PowerBoost rough charging idle.

[Snakebitten]

Yea, Ford calls what we always considered an alternator, a "starter generator". And they are right because it IS a generator and a starter in one! (I hate to think what that thing might cost out of warranty) And it is NOT an alternator because we don't need one. Which is fascinating as well.

Oddly enough, we still have a traditional starter, but according to Ford there is only one circumstance out of the listed 4 engine starting circumstances, that the traditional starter/flywheel combo is used. Basically it is for remote start.

I'm still not sure why that couldn't be done with the belt driven starter-generator, but I'm sure there's a good reason that I'm just missing.

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[mnstang]

My truck does this. I have 25k miles on my truck and this has only gotten worse.

Holy cow. 25k miles already? You must’ve got yours last year I’m assuming? Here I am freaking out that I almost have 500 miles on mine. ?

 

[lexusone44]

Did you buy from World-Ford? I agree don't bring it in until you can identify the issue and reproduce it with 75% success rate. I have a left turn signal that does not return to center after left turns but I can only reproduce it 33-50% of the time.

have you found the turn signal problem? I had the same problem had to investigate myself and found that when it didn't cancel move steering wheel to the right a little big to cancel then i opened the steering column to find the cam was out of alignment took it back to dealer they had to realign truck and now works great.

 

[Lord_estegramms]

Before I go whining to the dealership I want to know if anyone else has a rough idle with what sounds to be a misfire when the truck is parked but "on".

I have noticed this multiple times when the truck is parked and we are trying to get the kids loaded up, have the A/C running and its running off the battery, then the engine kicks on and starts to charge the battery back. The engines idle is rough and sounds like it is missing or misfiring during this time but then it kicks up the idle sounds fine right before shutting off and back to battery mode.

Does anybody else experience this?

Yup, I noticed mine yesterday rough ildling as well under the same conditions as your truck. I thought I felt it the other day but then yesterday confirmed my suspicions. Havent had the truck a month yet and dont even have 900 miles on it either. Im assuming that a software patch will come through at some point given that not enough people have this truck for it to be a big enough issue for Ford to take notice. At least thats my hope. Also reading through the threads I have to agree with Snakebitten that some of the driving modes seem exactly the same (eco/Normal). In eco mode the electric drive seems to kick in less in my experience. But getting back to the rough idle Ive only experienced it while in park. Dont know if it does it while in generator mode. I might have to try it this weekend to see if it does it under those conditions as well.

 

[toyko joe]

have you found the turn signal problem? I had the same problem had to investigate myself and found that when it didn't cancel move steering wheel to the right a little big to cancel then i opened the steering column to find the cam was out of alignment took it back to dealer they had to realign truck and now works great.

I have not found the issue yet, I would dig into it if wasn't 94deg and 80+% humidity every day this week.

 

[AutonomousHybridF150]

Yea, Ford calls what we always considered an alternator, a "starter generator". And they are right because it IS a generator and a starter in one! (I hate to think what that thing might cost out of warranty) And it is NOT an alternator because we don't need one. Which is fascinating as well.

Oddly enough, we still have a traditional starter, but according to Ford there is only one circumstance out of the listed 4 engine starting circumstances, that the traditional starter/flywheel combo is used. Basically it is for remote start.

I'm still not sure why that couldn't be done with the belt driven starter-generator, but I'm sure there's a good reason that I'm just missing.

Funny you say that, because I’ve only heard it a couple times, and it was when I was using remote start.

but most times the engine doesn’t crank until later on the remote start, so it uses the belt starter after the fact.

 

[Dan Texas]

Although the first picture shows the engine running oil pressure at 39.89psi, that numerical value barely lasts for one frame of a camera shot. It's literally changing at an impressive refresh rate of multiple times per second. The actual fluctuation is about 5psi up/down.
But the EV oil pressure is static. It will literally stand at a value 2 decimals long for 4 or 5 seconds and then maybe change to another static value for 5 seconds. I can't get my head around what pumping mechanism could be that stable.

Maybe the truck doesn’t care much what the oil pressure is when the engine isn’t running, as long as there is pressure, and only queries the sensor at a reduced refresh interval to avoid taking up bandwidth on the network. When the engine is on, it cares a lot, and requests refreshes more frequently?

My oil pressure gauge does not show zero when the truck is on electric; it shows a little bit, like maybe 5-10% of full scale. They probably just put that in there to calm those who notice such things. As far as I can tell, the coolant and transmission temps are equally massaged (= fake). I can understand that interpreting the actual numerical data from the sensors could be tricky, as the reading at the sensor may not reflect actual heat load moment to moment, so they decided massaging the data would be more useful to the average operator. But I wish they had an option “show actual numbers” for those who want to get down in the weeds and understand what’s actually going on.

 

[Snakebitten]

Great post Dan, and I bet you are right about almost everything. I said "almost" because you CAN get real numerical values for both transmission and coolant Temps. And when you do, you will see just how right you are about the gauges. They are so "weighted" that they won't move except for huge swings in the bad direction.

You can actually program the dash gauge to display the ODB PID digital temp value above the gauge itself. I haven't done it yet on my Powerboost, but I did on my 2018 KingRanch. (pic below)

I believe the guys that do all the Forscan experimentation have already cracked this feature for the 2021

 

[Pedaldude]

Yea, Ford calls what we always considered an alternator, a "starter generator". And they are right because it IS a generator and a starter in one! (I hate to think what that thing might cost out of warranty)...

It looks to be pretty well buried in the engine compartment too, so who knows what the labor cost is. Maybe just enough to wipe out all your savings on fuel!

 

[AutonomousHybridF150]

Great post Dan, and I bet you are right about almost everything. I said "almost" because you CAN get real numerical values for both transmission and coolant Temps. And when you do, you will see just how right you are about the gauges. They are so "weighted" that they won't move except for huge swings in the bad direction.

You can actually program the dash gauge to display the ODB PID digital temp value above the gauge itself. I haven't done it yet on my Powerboost, but I did on my 2018 KingRanch. (pic below)

I believe the guys that do all the Forscan experimentation have already cracked this feature for the 2021

Someone did this on the forscan thread on a 21 or PB.

 

[Snakebitten]

Someone did this on the forscan thread on a 21 or PB.

Yep. And after posting above, I've done it myself. No double honk either.

 

[don.mullins]

Great post Dan, and I bet you are right about almost everything. I said "almost" because you CAN get real numerical values for both transmission and coolant Temps. And when you do, you will see just how right you are about the gauges. They are so "weighted" that they won't move except for huge swings in the bad direction.

You can actually program the dash gauge to display the ODB PID digital temp value above the gauge itself. I haven't done it yet on my Powerboost, but I did on my 2018 KingRanch. (pic below)

I believe the guys that do all the Forscan experimentation have already cracked this feature for the 2021

Yep. And after posting above, I've done it myself. No double honk either.

FYI, on the digital dash the engine temperature is shown when it is >= 226º. I have seen it pop up when pulling my travel trailer over a mountain pass. I did not see temperatures on the transmission gauge, so I don’t know on that one.

 

[Snakebitten]

FYI, on the digital dash the engine temperature is shown when it is >= 226º. I have seen it pop up when pulling my travel trailer over a mountain pass. I did not see temperatures on the transmission gauge, so I don’t know on that one.

Wow, that's definitely NEW for 2021
And it's a great idea, but it's so strange that Ford would think you should know when it's 226 but you don't at 225.
Limp mode is supposedly ~250-254 on the 2017 - 2020.

 

[don.mullins]

Wow, that's definitely NEW for 2021
And it's a great idea, but it's so strange that Ford would think you should know when it's 226 but you don't at 225.
Limp mode is supposedly ~250-254 on the 2017 - 2020.

Well, I don’t think there’s anything special about 225° other than they had to pick a number to start / stop the temperature display on.

 

[Snakebitten]

Well, I don’t think there’s anything special about 225° other than they had to pick a number to start / stop the temperature display on.

Agree completely. But since they decided to provide the cockpit with that ACTUAL temperature on the dash for whatever reason they deemed necessary, it begs me to question why not just provide it period?

I'm not really miffed about it, of course, because I helped myself to it. Ford required me to go through a little effort, but it's done.

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