Shark Plissken
Member
Cool.. I know a guy who's gonna come do the labor for $150, but then I have to buy the stuff which is probably another $2-300 (the switch/box, conduit, and wire from truck to switch/box).. so.. sounds about right.
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Hamboni
Member
I've messaged a few people, on here and other forums and YouTube, and everyone seems to confirm that just removing the ground from the cable solves the issue, I guess I'll find out!
I got my inlet all installed, very happy with the outcome
I got my inlet all installed, very happy with the outcome
jcaspar
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So I finally got a chance to try this. We had a planned power outage due to a power pole being replaced in our neighborhood. I wired the end of a 10g extension cord into our panel via the 30A dryer breaker. The cord had only 3 wires so I connected one to neutral and two to hot in a L15-30P male plug. The other end was wired directly to the panel, two hots thru the breaker and one to neutral. No ground connected on either end.
WARNING! THIS WAS DONE ONLY AS A TEMPORARY TEST. UNSAFE. DO NOT DO THIS! MAY BE UNSAFE EVEN WITH INTERLOCK AND PROPER WIRING. COULD LEAD TO DEATH TO YOU OR POWER COMPANY PERSONNEL.
I turned off main breaker and all minor breakers. Turned on ProPower, flipped 30 breaker on and selectively turned on other breakers.
Works GREAT with no ground fault errors. Not sure how safe this when properly wired without the ground but it does get around the bonded neutral problem.
WARNING! THIS WAS DONE ONLY AS A TEMPORARY TEST. UNSAFE. DO NOT DO THIS! MAY BE UNSAFE EVEN WITH INTERLOCK AND PROPER WIRING. COULD LEAD TO DEATH TO YOU OR POWER COMPANY PERSONNEL.
I turned off main breaker and all minor breakers. Turned on ProPower, flipped 30 breaker on and selectively turned on other breakers.
Works GREAT with no ground fault errors. Not sure how safe this when properly wired without the ground but it does get around the bonded neutral problem.
Briansk12
Well-known member
Just I wanted let you guys know that I just installed a Generac transfer switch and it works like a champ with the Powerboost generator. The model I got is 6852.
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CommoSGT
Well-known member
My Coop where I work charge for the switch but the install is a matter of a lineman or metershop guy pulls the meter. He the pulls the meter, plugs in the switch and the puts the meter back in. He records the new seal number, runs a check on it then leaves.
JeffBea
Member
Ok, now I'm a little confused on your set up. If you had to mess with your meter then you have a whole house backup? All circuits? I was looking at the panel installation manual online and from what I read so far its just for a few dedicated circuits, the essentials so to speak.
Edit: Thought about it a little more, you must have a the automatic switch instead of manual?
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CommoSGT
Well-known member
Correct that it is automatic. With generlink you just plug your source (F150 or other portable generator) into it and adjust your breakers for the load you can support.
With the generlink installed it becomes a bit safer for the linemen. When you plug your generator into an outlet and don't throw the main off, you put voltage on the lines upwards of 7200 volts. 60:1 transformer...can be higher if the transformer was for a 14.4k feed to the home.
Briansk12
Well-known member
I installed myself. On the other side of the wall I put the inlet. Installed 50 amp breaker and connected the transfer switch. Extended 9 circuits from the main breaker to the Generac. It has 8 slots but can accommodate two tandem breakers. Luckily I had 2 breakers that were not arc fault so was able to combine them on the tandem. Basically moved Kitchen, Garage, Family Room, Master Bedroom, and the circuit with the network equipment. Also moved the downstairs furnace to the switch just in case we get another cold snap here in Texas.
The Generac was 339 plus the inlet was 50, generator cable 79, and the romex and breakers needed. Total cost was between 500 and 600.
The transfer switch cuts the hots and neutral so when on generator, it is separate from house neutral preventing a ground fault in the truck.
JeffBea
Member
Thanks for posting what actually worked for you. A lot of other posts elsewhere always say they had something installed but haven't tried it yet or give no details on anything. Home depot and Lowes are out of stock on these Sub Panels for a few more weeks. I already ran the connection from my garage to the main panel and made my jumper cable from my truck to the garage connection. That was several hundred bucks just for that. Me and a buddy did all that ourselves. I was going to do the interconnect which didn't work. Wasn't a lot of info on these February this year when I tried it.
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Briansk12
Well-known member
I ordered the switch from Lowe's. Wasn't supposed to get to me until mid July but ended up getting it on Monday. https://www.nationwidegenerators.com/ shows they still have some in stock.
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UGADawg96
Well-known member
So is the current positioning here that when using an interlock switch like above, have the electrician install it normally and then just air gap the ground wire in the cable between the truck and the inlet plug ?I've messaged a few people, on here and other forums and YouTube, and everyone seems to confirm that just removing the ground from the cable solves the issue, I guess I'll find out!
I got my inlet all installed, very happy with the outcome
We have a local electrician the specializes in interlocks and generator installation, but want to be prepared when they come out to estimate installing not only this, but also a 30amp outlet next to it so we can hook up our 30amp TT to the house.
JIMFOUNTAIN
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No comment on the air gap.. I don't have the expertise! But 30 amp is a mistake. If you are putting in a plug put in a 50 amp. Then use a 50 to 30 bone to plug in your travel trailer. You probably already have one in your TT for sites that have 50 amp service. Electrician price should be nearly identical. But the 50 gives you the ability to also have a TT with twin ACs. Charge a Tesla (future EV). Run an reasonable welder. Run a 240V 20 amp portable heater in the garage... whatever.
I put in a 30 AMP. REALLY wish I had done 50 now!
Jim
UGADawg96
Well-known member
Well, for the TT, I want the outlet to be outside on the side so we can keep the garage doors closed. I do agree a 50amp would suffice for the TT and then we could use the dogbone. And for the future TT upgrades, the 50 is there and ready. In the future for an electric car, we'd add the circuit inside the garage. But no need for welder or heater for us, hah.
UGADawg96
Well-known member
Just got a quote from an electrician to do the work mentioned above, which is an interlock switch and 30amp inlet box for the PB (or generator) and then a 50amp RV outlet box. They'll need to add a main breaker to the garage circuit panel since the actual main is outside by the meter. They'll also have to move some circuits around in the box to add in the PB/generator back feed breaker. Then run the wires from the circuit panel on one side of the garage through the ceiling above the garage, come down the opposite wall through conduit and then punch through to put the two boxes on the outside of the house. His quote was $1600. It is about double what I expected.
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