Installed Transfer Switch in House

[UGADawg96]

I installed myself. On the other side of the wall I put the inlet. Installed 50 amp breaker and connected the transfer switch. Extended 9 circuits from the main breaker to the Generac. It has 8 slots but can accommodate two tandem breakers. Luckily I had 2 breakers that were not arc fault so was able to combine them on the tandem. Basically moved Kitchen, Garage, Family Room, Master Bedroom, and the circuit with the network equipment. Also moved the downstairs furnace to the switch just in case we get another cold snap here in Texas.
The Generac was 339 plus the inlet was 50, generator cable 79, and the romex and breakers needed. Total cost was between 500 and 600.
The transfer switch cuts the hots and neutral so when on generator, it is separate from house neutral preventing a ground fault in the truck.

I am now leaning towards following the same route and doing it myself. This was a good video to watch although he did make some changes that were detailed in the description and comments after the video was uploaded.

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[BlackCloud]

For many years I have been running a Honda EM5000S generator to power the house whenever the grid power goes out. This does not happen very often, and when it does, it is seldom for more than a few hours. However, even that short time would be disastrous to the salt water reef tank I have, which requires extremely stable temperature control - hence the backup system.

I connect the generator through a GenTran transfer switch box, which allows me to select up to 6 circuits in the house, including the furnace, refrigerator, and aquarium circuits.

This weekend was the first chance I had to see if it would work with the PowerBoost Pro Power in place of the Honda generator. Of course, as expected, it immediately tripped the Pro Power off. Now I need to rethink my entire home power setup. That's ok, though. I needed to update the entire panel system anyway.

I just thought I would add my two-bits to this most excellent thread, and confirm once more that the bonded ground issue does not allow the truck be a plug 'n play replacement for a typical generator setup.

 

[Ajzride]

Hopefully an electrician or electrical engineer can shed some light for me. I understand why it is an issue, what I don’t understand is why Ford designed it that way. If most generators have a dedicated plug that is unbonded for plugging into a transfer switch, why didn’t they add one to the powerboost? Could the bond be made with a toggle so it could be bonded for worksites and unbonded for transfer switch?

 

[UGADawg96]

For many years I have been running a Honda EM5000S generator to power the house whenever the grid power goes out. This does not happen very often, and when it does, it is seldom for more than a few hours. However, even that short time would be disastrous to the salt water reef tank I have, which requires extremely stable temperature control - hence the backup system.

I connect the generator through a GenTran transfer switch box, which allows me to select up to 6 circuits in the house, including the furnace, refrigerator, and aquarium circuits.

This weekend was the first chance I had to see if it would work with the PowerBoost Pro Power in place of the Honda generator. Of course, as expected, it immediately tripped the Pro Power off. Now I need to rethink my entire home power setup. That's ok, though. I needed to update the entire panel system anyway.

I just thought I would add my two-bits to this most excellent thread, and confirm once more that the bonded ground issue does not allow the truck be a plug 'n play replacement for a typical generator setup.

The reason the Honda EM5000S works with the GenTran is because it is not neutral bonded. You would just need to swap out your GenTran for the Generac and it would work with the PB.

https://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/em5000#Specs

 

[UGADawg96]

Hopefully an electrician or electrical engineer can shed some light for me. I understand why it is an issue, what I don’t understand is why Ford designed it that way. If most generators have a dedicated plug that is unbonded for plugging into a transfer switch, why didn’t they add one to the powerboost? Could the bond be made with a toggle so it could be bonded for worksites and unbonded for transfer switch?

They did it to comply with code. The truck isn't designed or marketed as a whole house backup generator.

 

[kizzle_wizzle]

In regards to the "interlock method" a lot has been said about how disconnecting the ground wire between the panel and the PB generator isn't up to code. While I believe that is true, there has to be a reason. I'm just struggling to figure out what that reason is.

Something to consider that I keep going back to in my mind is this: There are just 3 wires that connect the main panel to the utility power. Two hot, and one neutral. The ground in the panel comes from a ground rod driven into the ground near where the utility power enters the building and is not tied to the utility service. Removing the ground wire connection to the PB generator doesn't change this basic configuration. Still the same 3 wires connected to the panel.

Using the "interlock method" and leaving the ground wire disconnected between the truck and the building seems just like using the utility power, only the hot wires are coming into the building from the PB generator and the neutral of the PB generator is tied into the panel to allow the current to "return to the source." All grounding protection and all GFCI outlets in the house should still function the same as the ground still provides a path back to the PB generator neutral since they are bonded at the panel. This is seems exactly how normal utility power and the building electrical systems are designed to work.

I understand following the code is always the best route, but in this case it involves a special transfer switch that limits the number of circuits in the building you can power. Hence why I'm trying to determine the reason the code is the way it is. Does anyone have a full example of how this is unsafe or could cause a problem that the existing electrical infrastructure in the building will not protect from?

 

[Hullguy]

In regards to the "interlock method" a lot has been said about how disconnecting the ground wire between the panel and the PB generator isn't up to code. While I believe that is true, there has to be a reason. I'm just struggling to figure out what that reason is.

Something to consider that I keep going back to in my mind is this: There are just 3 wires that connect the main panel to the utility power. Two hot, and one neutral. The ground in the panel comes from a ground rod driven into the ground near where the utility power enters the building and is not tied to the utility service. Removing the ground wire connection to the PB generator doesn't change this basic configuration. Still the same 3 wires connected to the panel.

Using the "interlock method" and leaving the ground wire disconnected between the truck and the building seems just like using the utility power, only the hot wires are coming into the building from the PB generator and the neutral of the PB generator is tied into the panel to allow the current to "return to the source." All grounding protection and all GFCI outlets in the house should still function the same as the ground still provides a path back to the PB generator neutral since they are bonded at the panel. This is seems exactly how normal utility power and the building electrical systems are designed to work.

I understand following the code is always the best route, but in this case it involves a special transfer switch that limits the number of circuits in the building you can power. Hence why I'm trying to determine the reason the code is the way it is. Does anyone have a full example of how this is unsafe or could cause a problem that the existing electrical infrastructure in the building will not protect from?

The utility drives a ground rod at the transformer. We use the natural conductivity of the “ground” as the 4th wire

 

[redactedAlias]

Ughhh! I have contacted every electrician in my area. I never mentioned the truck, only that I needed my home set up for a neutral bonded generator we purchased for hurricane season. 90% had no idea what I meant. One came out to look, said theyd to research on the neutral bonded issue, then called back and said they werent interested. The last said they would do it, and to go get a reliance transfer switch from lowes. Nowhere sells the neutral bonded X series. Not lowes, home depot, ace, tractor supply etc. The generac mentioned in this thread is out of stock too. Hurricane season is supposed to be bad this year and I really want to get this set up for my family. Has ANYONE come up with a safe solution? I mean Ford advertised doing this in the Gulf before the trucks were sold, how did they do it?!

 

[jeffcrum]

Check with http://www.generlink.com/generlink.html

They tell me that Cleco (my power company) won't let anything be installed between the meter and the meter base.

Maybe yours will.

 

[TBizz]

Any thoughts on how far the transfer switch can be from the main breaker panel? Mine is on the opposite corner of the house from my garage so I’d need a 150’ extension chord or move the switch panel closer to the truck.

 

[UGADawg96]

Ughhh! I have contacted every electrician in my area. I never mentioned the truck, only that I needed my home set up for a neutral bonded generator we purchased for hurricane season. 90% had no idea what I meant. One came out to look, said theyd to research on the neutral bonded issue, then called back and said they werent interested. The last said they would do it, and to go get a reliance transfer switch from lowes. Nowhere sells the neutral bonded X series. Not lowes, home depot, ace, tractor supply etc. The generac mentioned in this thread is out of stock too. Hurricane season is supposed to be bad this year and I really want to get this set up for my family. Has ANYONE come up with a safe solution? I mean Ford advertised doing this in the Gulf before the trucks were sold, how did they do it?!

yeah, I'm in JAX too and have had the same experience. I'm thinking about bailing on the transfer switch idea for now and just running 6/3 for a 50amp TT plug myself.

 

[Briansk12]

I installed the Generac 6852 about a month ago. Works great. I see a few places online that say they have them. They should run around $339

 

[Hullguy]

Any thoughts on how far the transfer switch can be from the main breaker panel? Mine is on the opposite corner of the house from my garage so I’d need a 150’ extension chord or move the switch panel closer to the truck.

Distance doesn’t matter. The cost of extending the circuits might cause you to gag. It’s $120 for a roll of 14/2 romex in Massachusetts

 

[UGADawg96]

Distance doesn’t matter. The cost of extending the circuits might cause you to gag. It’s $120 for a roll of 14/2 romex in Massachusetts

yeah, 50' of 6/3 is almost $300

 

[redactedAlias]

yeah, I'm in JAX too and have had the same experience. I'm thinking about bailing on the transfer switch idea for now and just running 6/3 for a 50amp TT plug myself.

I found a small business (father and son) that do a lot of the tesla and such down here in PVB. I really wanted to grab something from a store in case of manufacturing issues, but I was able to get the generac from power equipment something something on the web. Give me a week or two to have them install it and I'll let you know how it goes/who did it.

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