Powerboost Exhaust Heat Exchanger Delete

[Tank]

My situation is unique because Texas is doing its last vehicle inspection this year; my CEL is cosmetic after October. So getting rid of the heat exchanger was simple in that I plumbed in a 2' length of heater hose between the hose barbs on the temperature sensors and covered that with a velcro flexible heat shield. I am going to pull the electronics off of the heat exchanger ,which I had initially intended to sell, in order to get the CEL to vanish by simply connecting the wires. The temperature mismatch code isn't an issue for quite some time in Texas (I have never actually seen that one just the "whole unit is missing" codes). Whether you leave the electronics hooked up depends upon what bugs you more: a meaningless CEL or a dangling hunk of e-waste taped to the underside of your cab. My feeling is plug it in and zip tie it in place for inspection and otherwise tolerate the CEL, but it is subjective.

I'll post confirmation that process works, but I see no reason why it would not.

I live in south Louisiana, so we have the same weather.

My main reason to get rid of the Heat Exchanger is because it's a choke point in the exhaust system...
I currently have the SPD Hi-Flow Alpha Catted downpipes and the SPD Performance HX series cat-back exhaust...I plan to go to true duals to better help extract exhaust gases for my Horsepower level(640+rwhp)...

So..what your saying is I have 2 choices.

1. I can remove the heat exchanger from exhaust system, wire tie it up to fool the computer.
2. Remove the heat exchanger completely, and just plumb in a bypass between the 2 connections.

I don't care about inspections, I don't have those here...

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[amschind]

I live in south Louisiana, so we have the same weather.

My main reason to get rid of the Heat Exchanger is because it's a choke point in the exhaust system...
I currently have the SPD Hi-Flow Alpha Catted downpipes and the SPD Performance HX series cat-back exhaust...I plan to go to true duals to better help extract exhaust gases for my Horsepower level(640+rwhp)...

So..what your saying is I have 2 choices.

1. I can remove the heat exchanger from exhaust system, wire tie it up to fool the computer.
2. Remove the heat exchanger completely, and just plumb in a bypass between the 2 connections.

I don't care about inspections, I don't have those here...

You've got it. I also really appreciate the knowledge that SPD makes a COTS downpipe now. I had a custom job done with high flow Flowmaster cats which sadly didn't keep that CEL off. This kit gives me an excuse to a do a full dual exhaust. I will also point out that Full Race is doing a version of their high flow manifolds which you might also be interested in and they expect them out in October or so.

 

[Tank]

You've got it. I also really appreciate the knowledge that SPD makes a COTS downpipe now. I had a custom job done with high flow Flowmaster cats which sadly didn't keep that CEL off. This kit gives me an excuse to a do a full dual exhaust. I will also point out that Full Race is doing a version of their high flow manifolds which you might also be interested in and they expect them out in October or so.

SPD gave me a discount code to hand out to anyone who wants it.

I am currently the fastest and highest hp Powerboost, and I'm trying to make the exhaust more efficient to release a little more hp and expand my lead.

 

[HammaMan]

SPD gave me a discount code to hand out to anyone who wants it.

I am currently the fastest and highest hp Powerboost, and I'm trying to make the exhaust more efficient to release a little more hp and expand my lead.

What's the plans for the trans? Mine already has flaring issues.

 

[Tank]

What's the plans for the trans? Mine already has flaring issues.

I haven't had any issues...holding 715tq so far..

 

[amschind]

SPD gave me a discount code to hand out to anyone who wants it.

I am currently the fastest and highest hp Powerboost, and I'm trying to make the exhaust more efficient to release a little more hp and expand my lead.

I'm not a threat to your title, but the goal for my truck is to last 15-20 years and be able to pull stuff that is almost too heavy for a half ton. To that end, my goal isn't more power, but better cooling. I.e. I have enough max power to move loads that are way to heavy for the truck, but because I have to sustain that power level, inadequate (i.e. factory) cooling has the ability to reduce power output and increase temps the point that using the truck for truck things limits its lifespan AND renders it unable to perform those tasks. To that end, the other big upgrade that I want is a new radiator which the guys at FullRace also say they're going to release around the same time.

 

[HammaMan]

To that end, my goal isn't more power, but better cooling. I.e. I have enough max power to move loads that are way to heavy for the truck, but because I have to sustain that power level, inadequate (i.e. factory) cooling has the ability to reduce power output and increase temps the point that using the truck for truck things limits its lifespan AND renders it unable to perform those tasks

Ford has been acknowledging the PB's lack of cooling capacity by dropping its tow ratings, thanks in part to the forum complaints of running out of rad in high/hot/heavy conditions.

How it started

vs how it's going (2024 specs)

Now looking through the 21 vs 24 numbers you'll notice that the 3.5s with their inadequate radiator got nerfed pretty bad. The 5.0's peak went from 14k to 13klbs which isn't even 8%. All of the 3.5s with insufficient rads were reduced because they don't have enough heat rejection ala small radiator in high/hot/heavy environments. The 5th wheel numbers are limited due to larger frontal area of a camper, not a 5th wheel utility style trailer where the aero drag isn't present. The PB's numbers got nerfed the most because the hybrid motor uses the trans for cooling, which also uses the insufficient radiator.

 

[amschind]

Ford has been acknowledging the PB's lack of cooling capacity by dropping its tow ratings, thanks in part to the forum complaints of running out of rad in high/hot/heavy conditions.

How it started

vs how it's going (2024 specs)

Now looking through the 21 vs 24 numbers you'll notice that the 3.5s with their inadequate radiator got nerfed pretty bad. The 5.0's peak went from 14k to 13klbs which isn't even 8%. All of the 3.5s with insufficient rads were reduced because they don't have enough heat rejection ala small radiator in high/hot/heavy environments. The 5th wheel numbers are limited due to larger frontal area of a camper, not a 5th wheel utility style trailer where the aero drag isn't present. The PB's numbers got nerfed the most because the hybrid motor uses the trans for cooling, which also uses the insufficient radiator.

My understanding was that the battery and motor were on the same low temp loop? I don't have any data on that, really I just think it was an assumption.

Bigger picture, Why wouldn't Ford just increase the size of the radiator?

 

[HammaMan]

My understanding was that the battery and motor were on the same low temp loop? I don't have any data on that, really I just think it was an assumption.

Bigger picture, Why wouldn't Ford just increase the size of the radiator?

The e-motor is on the trans loop (that's those odd coolant passages in the trans pan). The DC/DC, HV battery, PPOB inverter, and motor inverter are on the dedicated 'low temp' coolant loop.

Due to their placement in the engine bay while being constructed of aluminum, I believe that to be a factor in that cooling loop becoming heat saturated too easily. Those components should be insulated against the heat in the engine bay. If that loop becomes heat saturated and requires full demand from the AC, that may be a cause of the reduced in-cab AC output as it's being diverted to cool that loop which shouldn't end up being that hot. When the engine bay is getting saturated with heat, if you look at the DC/DC and the traction inverter placement, they're just getting bombarded with engine heat. That's a low-temp loop that doesn't want to be above ~120f. Under normal conditions that loop likes to be around 90 degrees with the HVB being the limiting factor for temp and loop cooling panic mode. In those conditions I suspect engine heat to be the cause of that loop having to go into cooling overdrive. Those electronic components just aren't that tough to cool especially given that the AC has about 4 tons of capacity.

 

[amschind]

The e-motor is on the trans loop (that's those odd coolant passages in the trans pan). The DC/DC, HV battery, PPOB inverter, and motor inverter are on the dedicated 'low temp' coolant loop.

Well that is disappointing because it means that my transmission pan replacement idea isn't gonna work. It's also disappointing because it means that the transmission/coolant heat exchanger could be a cooling bottleneck.

 

[HammaMan]

Well that is disappointing because it means that my transmission pan replacement idea isn't gonna work. It's also disappointing because it means that the transmission/coolant heat exchanger could be a cooling bottleneck.

Updated the post w/ more info. If you recall from previous discussions my assessment given all variables was a nice large radiator being the 'silver bullet' to fix all issues. I haven't heard of anyone trying to use a previous years rad on the PB. While I haven't torn it apart to just look, I'm not aware of any unique variables that'd prevent it from fitting. I've not come across any info of someone trying.

That's really the one thing I'd like to have, and if it's something dumb like a modified bracket preventing drop-in, I'd just rectify it myself vs paying an unnecessarily large premium for a 'unique' part number.

 

[amschind]

Updated the post w/ more info. If you recall from previous discussions my assessment given all variables was a nice large radiator being the 'silver bullet' to fix all issues.

I completely agree on the radiator, but I also think the engine heat soak is a big deal. With that in mind, the exhaust components are the big ticket item. To bring this thread back around, I think that turbo wraps, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and exhaust wraps could be the single biggest improvement.

 

[HammaMan]

I completely agree on the radiator, but I also think the engine heat soak is a big deal. With that in mind, the exhaust components are the big ticket item. To bring this thread back around, I think that turbo wraps, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and exhaust wraps could be the single biggest improvement.

I think those would also add improvements, but they'd all still be manageable stock with double the rad cooling capacity. Do you have any data for insulation benefits?

 

[amschind]

I think those would also add improvements, but they'd all still be manageable stock with double the rad cooling capacity. Do you have any data for insulation benefits?

I don't have data, but you can put your hand on the crossover pipe while the engine is running if it's wrapped. I could put my IR thermometer on it and see.

 

[HammaMan]

I don't have data, but you can put your hand on the crossover pipe while the engine is running if it's wrapped. I could put my IR thermometer on it and see.

I mean more tangible benefits especially for under-hood temps at speed, etc. Clearly it'd be cooler to the touch, but what other benefits is it bringing to the table.

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