KO2s on Powerboost. Not super happy with the MPG hit. Is there a happy middle ground?

[CaptainAmericaRob]

I will never understand why people quibble about 1 or 2 mpg either way on a truck. However I don't have a long work commute either.
You can easily vary your mpg by that margin of error, by adjusting your driving behavior and tire psi.
In summer I run about 42 psi. Winter I generally drop down to the 30's.
The benefits of the KO2's over the stock GY Territory tires, like stability and traction, is well worth it imo.
I plan on swapping out these GY territory's this winter for a set of larger KO2's

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[xaiverson]

I am running 295/65/18 Load Range E Duratracs on stock Lariat wheels, did a 2" level, drove it for about a week on stock tires, maybe lost 1 MPG from that, then with the new tires lost about another 2-3 MPG. I only used the trip computer prior, I also adjusted the tire size using Forscan as my speedo was about 2 MPH off, I have it dialed in with GPS speed now. I started hand calculating MPG, my actual is about 19 MPG hand calculation, and the trip computer is off by 1 MPG, typically showing ~ 20 MPG on average. I was originally at 23+ on the trip computer before any changes - I run in Normal mode as I have found I get worse MPG in Eco mode with combination City/Highway driving, when I am on pure highway roadtrip Eco mode seems to do a little better than Normal mode - but nothing dramatic.

Were you able to get the GPS calculation dead on? I did it with that spreadsheet calculator and forscan, and I'm about 1 MPH off from the GPS. I was also a little unsure which line we were supposed to read the base "current hex value" from. Can you clear that up if you know?

 

[Chili]

While the weight is a factor, the increased rolling resistance is a bigger issue. Michelin LTX would fit the bill here as it's not an aggressive tire.

I went from a Duratracs setup that was 32.1" and weighed 78lbs total to a 33" Cooper at3 4s that weighed 82lbs and picked up 2 mpg on a previous truck. Both tuned for tire size. It was the rolling resistance. When I had stock tires I had 2mpg more.

 

[Chili]

I will never understand why people quibble about 1 or 2 mpg either way on a truck. However I don't have a long work commute either.
You can easily vary your mpg by that margin of error, by adjusting your driving behavior and tire psi.
In summer I run about 42 psi. Winter I generally drop down to the 30's.
The benefits of the KO2's over the stock GY Territory tires, like stability and traction, is well worth it imo.
I plan on swapping out these GY territory's this winter for a set of larger KO2's

And I will never get spending $1200 on tires that drop your mpg by 15-20% because they look tougher and make some feel like more of a badass. Tried it, never again. They also don't drive well on the street.

I live in MN so don't say winter traction. I've found AT tires to work like crap in snow and ice, comparatively.

 

[Str8Shooter]

Here's my 2 cents for what it is worth even after blowing a tire off-road.

I have spent over 11 weeks living out of my truck this year vacationing, a majority of that time was in Colorado and Utah. My camp locations were mainly off fire roads in National Forest or Bureau of Land Management - I'm guessing that out of 23K miles on my truck that at least 1K are off road miles. I took my truck off road on the Gemini Bridges Trail and Shafer Trail in MOAB, but I have been on a couple of rougher trails.

I blew out one tire since I have owned the truck but decided to stick with the stock Territory ATs. Here's why. First, I learned that if I keep the speed low for rougher roads (more on that in a second) that my stock tires could handle the terrain pretty good. Second, the spare tire is exactly the same one that is on the other 4 wheels. Third, the stock tires are quiet, give better mileage, and do well on the pavement during all 4 seasons in the mid Atlantic where I live. Last, but not least, $$$ to replace tires!

The time I blew my tire out was on an off road trail during a rain storm on a mountain in Telluride, CO. and the trail got very slippery. I got worried because it wasn't suppose to rain until mid afternoon, but instead it started to pour at 10am. I went a little faster than I normally would because of the rain to get off the trail and because I had such good luck on similar trails. That extra speed, not much I might add, combined with gravity did my stock tire in (It was repairable and repaired from the inside...so that is a win).

If I lived in Colorado, Utah, or another area where the roads are significantly not paved I would consider eating the mpg loss and get a KO2 or similar tire. I think most people that just occasionally visit rougher areas, like me, would do fine to keep the stock tire all things considered.

 

[CaptainAmericaRob]

And I will never get spending $1200 on tires that drop your mpg by 15-20% because they look tougher and make some feel like more of a badass. Tried it, never again. They also don't drive well on the street.

I live in MN so don't say winter traction. I've found AT tires to work like crap in snow and ice, comparatively.

i worked in wheel and tire testing for a few years. OEM tires are spec'd for 1- fuel efficiency, 2- ride quality.
they are NOT always the best choice, depending on your specific driving.
also, OEM tires ARE different from the namesake tires at a tire store.
I have NEVER...EVER had an OEM tire be as good as a decent AT tire in snow!
huge lifts and ridiculous oversized wheels with lower profile tires - NOT a fan.
but... that's the great thing about America... freedom of choice

 

[RedDragon65]

Were you able to get the GPS calculation dead on? I did it with that spreadsheet calculator and forscan, and I'm about 1 MPH off from the GPS. I was also a little unsure which line we were supposed to read the base "current hex value" from. Can you clear that up if you know?

I believe I have it dead on/within .5MPH (assume the speedo rounds up/down) I played around with various calculators and settings. I made my changes in the plain english section Tire Circumference in mm - the setting from factory was 2476 which I calculated to be a 31" tire (my stock tires were 32"), I seemed to be off by 2 MPH @60MPH with that setting still in place, I changed it to 2633 which I calculated should be for 33", but then was 2 MPH off the other direction. I settled in at 2525 to get the GPS and Speedo to match up - on paper this doesnt seem to make much sense, just telling you my experience - dont forget to do a PCM relearn after your setting change

 

[RedDragon65]

Besides the obvious tire weight diff/tread, I think the other big factors for me is the 295/65 wider/more road resistance, and I was running the Load E tires a little soft for ride quality (40F, 35R), I bumped them up to 42F/38R and I seem to have gained back 1-2 MPG's with that simple change and no change in ride quality or noise - I started hand calculating the last few tanks - My trip computer is consistently over stating my MPG by 1 - Ex Trip Computer says 20 MPG, hand calculation/actual = 19 MPG

 

[TJH0007]

I am surprised by your MPG Loss. I went 1" taller (295/70/18) and heavier (60#+ load E Nitto Recons) on my oversized tire and only lost 1-2MPGs depending on City/Highway. After Forscan re-calibration. Now this is on the 3.5 non PB, so maybe that makes a difference?

 

[NotMyName]

I punctured the stock Territory ATs twice within a week. I live down a gravel road and had rocks drill into those weak tires. We also overland with this vehicle so I need something more.

I put 275/70/18 KO2s on it last week. While I love the KO2s, that added ~20lb/tire is really felt in this powerboost. Commutes where I'd easily get 24-26mpg are down to 20-23. Still good for a truck, I know, but I feel like I'm cheating on one of the reasons I bought a Powerboost.

Have any of you found a happy medium? I think I need at least a "C" rated all-terrain tire and from what I've seen those are still around ~50lbs. Is it even worth backing down to that? I think the KO2s I have are 57lb.

EDIT: I've re calibrated my speedometer.

I have a 22 Platinum Powerboost with CCD. Installed Nitto Recon Grapplers 275/65/20s (34”) because they were the largest tire I could get that is 4ply. LOVE THEM. I installed them on the truck at 80miles so don’t really know my mpg with OEM tires. I can tell you that the last 2 tanks I’ve averaged 25mpg. Because I haven’t adjusted Speedo it’s really like 25.8mpg.

I had a 17 F150 Platinum with Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Biggest you can go with those and still be P-metric is 33”. Loved those too. The Recons are more quite that Ridge and the 1” larger size is only 1 pound heavier at 48 or 49 lbs per tire.

I’ve had many vehicles with the KO2s. Excellent tire! Only issue is weight which hits your mpg hard and balance was the other issue. They wear like iron if you rotate AND balance every 5k miles. I’ll post pics below of my old and new F150s

The 2017 and the 3.5 EB and was the first year of 10 spd tranny. For the life of the vehicle (sold with 67k miles) I was at 19.8mpg

 

[RT21KRH]

I punctured the stock Territory ATs twice within a week. I live down a gravel road and had rocks drill into those weak tires. We also overland with this vehicle so I need something more.

I put 275/70/18 KO2s on it last week. While I love the KO2s, that added ~20lb/tire is really felt in this powerboost. Commutes where I'd easily get 24-26mpg are down to 20-23. Still good for a truck, I know, but I feel like I'm cheating on one of the reasons I bought a Powerboost.

Have any of you found a happy medium? I think I need at least a "C" rated all-terrain tire and from what I've seen those are still around ~50lbs. Is it even worth backing down to that? I think the KO2s I have are 57lb.

EDIT: I've re calibrated my speedometer.

The K02’s are awesome tires I had them on my Lariat and 4Runner and they seem almost indestructible. I put Michelin LTX A/T^2 on the powerboost as an intermediate step. 30,000 miles with quite a bit of fast gravel no issue so far. The sidewalls seem stiffer and tougher, not as much as K02’s but tougher than defenders which are highway only. The LTX A/T^2 is marketed for gravel. The LTX and K02 tires ballpark 1 mpg less (LTX) and 2 maybe 3 mpg less (K02) when I compared back to back against the defender.

 

[xaiverson]

I believe I have it dead on/within .5MPH (assume the speedo rounds up/down) I played around with various calculators and settings. I made my changes in the plain english section Tire Circumference in mm - the setting from factory was 2476 which I calculated to be a 31" tire (my stock tires were 32"), I seemed to be off by 2 MPH @60MPH with that setting still in place, I changed it to 2633 which I calculated should be for 33", but then was 2 MPH off the other direction. I settled in at 2525 to get the GPS and Speedo to match up - on paper this doesnt seem to make much sense, just telling you my experience - dont forget to do a PCM relearn after your setting change

This seems to mimic exactly what I experienced when calibrating. Though, instead of changing the value to 2525, I left it and used that spreedsheet to gps tune. Not sure if I should have done it differently, but I am almost exactly 1 MPH off.

 

[WestlakeHorn]

Personally, I love the KO2s. Very predictable - dry, rain, snow, etc. I’ve never had OEMs that made me feel as confident. I probably would avoid buying a half ton truck if I was a fuel miser. Maybe get an order in on a Rivian?

 

[Snakebitten]

It helps to be old in order to keep things in perspective.
It's true that a tire choice can knock my Powerboost down from its lofty perch at 22-24mpg.
But I simply remind myself of my beloved 460 Ford Van that I once had.

These trucks would have been science fiction in the day.

 

[DocBach]

I use passenger rates bfg trail terrains, they’re 3pmsf rated and better on mpg than an LT tire

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