Powered Subwoofer Suggestions

[pavementends]

Yes that will take high level in, so dont need an LOC, but an LC7i will flatten the EQ curve the factory installs, known as bass rolloff. so you can boost with the powered sub and get all the bass freq you want.
If you want both all in one, this will do the same as an LOC, and will flatten the EQ.
https://www.kicker.com/keyloc-smart-line-out-converter

Plus, it will tell you what wire you connect into into a harness

That Kicker Keyloc Smart LOC is pretty cool, actually. Would you recommend splicing into a rear door speaker or a front door speaker? Any difference/advantage?

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[Graygoose2021]

Nope, it will detect if its a tweet, mid or fullrange .

 

[pavementends]

Nope, it will detect if its a tweet, mid or fullrange .

Right, but is the signal to the rear doors the same as the front doors?

And will you explain what you meant by the Kicker LOC being able to tell me what harness wire to connect to?

These questions are based on my limited understanding that I'd tap into a door speaker wire to pull signal for my new subwoofer - am I on the right track? Or does the signal for the sub get pulled farther up the wiring harness (like in the dash)?

Thank you

 

[Graygoose2021]

here you go, goes into more detail.

 

[pavementends]

here you go, goes into more detail.

That video is what spurred my "this thing is pretty cool" comment above. Guess I'm still confused on what circuit/door speaker to splice the signal from... or if that video means any signal at all, even from a tweeter? ?

 

[dantheman]

That video is what spurred my "this thing is pretty cool" comment above. Guess I'm still confused on what circuit/door speaker to splice the signal from... or if that video means any signal at all, even from a tweeter? ?

I think it depends on what you want to do with the signal. If you can find a full signal, you can power anything. If you only pull from the tweeter, its not going to be a good source for a sub, as it can't fill in areas that don't exist in the signal.

This video did a good job of explaining the whole use of the tool including what source to use for what type of application.

 

[pavementends]

I think it depends on what you want to do with the signal. If you can find a full signal, you can power anything. If you only pull from the tweeter, its not going to be a good source for a sub, as it can't fill in areas that don't exist in the signal.

This video did a good job of explaining the whole use of the tool including what source to use for what type of application.

Another great vid, thanks! Was just hoping you guys had already done the research to find the best source for an external powered subwoofer. Guess I'll start with the front doors and go from there. Will let report back how it goes. Thanks again!

 

[Zyvin]

Another great vid, thanks! Was just hoping you guys had already done the research to find the best source for an external powered subwoofer. Guess I'll start with the front doors and go from there. Will let report back how it goes. Thanks again!

front doors are probably a good choice. I don’t know anyone that has put a scope on it to see, but I’d imagine they are full range.

which system do you have now? b&o, unleashed etc?

 

[pavementends]

front doors are probably a good choice. I don’t know anyone that has put a scope on it to see, but I’d imagine they are full range.

which system do you have now? b&o, unleashed etc?

Just the base system. I'll upgrade other speakers as necessary. I don't expect it to sound like the $1,500 system in my old truck, but who knows... You know how these projects are never really "done"

 

[Zyvin]

Just the base system. I'll upgrade other speakers as necessary. I don't expect it to sound like the $1,500 system in my old truck, but who knows... You know how these projects are never really "done"

I was looking at the base stereos, the wiring shows 4, 5, 6, and 7 speaker systems lol.

Well, I’ve always put in aftermarket; except for this truck (I’d rather my boat be rocking these days, lol), but I believe the base system is always the easiest.

The base system(s) use only the ACM for power, and the tweeters just branch off the front door speakers (probably just have a high pass capacitor “filter” near the tweeters).

I would imagine the door speakers are full range, and the rear doors prob are as well.

You seem to be savvy with forscan , so take a look at the ACM line below. “00” in there would be a flat eq from the ACM. I would wire up my sub, and then try the forscan as you can listen back to back to see if it improves or sounds worse. ***Just take note of your original value there.

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[pavementends]

I was looking at the base stereos, the wiring shows 4, 5, 6, and 7 speaker systems lol.

Well, I’ve always put in aftermarket; except for this truck (I’d rather my boat be rocking these days, lol), but I believe the base system is always the easiest.

The base system(s) use only the ACM for power, and the tweeters just branch off the front door speakers (probably just have a high pass capacitor “filter” near the tweeters).

I would imagine the door speakers are full range, and the rear doors prob are as well.

You seem to be savvy with forscan , so take a look at the ACM line below. “00” in there would be a flat eq from the ACM. I would wire up my sub, and then try the forscan as you can listen back to back to see if it improves or sounds worse. ***Just take note of your original value there.

727-01-02

xx**

xxxx

Awesome, thanks for that Forscan tip! ... but... I suppose risking damage to my OEM speakers above volume level the original EQ curve starts to roll off?

 

[Graygoose2021]

Yes pulling form the front door, you will get better results. Its always vehicle specific, like the 4th Gen Ram, it may be midbass only, but helps isolate and flatten any EQing the manufacture did, and give you your full, richer deep bass back.

 

[Zyvin]

Awesome, thanks for that Forscan tip! ... but... I suppose risking damage to my OEM speakers above volume level the original EQ curve starts to roll off?

I don’t think you will have a problem. I did that to my ‘14 for months before I upgraded the speakers. The key is to lower your bass level in the head unit that is going to all speakers and use your powered sub settings to increase the bass level.

 

[TexasTruck]

Yes that will take high level in, so dont need an LOC, but an LC7i will flatten the EQ curve the factory installs, known as bass rolloff. so you can boost with the powered sub and get all the bass freq you want.
If you want both all in one, this will do the same as an LOC, and will flatten the EQ.
https://www.kicker.com/keyloc-smart-line-out-converter

Plus, it will tell you what wire you connect into into a harness

Wow, I wondered if something like this was available! I thought I read if you use Forscan you can disable the factory EQ "protection".... maybe I'm mistaken.....

So this little gizmo allows me to connect it to the factory head unit output (LF, RF, LR, RR) circuit, magically levels the factory audio signals, then outputs to RCA that can feed a quality signal to an aftermarket amplifier to run door speakers and a sub via the cross overs in the amp.

I need more money!

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