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turbopilot

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Hello,
I am at the point where I need to mount the waterproof female plug near the hitch on my truck.
It looks like you used big zip ties and secured it around the hitch bar??
Has this held up well for you? I'm trying to figure out a good way to secure it, without having to drill holes on anything.
I converted to stainless steel clamps. Seems to hold it just fine.

Ford F-150 Pro Power Onboard Generator 7.2K Powering a Trailer While Driving -- IT WORKS! IMG_7140
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Stroodle96

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I converted to stainless steel clamps. Seems to hold it just fine.

IMG_7140.jpg
Great thank you!! That's what I was thinking of doing instead of zip ties so glad to know it's holding up.
 

hedge

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May be a dumb idea, haven't really explored it, but...

Does anyone know if the truck license plate still has to be visible when you have a trailer hooked up? I was thinking of building/buying a bracket to make the plate fold down and then run my outlet rom the the truck through the existing hole behind the plate.... but my plate would be folded down when hooked up.
 

Davexxxx

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Great thread, really enjoyed it.

Eric, loved the way you engineered your system to suit your needs and space. Very well done.

Hedge, as you already have a multiplus, doesn't it already have a built in transfer switch? Pretty sure that is what allows it to be a passthrough system.

I won't be needing the PPOB while driving but for campsite hook up, I'll just use a Romex style 10ga with the proper ends to plug into the the standard trailer cord. That way I can have the tonneau closed while powering the camper. This will probably be upgraded to the 10 ga marine grade flat wire, as it is braided and more flexible but no harm to try it out with materials I already have first.

The camper is supposed to be here later this month but it'll take me a while to get it fully rigged. I had pretty decent conceptual plans, (800-1200W solar w/ 570 ah LiFePO4, multiplus etc.) with some dimensions but they made a couple critical changes on the 2024 model (added inverter prep and changed the space I was going to install the batts and gear) so a good chunk of my plans need confirmation first and maybe a re-work. Possibly for the better but still ...

I do have a question. Eric, I know how you handled the 7 pin to the separate battery for brakes but I'd rather leave the OEM system in place, or if necessary, disconnect the charging wire, as the planned system should always have ample power for that. While the PPOB is robust, the PB is electrically, very finicky and I think the less introduction of things it could complain about, would serve well.

The question then is, could I be in a condition where the batts would want to pull more than the 7 pin wiring and PB charging system could handle?
 
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Samson16

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For trailers with 30A/120V service has anyone taken advantage of the two 30A/120V circuits the PB has to not only provide shore power while boondocking, but to power owner installed convenience outlets for electric space heaters and dehumidifiers etc.?
 

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Snakebitten

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I've used one "bank" of the 240V to connect the 30Amp RV, and then the other to my brother's 50A RV with an adapter.

I've also ran my 30A RV and used the other bank's 20A 120V outlet to run a Window unit Air Conditioner, lights, dry vacuum.......

The 7.2KW bed panel offers lots of versatility for tapping both 3.6KW circuits.
 

Samson16

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It’s capabilities are to this day underrated imo.
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