New tires toast

[Predator]

Bought a set of new take offs in march had them replaced today tire shop says take your truck to ford you might have a issue in the rear end of the truck. top pic is front tire bottom pic is rear tire

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[hotrodmex]

A blown shock could cause the cupping.

 

[GIjoe]

Yep need new shocks

 

[Rockman5159]

IMO typical wear pattern on MI$%^&#n Primacy Tires The LTX series wears much more evenly

 

[Atlee]

IMO typical wear pattern on MI$%^&#n Primacy Tires The LTX series wears much more evenly

My truck came with so called AT tires, but they are the Michelin Primacy. While I don't like the idea of spending a lot of money for new tires, at least I would be getting rid of junk tires.

 

[Bigguy214]

Had the same problem on 2001 ram and took back to the dealer with 500 miles on it.The mechanic that looked at it told me that the tires were a real soft compound and every time you take off from a stop the tread flexes from the 5000 lb weight of the truck and that is what was causing it so they wouldn’t do anything about it.It was on both rear tires of mine.A bad shock can cause that also but if it is on both rears probably soft compound tires.

 

[powerboatr]

Had the same problem on 2001 ram and took back to the dealer with 500 miles on it.The mechanic that looked at it told me that the tires were a real soft compound and every time you take off from a stop the tread flexes from the 5000 lb weight of the truck and that is what was causing it so they wouldn’t do anything about it.It was on both rear tires of mine.A bad shock can cause that also but if it is on both rears probably soft compound tires.

he was or is a very uninformed tech.
ask him for the data on that.
only thing he may have got right is that some oem tires tend to be softer compound compared to same tire bought at tire rack, or other vendors, but most are the same same.

your pic of rear tire, i would say with a new truck, its to low of air pressure, that is allowing the center tread to touch, but not enough and the tread is heating up and feathering out. BUT you did not state how many miles are on the truck. so then a shock needs to be looked at at same time


incorrect air pressure 1st
alignment and shocks 2nd
worn suspension components 3rd
most people don't balance tire pressure to get an almost flat contact patch across the tread, which leads to fast wear in middle(high pressure) or wear on edges and feathering (to low of a pressure )
bad shocks let the tire float around and exacerbate tire pressure issues, leading to fast wear and or feathering and cupping.

worn suspension parts further the rate of tire destruction.

weigh the vehicle at each wheel and set pressures based on weight and manufacturers (tire) inflation tables

or find a place with flat smooth almost slick concrete. put some tire dressing on the tread and push vehicle slowly to get that dressed area on the concrete. let it sit a minute. then push it fwd so you see the patch mark left on the ground. it should be even across the tread with slight round on ends. in line with tread.
if its not adjust pressure up or down to get a smooth patch.
you can also lay a steel ruler on edge across the tread (on top of tire) and see if its level across with just a slight down angle at edge of tread

if you drive empty the rear tires need less air than the fronts to maintain the correct contact patch. but most never bother on a pickup in the 150 weight class. or even on passenger cars
they just set all tires to the same pressure or OMG what it states on the yellow door jamb decal.
my decal states 35 psi, which is too soft and fluffy on the fronts so based on tire contact i run 38 to 39 up front and 36 in back EMPTY. if i tow or have a load in bed then they get aired up to again run correct for long life

bigger the tire, the more important correct tire pressure becomes, for proper tire life and people comfort

 

[Orlando150]

he was or is a very uninformed tech.
ask him for the data on that.
only thing he may have got right is that some oem tires tend to be softer compound compared to same tire bought at tire rack, or other vendors, but most are the same same.

It sounds like they are talking about something that happened 21 years ago so it's probably not possible to go back to that tech.

And even if they were not wrong it's probably not relevant to a Ford built in 2022.

 

[Bigguy214]

I have the Goodyear Territory on my 22 and this is with 5700 miles and haven’t been rotated yet and kept at factory sticker inflation.In the case of the 01 Ram the tech was right because I changed the tires out to a harder compound tire at about 8k miles after rotating them a bunch of times to get as many miles as I could and the problem went away no more chopping on the rear tires.

 

[Longdeck]

I would think folks serious about their tires would have them Nitrogen filled over standard air to get better durability, fuel-efficiency, and minimum to none air leakage, and giving a stable tire pressure under different environmental condition.

If it’s a Green “N2” on the stem, then you’ll know.

 

[powerboatr]

It sounds like they are talking about something that happened 21 years ago so it's probably not possible to go back to that tech.

And even if they were not wrong it's probably not relevant to a Ford built in 2022.

my point is or was .. that the tech was full of it and probably failed that class as part of ASE certification's or was touting the standard line.
fact remains tire upkeep/care and proper inflation based on load will result in long life and even tread wear. this goes along with re-balancing as needed and rotations . which goes to the people doing balancing and how well they do their job or simply try to get as many as they can in one shift and screw quality. we pay good money for vehicles, tires etc and should expect quality techs doign work or repiars, and not fall for a bs line from dealer, tech , etc

 

[Mtnman1]

I have the Goodyear Territory on my 22 and this is with 5700 miles and haven’t been rotated yet and kept at factory sticker inflation.In the case of the 01 Ram the tech was right because I changed the tires out to a harder compound tire at about 8k miles after rotating them a bunch of times to get as many miles as I could and the problem went away no more chopping on the rear tires.

The door sticker is not relevant as soon as you change from the stock tires. The sticker is for the OEM tire that came on the truck.

As soon as you change manufacturer or size, the sticker is worthless.

 

[Bigguy214]

I am just saying the tech was right in my case wether or not that this is the cause of the op’s problem is yet to be determined.I have had loads on the tires pictured above by towing my travel trailer and have stuck with the yellow sticker tire pressures on the door jam and tires are just fine.

 

[Bigguy214]

Those are the stock tires that came on mine?

 

[Atlee]

he was or is a very uninformed tech.
ask him for the data on that.
only thing he may have got right is that some oem tires tend to be softer compound compared to same tire bought at tire rack, or other vendors, but most are the same same.

your pic of rear tire, i would say with a new truck, its to low of air pressure, that is allowing the center tread to touch, but not enough and the tread is heating up and feathering out. BUT you did not state how many miles are on the truck. so then a shock needs to be looked at at same time


incorrect air pressure 1st
alignment and shocks 2nd
worn suspension components 3rd
most people don't balance tire pressure to get an almost flat contact patch across the tread, which leads to fast wear in middle(low pressure) or wear on edges and feathering (to high of a pressure )
bad shocks let the tire float around and exacerbate tire pressure issues, leading to fast wear and or feathering and cupping.

worn suspension parts further the rate of tire destruction.

weigh the vehicle at each wheel and set pressures based on weight and manufacturers (tire) inflation tables

or find a place with flat smooth almost slick concrete. put some tire dressing on the tread and push vehicle slowly to get that dressed area on the concrete. let it sit a minute. then push it fwd so you see the patch mark left on the ground. it should be even across the tread with slight round on ends. in line with tread.
if its not adjust pressure up or down to get a smooth patch.
you can also lay a steel ruler on edge across the tread (on top of tire) and see if its level across with just a slight down angle at edge of tread

if you drive empty the rear tires need less air than the fronts to maintain the correct contact patch. but most never bother on a pickup in the 150 weight class. or even on passenger cars
they just set all tires to the same pressure or OMG what it states on the yellow door jamb decal.
my decal states 35 psi, which is too soft and fluffy on the fronts so based on tire contact i run 38 to 39 up front and 36 in back EMPTY. if i tow or have a load in bed then they get aired up to again run correct for long life

bigger the tire, the more important correct tire pressure becomes, for proper tire life and people comfort

I thought over inflated tires wore the middle out and under inflated tires wore the outside edges out.

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