daemonic3

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Starting a thread but will put some various aspects as individual posts instead of one giant one, to make quote replies easier.

20210327_123228.jpg


I have a KR Powerboost FX4, and a Grand Design Imagine 2800BH. I use a Reese Steadi Flex weight distribution hitch.





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daemonic3

daemonic3

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Initial Hookup:

My unit is kept indoors at a storage lot 20 minutes away, so I had to make any adjustments there before driving away. I used to have a 4x2 but this 4x4 is naturally 1.5" higher, so I needed to adjust my WDH ball height. The notches are 1.25" spacing so I only needed one notch. BUT - I took my torque wrench and regular socket wrench for the opposing nut and it was 1 1/8" nuts! I only had 1" socket so the lot owner graciously loaned me a deep socket and regular socket both 1 1/8". Turns out one side REQUIRED a deep socket! Boy did I get lucky. I will need to buy these if I ever have to do this solo again. The initial picture is my hookup after getting it adjusted and it came out level.

You'll see my WDH in the post with the yaw sensor install.
 
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daemonic3

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Sensor hookup:

I really really hated to have to install this, was hoping the sticker software update would come but I bit the bullet and just installed the damn thing.

20210327_130244.jpg


I tried to hide it under the propane tank housing but I couldn't zip tie there. So I put it forward a bit (so much for the warning label!) to the front of the propane tank to make it easier to unplug the cable if ever needed. The orientation forces the initial cable to go backward, so I made a gentle 180 for strain relief using another tie. Then cinched the excess length together around the tongue frame. UGLY!

20210327_130230.jpg


As far as setup in the truck computer? Was SUPER simple compared to the sticker. I only had to drive straight, then make one left turn 90 degrees and it was DONE. I did a practice backup once into a spot and everything worked great.

I will say, the amount of information when backing up is OVERWHELMING. I used to just have snap on tow mirrors, and my knob. Now I have awesome tow mirrors that clearly show my ground lines, wide view straight back from the truck, and the truck camera reverse view. I still used my mirror on the inner side of the turn mostly, that camera view will take some getting used to...
 
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MPG Testing:

The initial drive home I wanted to be cautious and used surface streets. I was happy to get about the same MPG as my last truck, but I LOVE that it tracks lifetime MPG per specific trailer! Here is a pic I snapped in the Trailer Information screen when I was almost home.

20210327_134450.jpg


In Tow/Haul mode, the engine never turns off, but it will idle at 0.8-0.9kRPM. It will only turn off the engine in Park when in Tow/Haul. So if you are in a city at a long light and don't want to waste gas shifting to Park is your only option. Auto Start/Stop was always disabled in my previous EB too but at least we have one option now with the hybrid!

Now ready for some FANTASTIC news?? The trip to return my trailer, I used the freeway (US 50 through Sacramento is nice and flat). I only drive 60mph with my setup (personal preference). At that speed, it never went further than 8th gear. I used my adaptive cruise and locked in 60mph and used my Trip2. It was stabilizing around 10MPG. Someone on one of these forums suggested that MPG is maximized in 7th gear, so I locked out 8th. I GOT BETWEEN 11.5-12MPG TOWING. The RPMs were around 2.3k versus around 2.0k when in 8th. More importantly, in 8th the Boost meter in my guages you could see it was entering boost. In 7th, the boost never kicked in! I believe that is they key. This sounds like a very useful way to balance MPG/range versus engine heat, especially if it isn't 100 degrees out. Those smarter than me can comment whether 2.3kRPM is risky or not.
 
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7.2kW Propower with 50A service:

I thought this would go flawlessly but I did have a hiccup getting started.... My initial connection from Propower to trailer was: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 50A Surge Guard -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable.

Immediately when turned on the Surge Guard indicated a warning and set a 2 minute wait. Then it would cause a ground fault in the Propower instantly. I went through several rounds of resetting Propower. Happened Every. Single. Time. I needed to debug and after ruling out several things I tried this order: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 50A Surge Guard -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable. IT WORKED! Zero problems. I think since the Surge Guard does a series of tests, it needs to be AT what is the equivalent of the pedestal. So it has to be as close to the source as possible.

20210327_164502.jpg


ANYWAY, here are some findings and I couldn't be happier with the results!! Using the Fordpass to monitor Propower is not real-time continuous like I was expecting. You have to swipe down to force a refresh, using a "pull" model rather than it "pushing" the data. Bummer! So I can't catch the startup surge of my A/C units but I am very happy with what I was able to get.

First, I disabled the main fridge and mini fridge, and the initial reading was 0 on circuit A and <100 on circuit B. That should be just the AC-DC converter and parasitics. I plugged in the mini fridge and it initially went 200W then settled back to 100W. I enabled the 37" TV and Firestick and Vizio soundbar, it is still was 100W on B. Very encouraging!

Next, I tested the microwave at default setting, which has a dedicated outlet. It turns out it is on circuit A:

Screenshot_20210327-154324_FordPass.jpg



Then I tested the main fridge, which also happened to be on circuit A:

Screenshot_20210327-154555_FordPass.jpg


I didn't screen cap it but I tested the GFCI outlets, which share a 15A breaker throughout the whole rig. They are on circuit B. So any heater, vacuum, or coffee maker will be on circuit B.

Now the most important part, the A/C units! First, I tested the bedroom unit. This screenshot is running in Cool:Low mode, and Cool:High only is 100W more. It is on circuit B. So 1300W low, and 1400W high (in addition to the floor 100W level). I cannot capture the startup surge of the A/C unit due to the Propower refresh issue...

Screenshot_20210327-155203_FordPass.jpg


I tested the main ducted A/C and it is on circuit A thankfully! It is also 1300 or 1400 for low/high. Here is a screenshot running both A/Cs. The truck Propower never tripped.

Screenshot_20210327-155408_FordPass.jpg



So, in summary (for MY particular unit):
Circuit A: Main ducted A/C, main fridge, microwave
Circuit B: Bedroom A/C, mini fridge, AC-DC converter, ALL interior outlets (TV, xbox, heaters, hairdryers, coffee makers, vacuum, etc)

I am pretty confident that using the above knowledge we can load balance and never exceed the truck's budget, WITH CONFIDENCE. Very happy (future) camper here!
 
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Power Tailgate and Tongue Jack:

I figured this would be an issue but did not know what the behavior of the tailgate would be with an obstruction. Indeed, when the power tailgate hits resistance it will back up and close again. I tried several things but you cannot stop it part way like you can with a garage door. It wants to fully open or fully close.

So no problem! I turned off power tailgate in the "Vehicle" menu in the Sync screen. Works fine, I can let the tailgate rest gently against the hitch cover as needed (like to open the tonneau if I keep it on).

20210327_164901.jpg


NOW FOR AN ISSUE:

I tried to lower the tailgate manually again at some point, but it did a POWER open and hit the jack and reversed again. I thought that was strange and the setting must have reset. But NO! In the "Vehicle" menu on sync I confirmed it was set to "Manual". I tried the tailgate again and this time it opened manually. WEIRD.

Then I was demoing for the neighbor and I opened the tailgate expecting manual again but NO it did another power open! So there is some kind of weird issue I haven't figured out regarding power openings even though it is set to manual... If anyone figures it out I'd like to know!!
 

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This is some awesome information. Thank you for the write up.

I would be very interested if you could find out what the startup wattage your AC system is asking for your RV. I have the 2.4kw generator option...from what I read that's fine for a single AC but still I'd be interested to see if you've seen what the output looks like.
 

Bendoza

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This is some awesome information. Thank you for the write up.

I would be very interested if you could find out what the startup wattage your AC system is asking for your RV. I have the 2.4kw generator option...from what I read that's fine for a single AC but still I'd be interested to see if you've seen what the output looks like.
I also have the 2.4kw and am wondering the same. I have a smaller TT with a single a/c, hoping it can at least power everything minus the a/c (powering the a/c would be a great bonus)
 

Longhorngary

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How did the hybrid pull the trailer? Any issues? Plenty of Power? What is the tongue weight of your trailer and overall weight?
 

Rich55Marshall

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Great, great post. I've only had my truck for a couple of weeks (Platinum PB, 4X4, 7.2KW) and won't have my Airstream Basecamp 20X (30W hookup for shore power) until July, but your post is more help than you can imagine. Can't hardly wait.
 

uavmx

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Very good write up! I have the Imagine 2400bh and my Lariat PB is coming tomorrow, very excited to do done testing and camping. My unit is only 30 amps, one ac unit, but I plan on powering my friends trailer while camping so I got the split dog bone.

Can you link to information about 7th gear being ideal? I imagine the speed at which you tow makes a big difference. I'm comfortable towing at 70-75 and that was connected to a Jeep! Will be even more comfortable in the truck. I would have always guessed the lower the rpms while on freeway the better....seems to be moreso keeping it in thenl power band? Or out of boost?

Awesome feature tracking mileage per trailer, had no idea!
 

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