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Livernois tuner for Powerboost?

erixgix

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Went ahead and spent the $100 for the EBOOST tune, and have now had a few days to live with it.

I wanted to experiment with EBOOST without any performance mods, so I requested the following tune from Livernois:

1. Completely stock tune (87 octane), except ...
2. Eliminate the skipping of gears when shifting, making all shifts sequential (*).
3. EBOOST
4. While not requested, they also removed the top speed limiter, but that will have no bearing on what I'm doing here.

(*) I noticed the transmission will still skip 2nd gear when in all electric mode, but when ICE is running, it goes through all gears as requested.

Currently have 93 octane in the tank. Using mostly Eco Drive Mode for evaluating the EBOOST tune. Truck now wants to stay in EV mode much easier when taking off from a stop. Originally you had to really baby the throttle for the same outcome, but now you can definitely baby it way less. The result is you can usually get up to a decent rolling speed and higher gear before ICE kicks in. Because of this, I'm seeing a noticeable (**) increase in MPG. Guessing this is because electrical mode is doing the heavy lifting on getting the truck moving without relying on fuel.

(**) Since a 1/4 of my current tank of gas was spent with the performance tune, I hesitate to give any exact MPG numbers. My right foot was REAL heavy with the performance tune, and MPG reflected that. I will keep the EBOOST tune as described above and go top off my tank, then report back once I have some real MPG numbers across a whole tank of fuel.
Some thoughts on Eboost. I had similar results to Bob. The EV takeoff is very noticeably different. No 2nd gear in EV. The ice cut=in at the 1 to 3 three shift is very accentuated by the firmer shifts that come with tune. IMO its a drawback in slow traffic.
I was very suprised by how it can do in EV on grades. I have a very high grade turning onto the street from the cross-street. The slope is enough that from the cross street I cant see my house and I am the 3rd in and a staight shot. I turned in at 10 mph in EV and just keep foot on peddle without increasing and it will chug up that grade in EV if there is enough charge.

Wont run at any higher speed, but noticeably more EV use when it can. The price of this is that it draws the battery down far enough that it will run in ICE to recharge a good bit more. So its a mixed bag. Your specific terrain and habits will dictate how usefull this ends up being for ya.

I have one loop hat I run frequently which will really let me see the EV shine. Its 6 miles end to end, 45 mph curning rode with rolling hills. If I drive normally and soft pedle on the rolling hills to let it roll up hills I would see 3.0 to 3.1 miles of EV and get up to 32 to 33 MPG.
After tune with Eboost, same driving habit, I noticed it would use more EV as it was rolling over hills, but with ICE running coasting downhill at 40 in places where stock it would be in EV. Seems like more ICE than 'normal'. That was confirmed at the end when I saw only 2.0 miles in EV, 1.9 on second try. MPG was around 28.

That little bit more EV it would run cresting the rolling hills ended up needing fare more recharge keeping it in ICE longer.

While I loved that it can pull of the line, the additoinal run time in my usual terrain combined with a worse 1 to 3 situation in EV made Eboost a no-go for me. I put the on eboost turn in and I prefer it for the driving I do.
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notabot

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I ❤ BOOST SEASON!

Far too much dead weight onboard 6400lbs, but it's a truck. 34.1" LTs on it as well. Sport mode pedal mashing until boost registered and then pulling better than 1g peak.

1703126716852.png


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Isn't this 4 sec 0-60 near some of the hyper/super-sports car type cars? :cool:
 

CJ912

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Impressive, the best I’ve got is 5.14 seconds
 

HammaMan

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Impressive, the best I’ve got is 5.14 seconds
Launch isn't hard (method works for all transfer cases),
- Sport mode
- 4H
- Hold traction button until it completely shuts off (cruise / lane keeping shuts off doing this)
- Lock rear end (push button on drive mode selector)

Now after doing that it's best to roll forward a bit in a left turn that ends up in the direction of travel (if you cant start from left and roll into position, you can snake into position with the last turn being a left into center, think it through). This pre-loads the rear ends locking mechanism so that the right rear tire is pushing the left rear, removing the backlash in the rear locker. Only needs about 30 degrees of rotation, a full 90 degree turn isn't needed. It also makes sure if you have IWEs on your front axle they're locked in as well. Don't reverse after that point before launching if you have locking transfer case like tremor/raptor/XL/XLT as the you can remove the TC backlash. The rear tires have a larger diameter with tire pressures equal due to the additional 1klbs on the front tires, they're squishing and have a slightly smaller rolling diameter. Some may think it's overboard, but you do you.

- Put some decent force into the brake pedal
- Push the gas starting the engine and begin pushing down gas pedal until you see the boost gauge come alive. At that point go WOT while releasing the brake pedal and watch your powerbeast launch like you've never seen it launch before.

After 2nd gear hits you can go into 4a if you have it, 2H if not. Also turn off the rear locker before you get back down to re-locking speed which I believe is 20mph. It automatically disengages at 25mph, but will re lock when speed comes back down if not turned off.

Ford F-150 Livernois tuner for Powerboost? 1703712052252
 

Eskram

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I'm going to a test & tune event at a local dragstrip next week. I'll post slips and Dragy data afterwards.

Hoping to see mid-12's, or less, but I do have a fat boy Lariat... Not sure if that's realistic expectation though.

Zero plans to reduce weight either; I want real world numbers.

Edit: @HammaMan and others - where do you mount your Dragy, since the body is Al?
 
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HammaMan

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I'm going to a test & tune event at a local dragstrip next week. I'll post slips and Dragy data afterwards.

Hoping to see mid-12's, or less, but I do have a fat boy Lariat... Not sure if that's realistic expectation though.

Zero plans to reduce weight either; I want real world numbers.

Edit: @HammaMan and others - where do you mount your Dragy, since the body is Al?
I just set it above the radio on the rubber pad, moved towards the screen.
 

Samson16

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Without a tune my PB hits the speed limiter at ~105mph. Question: At what speed does the rate of acceleration drop off?
 

mdn14

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Launch isn't hard (method works for all transfer cases),
- Sport mode
- 4H
- Hold traction button until it completely shuts off (cruise / lane keeping shuts off doing this)
- Lock rear end (push button on drive mode selector)

Now after doing that it's best to roll forward a bit in a left turn that ends up in the direction of travel (if you cant start from left and roll into position, you can snake into position with the last turn being a left into center, think it through). This pre-loads the rear ends locking mechanism so that the right rear tire is pushing the left rear, removing the backlash in the rear locker. Only needs about 30 degrees of rotation, a full 90 degree turn isn't needed. It also makes sure if you have IWEs on your front axle they're locked in as well. Don't reverse after that point before launching if you have locking transfer case like tremor/raptor/XL/XLT as the you can remove the TC backlash. The rear tires have a larger diameter with tire pressures equal due to the additional 1klbs on the front tires, they're squishing and have a slightly smaller rolling diameter. Some may think it's overboard, but you do you.

- Put some decent force into the brake pedal
- Push the gas starting the engine and begin pushing down gas pedal until you see the boost gauge come alive. At that point go WOT while releasing the brake pedal and watch your powerbeast launch like you've never seen it launch before.

After 2nd gear hits you can go into 4a if you have it, 2H if not. Also turn off the rear locker before you get back down to re-locking speed which I believe is 20mph. It automatically disengages at 25mph, but will re lock when speed comes back down if not turned off.

1703712052252.png
I tired this procedure the other evening, but my RPMs locked in at 2.4 and the boost barely had a sliver of aliveness to it. Is that how much you got?

I only had a single press on traction disable, left it in 4a and the rear was not locked. I'll have to try your method soon :sneaky:
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