Powerboost 7.2kW Towing Travel Trailer - First hookup and test results

[daemonic3]

This is some awesome information. Thank you for the write up.

I would be very interested if you could find out what the startup wattage your AC system is asking for your RV. I have the 2.4kw generator option...from what I read that's fine for a single AC but still I'd be interested to see if you've seen what the output looks like.

I wasn't able to by myself! The truck dash is likely fast enough to catch the transient, but I need a 2nd person inside the rig to start the AC. My wife doesn't care about this stuff at all as long as it works so I will do the experiment with my father in law in a few weeks.

Mine are both coleman mach AC's, I think 15k BTU, but they might be 13.5k BTU.

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[daemonic3]

How did the hybrid pull the trailer? Any issues? Plenty of Power? What is the tongue weight of your trailer and overall weight?

Zero issues, as expected. My 2017 EB never had issues with the power either.

The GVWR is 7995# and when I weighed it loaded before it threw 7500# across all axles previously. Tongue was over 900# but I also will run with less fresh water (enough for a few toilet flushes) rather than nearly half. Also moved folding patio set to the rear bike storage under the bunks (behind the axles) and tongue is now nicely around 800# with batt and propane. Truck is also 600# heavier so it will be more planted than before too, even though I haven't ever had issues with sway or winds (my hitch is over rated as well).

Very excited to head to Reno in a few weeks! Donner pass (>7k ft) was never a problem before and I don't expect it to be now.

 

[daemonic3]

Very good write up! I have the Imagine 2400bh and my Lariat PB is coming tomorrow, very excited to do done testing and camping. My unit is only 30 amps, one ac unit, but I plan on powering my friends trailer while camping so I got the split dog bone.

Can you link to information about 7th gear being ideal? I imagine the speed at which you tow makes a big difference. I'm comfortable towing at 70-75 and that was connected to a Jeep! Will be even more comfortable in the truck. I would have always guessed the lower the rpms while on freeway the better....seems to be moreso keeping it in thenl power band? Or out of boost?

Awesome feature tracking mileage per trailer, had no idea!

Yes! That per trailer is great, it will track the entire life of the trailer! I used to just do my best to track per trip.

Your 2400bh should be similar wind resistance to mine, being same cap shape. I just upgraded my tires to load E and larger and upgraded suspension so its 1.5" taller now so I was worried about higher wind resistance but the 7th gear trick has so much promise... I will watch the coolant temp and assume it will be ok but may not risk it in summer.

I don't remember where the 7th gear trick came from but it may have been the "other" forum? It could be a life saver if you can add 2MPG across 30 gallons for an extra 60 miles of range!

 

[pushrods]

7.2kW Propower with 50A service:

I thought this would go flawlessly but I did have a hiccup getting started.... My initial connection from Propower to trailer was: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 50A Surge Guard -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable.

Immediately when turned on the Surge Guard indicated a warning and set a 2 minute wait. Then it would cause a ground fault in the Propower instantly. I went through several rounds of resetting Propower. Happened Every. Single. Time. I needed to debug and after ruling out several things I tried this order: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 50A Surge Guard -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable. IT WORKED! Zero problems. I think since the Surge Guard does a series of tests, it needs to be AT what is the equivalent of the pedestal. So it has to be as close to the source as possible.

ANYWAY, here are some findings and I couldn't be happier with the results!! Using the Fordpass to monitor Propower is not real-time continuous like I was expecting. You have to swipe down to force a refresh, using a "pull" model rather than it "pushing" the data. Bummer! So I can't catch the startup surge of my A/C units but I am very happy with what I was able to get.

First, I disabled the main fridge and mini fridge, and the initial reading was 0 on circuit A and <100 on circuit B. That should be just the AC-DC converter and parasitics. I plugged in the mini fridge and it initially went 200W then settled back to 100W. I enabled the 37" TV and Firestick and Vizio soundbar, it is still was 100W on B. Very encouraging!

Next, I tested the microwave at default setting, which has a dedicated outlet. It turns out it is on circuit A:

Then I tested the main fridge, which also happened to be on circuit A:

I didn't screen cap it but I tested the GFCI outlets, which share a 15A breaker throughout the whole rig. They are on circuit B. So any heater, vacuum, or coffee maker will be on circuit B.

Now the most important part, the A/C units! First, I tested the bedroom unit. This screenshot is running in Cool:Low mode, and Cool:High only is 100W more. It is on circuit B. So 1300W low, and 1400W high (in addition to the floor 100W level). I cannot capture the startup surge of the A/C unit due to the Propower refresh issue...

I tested the main ducted A/C and it is on circuit A thankfully! It is also 1300 or 1400 for low/high. Here is a screenshot running both A/Cs. The truck Propower never tripped.

So, in summary (for MY particular unit):
Circuit A: Main ducted A/C, main fridge, microwave
Circuit B: Bedroom A/C, mini fridge, AC-DC converter, ALL interior outlets (TV, xbox, heaters, hairdryers, coffee makers, vacuum, etc)

I am pretty confident that using the above knowledge we can load balance and never exceed the truck's budget, WITH CONFIDENCE. Very happy (future) camper here!

Thanks for the great writeup. I am curious how often and at what power demand levels did the engine fire up to recharge the battery during generator mode?

 

[discothan]

I will say, the amount of information when backing up is OVERWHELMING. I used to just have snap on tow mirrors, and my knob. Now I have awesome tow mirrors that clearly show my ground lines, wide view straight back from the truck, and the truck camera reverse view. I still used my mirror on the inner side of the turn mostly, that camera view will take some getting used to...

This is awesome.

Any chance if we can get a picture of the Trailer Backup cam view in action to see what you are talking about?

 

[laujoyjoy]

I am currently on a thousand miles trip towing my 4500# trailer. Going through hilly PA turnpike and I have tried all three drive mode (Eco, Normal and Towhaul). I eventually settle on Normal mode when towing. I notice the difference between Normal and Towhaul is in tow mode, it locks you out at 8th gear and disable EV mode. During my long up hill drive in Normal mode, the truck still kick down to 8th or 7th at the same exact rpm as in tow mode. Eco and Normal mode will take you to 9th and 10th gear. However going long stretch downhill, I would stick with tow haul because it holds lower gear for best engine braking. I wouldn't dare using Normal or Eco on downhill. Around town, if you are in Eco or Normal, the truck still go into EV mode with a trailer, the motor has enough torque to pull at low speed with no problem. I am averaging around 11mpg with regular gas, 12 mpg with premium. BTW, engine performed fine with regular, and I am not pushing the engine at all, driving 60 to 65mph.

 

[jamesraywall]

Great information! I got my KR Powerboost with 7.2KWH yesterday. The part about the surge protector placement was really helpful.

 

[Waxer]

Great write-up Terry. Thank you for taking the time to post in such detail. Your input on this forum always seems to be coming a week or two before I get into the same issue, and it has really helped. My first trailer trip is coming in about a month, so I am just getting into my new towing set-up (also going from 2WD to 4WD with weight distributing hitch) and dialing in the 7.2kw Pro Power.

 

[blueovalguy]

7.2kW Propower with 50A service:

I thought this would go flawlessly but I did have a hiccup getting started.... My initial connection from Propower to trailer was: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 50A Surge Guard -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable.

Immediately when turned on the Surge Guard indicated a warning and set a 2 minute wait. Then it would cause a ground fault in the Propower instantly. I went through several rounds of resetting Propower. Happened Every. Single. Time. I needed to debug and after ruling out several things I tried this order: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 50A Surge Guard -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable. IT WORKED! Zero problems. I think since the Surge Guard does a series of tests, it needs to be AT what is the equivalent of the pedestal. So it has to be as close to the source as possible.

ANYWAY, here are some findings and I couldn't be happier with the results!! Using the Fordpass to monitor Propower is not real-time continuous like I was expecting. You have to swipe down to force a refresh, using a "pull" model rather than it "pushing" the data. Bummer! So I can't catch the startup surge of my A/C units but I am very happy with what I was able to get.

First, I disabled the main fridge and mini fridge, and the initial reading was 0 on circuit A and <100 on circuit B. That should be just the AC-DC converter and parasitics. I plugged in the mini fridge and it initially went 200W then settled back to 100W. I enabled the 37" TV and Firestick and Vizio soundbar, it is still was 100W on B. Very encouraging!

Next, I tested the microwave at default setting, which has a dedicated outlet. It turns out it is on circuit A:

Then I tested the main fridge, which also happened to be on circuit A:

I didn't screen cap it but I tested the GFCI outlets, which share a 15A breaker throughout the whole rig. They are on circuit B. So any heater, vacuum, or coffee maker will be on circuit B.

Now the most important part, the A/C units! First, I tested the bedroom unit. This screenshot is running in Cool:Low mode, and Cool:High only is 100W more. It is on circuit B. So 1300W low, and 1400W high (in addition to the floor 100W level). I cannot capture the startup surge of the A/C unit due to the Propower refresh issue...

I tested the main ducted A/C and it is on circuit A thankfully! It is also 1300 or 1400 for low/high. Here is a screenshot running both A/Cs. The truck Propower never tripped.

So, in summary (for MY particular unit):
Circuit A: Main ducted A/C, main fridge, microwave
Circuit B: Bedroom A/C, mini fridge, AC-DC converter, ALL interior outlets (TV, xbox, heaters, hairdryers, coffee makers, vacuum, etc)

I am pretty confident that using the above knowledge we can load balance and never exceed the truck's budget, WITH CONFIDENCE. Very happy (future) camper here!

Top notch write up. Really appreciate your time. What is this surge guard you speak of. I have a large trade show trailer I will be pulling for work that we currently use a 7kw gas generator (so noisy!). We have some ac equipment and electric heaters. Guessing around 5kw fully loaded up. Is this surge device a good idea to protect my truck?

 

[discothan]

Top notch write up. Really appreciate your time. What is this surge guard you speak of. I have a large trade show trailer I will be pulling for work that we currently use a 7kw gas generator (so noisy!). We have some ac equipment and electric heaters. Guessing around 5kw fully loaded up. Is this surge device a good idea to protect my truck?

Lots of great info out there for RV surge devices, but in general, it protects your RV electrical components from bad electrical sources that might be present at hook-ups.

 

[daemonic3]

Thanks for the great writeup. I am curious how often and at what power demand levels did the engine fire up to recharge the battery during generator mode?

I asked the same of someone else and now I see why it was so hard to answer - tree truth is I don't know! When I was doing AC testing it was too hard to hear and I didn't really walk outside I just assume the engine ran. But when it was at the floor power of 100W it was silent for long times. I didn't really let it go long enough to test though. I did some soldering at the battery box and used propower BECAUSE I CAN and the engine never kicked on, but when it was doing nothing and I was talking to the neighbor it did kick on. It seemed to only run for ~1 minute? Also I have "Eco Idle" turned on in hopes the engine "on cycle" is shorter duration but I didn't look at the dash. Was doing too many things yesterday!

I do think though that even though the truck engine is quieter than most trucks, and WAY quieter than a portable genny, I'm a bit worried it will wake neighbors at a quiet Campground. If only they provided a charge meter! We could try to optimize timing and know when it might kick on.

 

[daemonic3]

This is awesome.

Any chance if we can get a picture of the Trailer Backup cam view in action to see what you are talking about?

I should have, but didn't think about it. It is exactly like the demo vids from superduties the past few years though. It's just new to me and so many view options on the screen I just used my new awesome tow mirrors like a caveman. Need more time to figure out how the tech can supplement my mirrors.

 

[daemonic3]

Great write-up Terry. Thank you for taking the time to post in such detail. Your input on this forum always seems to be coming a week or two before I get into the same issue, and it has really helped. My first trailer trip is coming in about a month, so I am just getting into my new towing set-up (also going from 2WD to 4WD with weight distributing hitch) and dialing in the 7.2kw Pro Power.

My advice is to check the nut size on your shank! I dumbly assumed my set would cover it. And leverage on the opposite side is tricky but you'll figure it out! Hopefully you can dial exactly 1.5" to go from 4x2 to 4x4.

 

[daemonic3]

Top notch write up. Really appreciate your time. What is this surge guard you speak of. I have a large trade show trailer I will be pulling for work that we currently use a 7kw gas generator (so noisy!). We have some ac equipment and electric heaters. Guessing around 5kw fully loaded up. Is this surge device a good idea to protect my truck?

A surge guard is essential if you listen to veteran rv'ers. You plug it into the pedestal FIRST and it will do several checks on how valid the power is so you don't damage your entire rig. You can Google horror stories. My father in law always tells the story of one Campground where his surge guard found the Neutral and ground swapped so he didn't plug in. Then he rewired the pedestal and fixed it for the Campground. Then an hour later a huge class A pulled in and plugged in and fried his rig. Apparently it was not just one site that was bad!

Anyway, it will protect your rig from surges, bad wiring, low voltages, and acts as an extra breaker as well if you screw up internally. Oh, and mine also gives a live reading of the draw on both 50A circuits.

You can get them online or any camping world. I don't need it for subsequent hookups to my truck as this first hookup I didn't yet know if my propower worked. I wanted to protect my trailer the first time though. I will absolutely use it on a campsite pedestal though every time.

 

[UGADawg96]

This is a great thread! I am leaning towards getting a XLT 302a Powerboost 7.2kw along with a Grand Design 2250rk, which is 5500 UVW and 7500 GVWR. Seems like they will pair well both on and off grid.

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