA L14-30 connectors (Molex Woodhead 28W74 and 29W74. These connectors are not easy to find.

Here is how it looks with all three cables from the trailer plugged into the F-150 PowerBoost. Ran some tests cycling through AC sources in the trailer and all seems to work. The 30 amp cable is about the same diameter as the 7 pin cable. I have some extra cable coiled up on the hitch so that I can park the F-150 away from the trailer while camping but still maintain a connection to the truck.

 

[UGADawg96]

My solution was to run a 4 wire, 30 amp cable from the front hitch back to a Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch near the 50 amp plug input.

Instead of fulling disconnecting the trailer's factory power input for the new power cable from the truck or using a transfer switch, any reason the two power inputs couldn't just be in parallel so either can work at any time ? The only issue would be if someone brain farted and tried to supply power from shore and the truck to both at the same time ?

Our TT has the power input on the back wall which works great when we power up at camp sites or our house. However, when we store it, I have to break out the 25' extension. Having an input at the tongue would be great for not just powering from the truck, but also when powering up in storage.

It doesn't look like 30 amp transfer switches are that expensive, I'd just have to find a place to put it if I went that route, which I think I'd prefer over disconnecting the factory input.

 

[turbopilot]

Instead of fulling disconnecting the trailer's factory power input for the new power cable from the truck or using a transfer switch, any reason the two power inputs couldn't just be in parallel so either can work at any time ? The only issue would be if someone brain farted and tried to supply power from shore and the truck to both at the same time ?

Bad idea. Even if other input not plugged in it would be hot. Transfer switch definitely needed.

 

[UGADawg96]

Bad idea. Even if other input not plugged in it would be hot. Transfer switch definitely needed.

yeah, as I've been thinking about it, that's the way I'm leaning. Thanks!

Sponsored