Kicker Aftermarket Speakers & Amp Issues

[Cartgreg]

Hello All. Looking for advise, any help appreciated!

I recently bought a stereo upgrade package & install from Best Buy for my non-B&O 12" screen, which has several issues. I lost faith in my tech and am trying to trouble shoot the issues for them before my next appointment in 2 weeks.

These items were installed. All amp and speaker accessories were automatically populated in their system, I chose speakers and amp only:
- PAC LP7-4 L.O.C.
- Kicker K-Series 2-channel RCA Interface, L.O.C. (why do I have 2 L.O.C.s ??, Isn't a 2-channel L.O.C. just for a subwoofer which I don't have?)
- Metra 8AWG AMP Power Kit
- Kicker KS Series 6" x 9"
- Kicker KS Series 6.5"
- Kicker 360.4 AMP 4 -Channel
- Speaker mounting brackets

Problems:
1. Static/buzz when volume is off - VERY noticeable
2. Chimes directed into pillar speakers only and sound annoying
3. Speaker balance controls no longer work
4. Pillar speakers and dash speakers are still lousy and too loud

For the static buzz issue they are thinking the amp is bad, or it's not grounded correctly, or I need an Lc7i audio controller. Based on what I read on the internet I am thinking this is most likely a grounding issue. Thoughts?

For the chimes and balance issue, based on what I've read on here is that the SYNC system is no longer detecting loads to the door speakers so assumes they aren't there. I don't want them to solder on resistors or capacitors. I am seeing a PAC AmpPRO AP4-FC21 amp interface online that's supposed to maintain factory features. Any one try this or use something different like a DSP? If so what part # please.

For the still loud pillar and dash speakers, does anyone just disconnect these or should I buy better speakers and have them run off factory head unit?

Are there any devices that might solve all of my problems?

By the way, this new equipment and install costed right around $1,000. I am pretty impressed with the KS speakers but the other issues outweigh sound satisfaction by far. Currently wishing I had just left everything stock...

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[Zyvin]

Uggh. Can you just return it all? Anyway, without knowing what the tapped for signal it’s hard to tell.

Sounds like they tapped the rear speakers and that’s why your chimes don’t come from the door speakers. The tweeters and dash are still playing chimes because they aren’t running through your new amp, but running off of the head unit. If you have back up sensors, where does that sound come from? Also, your balance doesn’t work? Or fader? Or both?

That amp takes high level inputs (i believe), so you shouldn’t have needed any converters at all. Converters can also introduce noise, but does sound like a bad ground or they have the gain on the amp wayyyy too high.

 

[Cartgreg]

I will be requesting they remove everything if they can't fix this. It's all covered under their warranty for 2 years. Really hope it doesn't come to this though.

Yes, the backup sensor sounds also are coming out of pillars. I think all stock noises do now.

I also forgot to mentioned that when I start the truck there is a noise that comes from the speakers that sounds like a street bike flew by. It's brief but another annoyance that shouldn't be there.

 

[Cartgreg]

Update. I turned the gain down a little which helped the static noise slightly but really seems to of just lowered the volume on all of the door speakers. Now the pillar and dash speaker seem louder.

 

[Graygoose2021]

who in Vegas did the install?

 

[Zyvin]

Update. I turned the gain down a little which helped the static noise slightly but really seems to of just lowered the volume on all of the door speakers. Now the pillar and dash speaker seem louder.

That pac unit also has a gain that has to be set correctly. I would have them toss that loc, and just wire straight to the amp. All 4 channels, so your fader and chimes will work correctly. Head unit->amp->speakers.

That start up noise could be from them using the pac loc remote wire to turn on the amp, also not needed. You can tap a fuse for that, andhope is more suited to remote turn-on the amp.

Note:
FYI, most stereo guys would have used that 4 channel amp to run components in the front. Component door speakers and tweeters, and left the rear doors on the head unit.

As it is now, you have tweeters in your new door speakers and factory locations. Not always a good mix. It will be loud but not necessarily good, if that makes sense.

but I know you are just trying to get something decent, it just sounds like they didn’t do you right (prob just cause they aren’t usually the most knowledgeable).

Hope you get out figured out.

 

[Cartgreg]

Graygoose, Best Buy in Summerlin did the install - needless to say I don't recommend having them install an F-150 stereo..

Zyvin, Awesome input. This is my new plan of action.
Do you think it would make sense to disconnect the pillar speakers and buy a decent center dash speaker to lower my tweeter output? With my gain currently lowered it sounds like 90% of the singing/voice volume is coming from the dash area. I definitely feel like the door speakers should be louder in comparison to the dash area.
Do you have experience wiring the amp to directly to the head unit?

 

[Zyvin]

Graygoose, Best Buy in Summerlin did the install - needless to say I don't recommend having them install an F-150 stereo..

Zyvin, Awesome input. This is my new plan of action.
Do you think it would make sense to disconnect the pillar speakers and buy a decent center dash speaker to lower my tweeter output? With my gain currently lowered it sounds like 90% of the singing/voice volume is coming from the dash area. I definitely feel like the door speakers should be louder in comparison to the dash area.
Do you have experience wiring the amp to directly to the head unit?

Tell me exactly what oem system you have. Is it 7 speakers? Also the exact model of your amp. And I’ll see if I can help.

Yea, your gains are too low (probably since you were trying to get rid of the noise), but that loc has gains too. They were supposed to set the gain on the LOC first, then on the amp, but who knows what they did. This amped door speakers should be way louder than anything else. You can try disconnecting the A pillar speakers and see if that helps with all the highs.

My B&O has alot of the voice too (by design), but I have my fader a couple of clicks to the rear.

Anyway, don’t do too much at once. After I know what you have, I’ll see if I can point you in the right direction.

 

[Cartgreg]

It is the 7 speaker system. Here's the amp: https://www.kicker.com/CXA3604-4x90-Watt-4-Channel-Full-Range-Amp
Thanks again

 

[Graygoose2021]

@Cartgreg ,

go by either Audio Express stores, Beat Clinic or Fatal Motorsports.

You can find our dealer locator at www.kicker.com and search for Dealer locator.

Please keep me informed.

 

[Zyvin]

It is the 7 speaker system. Here's the amp: https://www.kicker.com/CXA3604-4x90-Watt-4-Channel-Full-Range-Amp
Thanks again

I have attached below a wiring diagram of your system. What they should have done is use "high level inputs" instead of a LOC. The amp only has RCA style inputs therefore they should have used these: (https://www.kicker.com/2-channel-speaker-rca-converter) they are just speaker wire with RCA ends for the amps, but they are NOT low level inputs. You would basically use two of those, one for front and one for rear. This would eliminate the LOC and possible extra noise in the system.

The amp. The amp has a button for high or level, it should be on "low" if they used an LOC and should be on "hi" if you use the method above. The fader should be "on", the input level should be "high" for speaker level input (if you get rid of the LOC). Turn the bass boost all the way left to "0", turn the X-overs off for now, and turn the gains down all the way. Use the manual pg 6 (https://safe.menlosecurity.com/doc/...360a8b131a71b764b5f8d15ec13cebe1051e366c202a9) to set the input gains.

Note: You can play with bass boost and crossovers later to fine tune (I like to high pass crossover door speakers even if only 50 or 60 to keep really low freq from going to the doors). 6x9s aren't going to play really low with any quality, so I like to cut them off.

I would also use an ADD a Fuse (pic below) and use fuse #F32 on the passenger side kick panel. This will ensure that the amp is on anytime the audio control module is on and hopefully get rid of thumps, noise, etc. Also, make sure that the ground point for the amp is free from paint to ensure a solid ground.

Now with all of that said there are so other issues to work out. But this would basically just get rid of the LOC, give you a solid turn-on wire and solid ground. Once that is established you could work on other issues. For instance, I don't know how they have your speakers wired. If you notice the wiring diagram above, the tweeters are fed off of the front doors. If they tied in the amp behind that connection, then the tweeters are amplified as well.

Of course those guys that Goose referenced above could have you fixed up in no time.

 

[Cartgreg]

Wow, incredibly helpful! Zyvin, much thanks-seriously. I'm going to print this and slap it across Geek Squad's face (JK).

Plan B is to have these guys take a look: Audio Express stores, Beat Clinic or Fatal Motorsports.
Thanks Goose!

 

[Graygoose2021]

You bet, please lmk if they get you dialed in.

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