Preparing for TX Ice Storm: Powering my house with F-150 PowerBoost ProPower 7.2kw Generator!

[jesaf00]

Made this last month but makes even more sense now. Using my Ford Powerboost F-150 to Power my house using a Generic manual transfer switch. I am now ready for Texas winters, ice storms, and power outages! Ran into an issue with a circuit that has kitchen lights on it because of a shared neutral that we were not able to resolve. Other than that was able to get Master Bedroom/Bathroom, living room, kitchen outlets and microwave, 2 fridges, 2 furnaces, 2 other bedrooms wired up. Apparently common mistake when connecting the Generac is connecting all the neutrals to the sub panel bus bar. Rework today and it’s alive!!!!

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[Severdog]

Made this last month but makes even more sense now. Using my Ford Powerboost F-150 to Power my house using a Generic manual transfer switch. I am now ready for Texas winters, ice storms, and power outages! Ran into an issue with a circuit that has kitchen lights on it because of a shared neutral that we were not able to resolve. Other than that was able to get Master Bedroom/Bathroom, living room, kitchen outlets and microwave, 2 fridges, 2 furnaces, 2 other bedrooms wired up. Apparently common mistake when connecting the Generac is connecting all the neutrals to the sub panel bus bar. Rework today and it’s alive!!!!

Very cool. What is the advantage of splitting off the transfer switch instead of just putting the transfer switch in front of the house feed? Also can you expand on the comment about "connecting all neutrals to the subpanel bus bar" thanks

 

[jesaf00]

Very cool. What is the advantage of splitting off the transfer switch instead of just putting the transfer switch in front of the house feed? Also can you expand on the comment about "connecting all neutrals to the subpanel bus bar" thanks

So this manual transfer switch needs to be mounted indoors, it isn't sealed for one. Second, they say it can only handle 8-10 circuits with a max circuit of 30amp so trying to put in front of my main won't work with a 60amp breaker to the house, no including pool stuff, ovens, and AC units.

as far as the neutrals, most electricians just assume going into this that they would just run the hots over to the manual transfer switch and just run the neutrals to the bus bar on the sub panel. The does not work for the f-150 and the bonded neutral in the truck. You need to completely isolate the circuits you connect by basically disconnecting the hot and neutral from the sub panel, and connecting them both to the manual transfer switch. If you dont, the truck will throw a fault and now power the circuits.

Good news is that this is all in the instructions that come with the 6852 or 6854.

 

[Heavishot]

Following. On my to-do list.

 

[DBL R]

This is really slick. How much did this setup cost?

 

[Lime Green]

Very cool. What is the advantage of splitting off the transfer switch instead of just putting the transfer switch in front of the house feed? Also can you expand on the comment about "connecting all neutrals to the subpanel bus bar" thanks

You don't want the transfer switch in front of the main breaker as the home almost certainly draws way more power than the truck can provide. You want your transfer switch to isolate a section of your panel or key circuits in a sub panel that need to be powered in an emergency that won't overload your emergency generator (truck). The PowerBoost with 7.2kW ProPower puts out a maximum of 7200 Watts or 240V @ 30A. In a home backup situation using the 7.2kW output, you would want nominal operation or sustained load to be no more than 80% of the 7200W total, although the truck has been shown to be capable of sustaining max output when needed. Your circuits kept active in an emergency should be things like your furnace and water heater, a few lights, maybe a kitchen circuit for your microwave and/or outlets for a few small appliances, the fridge... Also assuming gas or other combustion fuel source for furnace and water heater, so it's minimal electrical draw for the fan(s) and ignition. Electric furnace/ hot water draw too much power for this truck application.

The ProPower output on the truck is GFCI protected and a ground fault will be triggered if the incorrect transfer switch type is used. Work-arounds to this are to disconnect the ground -- don't recommend, doesn't meet code for the generator application. If some poor soul later connects a regular gas generator to the power input at the panel and the ground is still disconnected and they happen to be standing in a puddle of water or wearing rain-soaked clothes, they might just electrocute themselves. The other option is to connect all the neutrals to the sub-panel bus bar. Once again, not OK and can lead to a fault. Ultimately the proper way to hook it up is to use a transfer switch that also switches neutrals and maintains proper grounding. YouTube is a treasure trove of how NOT to use your F-150 for emergency home backup. Always best to hire a well-reviewed and licensed electrician.

 

[jesaf00]

You don't want the transfer switch in front of the main breaker as the home almost certainly draws way more power than the truck can provide. You want your transfer switch to isolate a section of your panel or key circuits in a sub panel that need to be powered in an emergency that won't overload your emergency generator (truck). The PowerBoost with 7.2kW ProPower puts out a maximum of 7200 Watts or 240V @ 30A. In a home backup situation using the 7.2kW output, you would want nominal operation or sustained load to be no more than 80% of the 7200W total, although the truck has been shown to be capable of sustaining max output when needed. Your circuits kept active in an emergency should be things like your furnace and water heater, a few lights, maybe a kitchen circuit for your microwave and/or outlets for a few small appliances, the fridge... Also assuming gas or other combustion fuel source for furnace and water heater, so it's minimal electrical draw for the fan(s) and ignition. Electric furnace/ hot water draw too much power for this truck application.

The ProPower output on the truck is GFCI protected and a ground fault will be triggered if the incorrect transfer switch type is used. Work-arounds to this are to disconnect the ground -- don't recommend, doesn't meet code for the generator application. If some poor soul later connects a regular gas generator to the power input at the panel and the ground is still disconnected and they happen to be standing in a puddle of water or wearing rain-soaked clothes, they might just electrocute themselves. The other option is to connect all the neutrals to the sub-panel bus bar. Once again, not OK and can lead to a fault. Ultimately the proper way to hook it up is to use a transfer switch that also switches neutrals and maintains proper grounding. YouTube is a treasure trove of how NOT to use your F-150 for emergency home backup. Always best to hire a well-reviewed and licensed electrician.

The problem with calling electricians is that most have no idea what you are talking about when you say under neutral generator. Then when. You say the generator is an f150 they basically hang up. I finally got an electrician to come out by telling them I had the generator and the manual transfer switch and just needed a verified electrician to wire it. When they found out it was an f150 they were so intrigued that they kept bringing other employees out to see it.

 

[jesaf00]

This is really slick. How much did this setup cost?

350 for the transfer switch, 250 for breakers and outlet. About $800 for install.

 

[Just Me]

I did it the old fashion way, with extension cords. Worked for what I needed. Good video though.
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...he-day-3-days-during-texas-power-outage.1826/

 

[UGADawg96]

Made this last month but makes even more sense now. Using my Ford Powerboost F-150 to Power my house using a Generic manual transfer switch. I am now ready for Texas winters, ice storms, and power outages! Ran into an issue with a circuit that has kitchen lights on it because of a shared neutral that we were not able to resolve. Other than that was able to get Master Bedroom/Bathroom, living room, kitchen outlets and microwave, 2 fridges, 2 furnaces, 2 other bedrooms wired up. Apparently common mistake when connecting the Generac is connecting all the neutrals to the sub panel bus bar. Rework today and it’s alive!!!!

Great video. Thanks for sharing! Would be nice to see the wiring in the new panel. Also, you got some killer numbers on youtube, making some cash there.

 

[IdeaOfTheDayCom]

I'm assuming this could also be a lower cost alternative to the Lightning's Intelligent Backup Power.

It wouldn't be "intelligent", so you'd have to turn it on manually like in the video, but I don't see a problem with that. In fact, I like this idea better, so you can use a traditional generator when you're not home.

 

[Dick]

So this manual transfer switch needs to be mounted indoors, it isn't sealed for one. Second, they say it can only handle 8-10 circuits with a max circuit of 30amp so trying to put in front of my main won't work with a 60amp breaker to the house, no including pool stuff, ovens, and AC units.

as far as the neutrals, most electricians just assume going into this that they would just run the hots over to the manual transfer switch and just run the neutrals to the bus bar on the sub panel. The does not work for the f-150 and the bonded neutral in the truck. You need to completely isolate the circuits you connect by basically disconnecting the hot and neutral from the sub panel, and connecting them both to the manual transfer switch. If you dont, the truck will throw a fault and now power the circuits.

Good news is that this is all in the instructions that come with the 6852 or 6854.

Please tell me what instruction are you referring to 6852 or 6854 and how do I get them. Thanks

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