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Leveling Spacer Kit... DIY or Not

rob_c28

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I was trying to figure out if there is away to do a Poll, but with that said...

How did you install your Leveling Spacer Kit? (specifically the puck kit, not strut replacement)

DIY or Had a shop do it.
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Graygoose2021

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a 2" or 2.5" puck wont hurt the front suspension. You have to pull the stock coilover out, the puck bolts on top of the strut. That's what adds the lift. Ride remains fairly stock. Another option, is but a leveled coilover. It will be a new whole assembly, that will lift the front end as one piece. Eibach, Icon, Fox, Bilstein all make complete kits.
Install, if you know what your doing can be done in 2.5 to 3 hours. Then you need a front end alignment.
 

B-real

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I've done both. If you are semi mechanically inclined and are not scared to pull the stock shocks and coils out then as Graygoose said, its a fairly easy job. Plenty of YouTube videos to watch so you can get an idea if you want to DIY it or not.

I have also paid the dealer to do it. At $200 in labor it was worth it to me on my current truck to just have it done.
 
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rob_c28

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I knew I would get a split decision ultimately with this post hahaha.

It wasn't necessarily in regards to if you would or would not use spacer pucks. But more so if you did use pucks would you do a DIY Install or not.

Regardless, I would only be using them in order to put bigger tires. Ultimately I think my decision is to stay stock suspension and get Recon Grapplers 275/60/20 just to avoid headaches haha.
 

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If you have the tools, skills, and time it is not terribly difficult. If you are not comfortable disassembling and then reassembling the front suspension, take it to a shop.
 

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CoolCoyote

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My experience buying a used F150 that had the front end "leveled" was very poor. It doesn't take long to ruin the ball joints and cv axles, as well as the front coils and shocks. It just plain screws up the suspension geometry and stiffens the front end too much.

My advice is if you want the front lifted, buy a real kit which lowers the control arm mounting points and the front axle as well. If you just don't like the rake, and don't off road or carry any significant amount of weight or a heavy trailer... Remove the blocks in the rear.

I use trucks for work, which means more often than not I have a lot of weight in the back.

Weight in the bed.... the original truck leveler, and the reason they're raked in the first place.
How does a spacer ruin the coils, ball joints, and shocks? CV axles, that's even questionable but I understand how it changes the geometry on those and can create excess wear...but everything else? Please enlighten me.
 

SumGuy

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I was trying to figure out if there is away to do a Poll, but with that said...

How did you install your Leveling Spacer Kit? (specifically the puck kit, not strut replacement)

DIY or Had a shop do it.
Just buy the fox 2.0 kit. Do it right. The fox kit rides excellent imo.
 

adyaro77

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I have had several what I would call industry experts tell me that the new trucks 21'+ can go up to 2 inches without any issues. These companies include; Ford Performance, Suburban Ford, Icon, Fox, and Auto springs in Idaho. The big question.... Do you off-road a lot? I don't. Before I lifted my 22' I had many concerns and bothered a lot of people. Not only adaptive cruise control, but also lane centering, rear end u joints, and dynamic headlights. A lot to consider and concern yourself with after spending so much money on a truck. And I will add, I had no issues with my dynamic headlights... Again, I kept stock tires and wheels.

I had Suburban install the Roush/Fox and absolutely loved them. I'll be lifting my 23' with the Fox kit. I also used auto springs 3" rear block.

Icon said if I was going off roading or over 2" then replace upper control arms and struts. Many agreed with this statement.

Because of the technology on these trucks I would have it done by a professional.
 
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Je1279

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I agree that there is a maximum spacer height that you can go with the stock suspension components. Beyond that, you will significantly reduce the life of the upper control arm ball joints. I have my Ford Performance Bilstein kit set at 2" and I felt comfortable keeping the stock control arms.
 

SumGuy

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I have had several what I would call industry experts tell me that the new trucks 21'+ can go up to 2 inches without any issues. These companies include; Ford Performance, Suburban Ford, Icon, Fox, and Auto springs in Idaho. The big question.... Do you off-road a lot? I don't. Before I lifted my 22' I had many concerns and bothered a lot of people. Not only adaptive cruise control, but also lane centering, rear end u joints, and dynamic headlights. A lot to consider and concern yourself with after spending so much money on a truck. And I will add, I had no issues with my dynamic headlights... Again, I kept stock tires and wheels.

I had Suburban install the Roush/Fox and absolutely loved them. I'll be lifting my 23' with the Fox kit. I also used auto springs 3" rear block.

Icon said if I was going off roading or over 2" then replace upper control arms and struts. Many agreed with this statement.

Because of the technology on these trucks I would have it done by a professional.
Installed the fox 2.0 kit myself. If you’re a decent wrencher you can install everything in a couple of hours.

mark your alignment bolts, get them close. Take truck in for an alignment. Done.

no issues with any system - lane centering, adaptive cruise, headlights, et al.
 

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HammaMan

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I believe it reduces the lifespan of the cv's and ball joints, by as you stated "changing the geometry and causing excess wear". Everything is put at a slightly more drastic angle. As for the springs and shock assemblies, often incorrectly referred to as "struts", I believe it adds more load to them and forces them to ride in a higher part of the stroke than designed.
2" is 2" regardless of where it comes from. The only point where things differ is the max travel of wheel itself. If you're in conditions where a front wheel is at risk of coming off of the ground due to terrain, it's better to use a coil over. Otherwise the pavement queens haven't a clue as to what's providing the additional height. Any strut that at full length is longer than the factory, it negates this entirely.
 

SpaceWhiteF150

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Def, DIY. It can easily be done with hand tools. Biggest tools needed are floor jack and jack stands. Just take your time and retightened everything back to spec with blue lock-tite!
 

Graygoose2021

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We obviously disagree. Get back to me in 50,000 miles about the condition of your ball joints.

Either way, for some people it's worth it. For others it's not. Granted, ball joints can be relatively cheap but I'm jaded after having to completely replace a front end that had been leveled with the pucks.

BTW, nice looking truck. Is that an STX?
Its totally ok to disagree. :)


Manufactures of pucks and or complete coil overs of these leveling kits do a pretty good job on R&D on these leveling systems. Most state over 3", is when you get into other ball joint, UCA, etc mods.
Ive had a puck for 1.5 years, and recently did the 2.5" Eibach. Everything is within spec.
 

JRonchetto

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For no more than it costs, I always have my done professionally and include a front end alignment. For those that say it damages front end components and causes ride issues, I disagree. I'm on my third F-150 (2009, 2016, 2021) and have put over 120,000 miles on the 2009 and 2016 without any worn front end parts or ride/drive issues. My 2021 only has 30,000 on it now, but I have no doubt it will be just like the others. I always have them install a 2 1/2" puck. IMO, if all you are wanting to do is get rid of that horrible rake, the puck is the way to go unless you have a bunch of extra money that is burning your pocket.
 

wz00r2

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Do it at a shop if it's in your budget. You'll have to take it to a shop for an alignment regardless so you might as well just let them install the spacer.
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