Powerboost engine oil?

[RCR001]

So u buy a 65,000 truck and skimp on oil changes or oil or filters? Use the best oil u can afford, I use PENNZOIL ULTRA PLATINUM FULL SYNTHETIC and bought a case of ford filters from Amazon, 6 bucks a filter... change my own oil every 3-4 thousand miles, or less

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[Adronm]

so I got mine with just shy of 10k miles and got my first change after about 3500 miles. I’m going to have the dealership use full synthetic and probably go with the recommended intervals after this. I figure with full synthetic the oem interval will be appropriate.

 

[Snakebitten]

You mean minimum recommendation?

Or to put another way, the manufacturer doesn't recommend going any longer than....

 

[Adronm]

When the truck tells me it’s time is what inwas thinking would be good with full synthetic

 

[Snakebitten]

I understood.

I'm just a hopeless oil thread fan.
It's not my best character trait. Lol
It's just so tempting

 

[Mash150]

I understood.

I'm just a hopeless oil thread fan.
It's not my best character trait. Lol
It's just so tempting

Oh man , and on many other threads as well. Keep it up , always interesting reads no matter the topic and excellent information to boot

 

[Gros Ventre]

Select a good oil (eg there are quite a few out there)(I use Amsoil), get the finest micron rated filter you can find (I use Canton Racing Products 8µ unit)(the typical good filter out there is on the order of 30-40µ)(If you look at the ring to cylinder clearances they are on the order of 6-10µ), use an oil analysis firm (I use Blackstone Labs), and follow their recommendations (on my engine they have now recommended going out to 12k)(Changing oil early is throwing away good oil). Why did I change oil right after taking delivery? To clean out manufacturing dust & debris.

 

[TheGoatman]

WSS-M2C961-A1

 

[nrmedic]

Changed my PowerBoost today. Based on my driving habits I’ll be doing 3-5k max. A lot of city driving and the oil today smelled of fuel despite driving around for thirty minutes prior to changing it. QSFS is cheap, so not worried.

 

[tbinmd]

All DFI engines make the oil smell like fuel.

 

[Snakebitten]

Less so if you have a longer commute though.
Really helps if the motor and it's fluids spend considerable time at full operating temperatures.

 

[nrmedic]

Less so if you have a longer commute though.
Really helps if the motor and it's fluids spend considerable time at full operating temperatures.

Thats just it, my commutes are 20 minutes tops for work. I know its going to smell of fuel, but this was incredibly strong. While I’m sure the oil would be fine, I choose to error on the side of caution. When my stock pile runs out, I’ll likely change to a 5w40 or 5w50.

 

[amschind]

I am more curious about oil FILTERS. I get the idea of using a finer filter, but that will necessarily increase resistance and all else held equal would reduce flow. Obviously this is a complex and dynamic circuit with a variable viscosity fluid, so it's not as simple as Pressure=flow*resistance.

I have resisted using a finer oil filter because as bad as tiny particles are, oil starvation is worse. Do we have any information on this?

As an aside, I Do Cars is a Missouri core tear-down shop owner who tears apart a huge variety of cores. The attention to oil changes is immediately apparent when viewing the interior of the engine. Varnish on the inside of your cylinder heads might just be cosmetic, but cam phasers have miniscule oil passages and are sensitive to it. I have no idea if aggressive oil changes help timing chain longevity: I cannot see how it would, but anything that we can do to preserve the Achilles' heel of OHC engines seems justified. It's all just money: the cost penalty for 3k vs 6k intervals and bog standard oil vs boutique voodoo oil goes away if you do it yourself.

In personal finance, the more you spend on appreciating assets and maintenance and the less you spend on depreciating assets and (REAL) interest, the easier your life will be when you are old.

 

[Samson16]

How is this oil rating?

5W-30 (ASL): API SP (Resource Conserving), SN PLUS, SN…; GM dexos1* Gen 3 (supersedes dexos1 Gen 2, LL-A-025, 6094M and 4718M); ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1; Honda HTO-06; Ford WSS-M2C946-B1, WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C929-A, WSS-M2C961-A1; Chrysler MS-6395; ILSAC GF-6A, GF-5, GF-4

Amzoil Signature Series turbo bathing miracle oil lol. Who am I kidding, I'll shell out needless extra money and still change it every 5000mi...but I'll feel better inside

 

[Davexxxx]

I will have to make a decision about this.
In the past, I've always used WIX filters and Castrol, in a heavier weight than factory recommendations. Haven't turned loose of a vehicle short of 300K miles and have never had internal problems.

I change oil and filter @ ~5K miles and at least put eyes on the air filter each time too.

But my newest engine is 21 yrs. old and have never had anything turbo charged. This is a whole new beast.

My inclination is to play it by the book on oil and filter, though from what I understand, I'll almost certainly change more frequently than specced.

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