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Installed Transfer Switch in House

currybob

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Just got a quote from an electrician to do the work mentioned above, which is an interlock switch and 30amp inlet box for the PB (or generator) and then a 50amp RV outlet box. They'll need to add a main breaker to the garage circuit panel since the actual main is outside by the meter. They'll also have to move some circuits around in the box to add in the PB/generator back feed breaker. Then run the wires from the circuit panel on one side of the garage through the ceiling above the garage, come down the opposite wall through conduit and then punch through to put the two boxes on the outside of the house. His quote was $1600. It is about double what I expected.
I would at least get another quote.
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UGADawg96

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Just got a quote from an electrician to do the work mentioned above, which is an interlock switch and 30amp inlet box for the PB (or generator) and then a 50amp RV outlet box. They'll need to add a main breaker to the garage circuit panel since the actual main is outside by the meter. They'll also have to move some circuits around in the box to add in the PB/generator back feed breaker. Then run the wires from the circuit panel on one side of the garage through the ceiling above the garage, come down the opposite wall through conduit and then punch through to put the two boxes on the outside of the house. His quote was $1600. It is about double what I expected.
I would at least get another quote.
Quote #2: $3,220

Ford F-150 Installed Transfer Switch in House c595368d89bff152af9def625dea0e1135a9a058&rid=giphy


Quote #3: $1,250

Ford F-150 Installed Transfer Switch in House 4ObL
 

Way2qk4u2c

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Yeah i went the interlock way and did the install myself. Parts all in was 350 bucks because i had to move main breaker. Next step is to install a soft start on my A/C unit so it doesnt trip the generator. I tested my A/C startup was 55 amps draw so after the soft start gets installed it should be around 18-22 amps. I have a pool as well so the truck should be able to power the pool pump, A/C, and various outlets in the house with no issues. I'm done with power issues here in the great state of Texas.
 

xtraman122

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I’m interested in hearing more reports of whether the bonded neutral has been cussing issues for those with interlocks. I have one installed that I normally use with a portable gas generator, and am interested in testing out the truck to see if it’ll work. By all means it should be a problem, it definitely shouldn’t be bonded in two places.

I’m not sure if the electrician skipped the ground when he installed it knowing most generators are bonded already, or if he wired correctly (Assume he did wire it correctly). I think I’ll probably end up having to get a second cord to use just with the truck that has the ground disconnected.

Maybe I can test it sometime soon. If I do it while the wife is home I know I’ll get plenty of “wtf are you doing” when I shut the power down a bunch of times just to do some “testing”.
 

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I’m interested in hearing more reports of whether the bonded neutral has been cussing issues for those with interlocks. I have one installed that I normally use with a portable gas generator, and am interested in testing out the truck to see if it’ll work. By all means it should be a problem, it definitely shouldn’t be bonded in two places.

I’m not sure if the electrician skipped the ground when he installed it knowing most generators are bonded already, or if he wired correctly (Assume he did wire it correctly). I think I’ll probably end up having to get a second cord to use just with the truck that has the ground disconnected.

Maybe I can test it sometime soon. If I do it while the wife is home I know I’ll get plenty of “wtf are you doing” when I shut the power down a bunch of times just to do some “testing”.
Most likely, your generator isn't bonded at the 30 amp connector.

No interlock will do what is needed.
 

xtraman122

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Most likely, your generator isn't bonded at the 30 amp connector.

No interlock will do what is needed.
I agree on both points, hence the considerations of making a special cable without the ground if I ever need to use the truck to power the house. I’ve send a few guys here report that they had success with it.
 

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I agree on both points, hence the considerations of making a special cable without the ground if I ever need to use the truck to power the house. I’ve send a few guys here report that they had success with it.
I get it. I just wanted to point it out in case someone jumps into the thread late and misses the other discussions.

Also, there is an electrician on here that says not to do the cord that way.

I am not an electrician. But, have recently read way more on this than I ever wanted ? The electrical codes are clear on how this should be done. But, everyone has to decide for themselves how much risk is worth it.
 

xtraman122

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I get it. I just wanted to point it out in case someone jumps into the thread late and misses the other discussions.

Also, there is an electrician on here that says not to do the cord that way.

I am not an electrician. But, have recently read way more on this than I ever wanted ? The electrical codes are clear on how this should be done. But, everyone has to decide for themselves how much risk is worth it.
Yeah, the "right" way is absolutely to have a full transfer switch that can switch your neutrals as well to fully isolate the protected circuits from the main bonded neutral/ground in your panel so the truck's neutrals can function as intended.

I haven't seen as much explanation about the actual risks associated with using the cord without the ground connected. I know it's not fully kosher, but would like to better understand the risks and what conditions it would take for them to surface.
 

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No interlock will do what is needed.
This is incorrect!

There are transfer switches expressly designed to work with Bonded Neutral generators (including ProPower). These have been discussed in this post.

You need a transfer switch that switches Neutral as well as the Hot(s).

The Reliance-X series is one such, there are others.

Direct from Reliance web site:

"The New Reliance Panel/Link X Series is a double-pole manual transfer switch with an exclusive third-pole for the neutral that switches sequentially. The X Series is perfect for use with generators having GFCI protected outlets, bonded neutral generators and installations requiring a separately-derived system.

On GFI protected generators, the X Series will prevent a ground fault which will, in turn, prevent the circuit breakers on the generator from nuisance tripping."
 

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jeffcrum

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This is incorrect!

There are transfer switches expressly designed to work with Bonded Neutral generators (including ProPower). These have been discussed in this post.

You need a transfer switch that switches Neutral as well as the Hot(s).

The Reliance-X series is one such, there are others.

Direct from Reliance web site:

"The New Reliance Panel/Link X Series is a double-pole manual transfer switch with an exclusive third-pole for the neutral that switches sequentially. The X Series is perfect for use with generators having GFCI protected outlets, bonded neutral generators and installations requiring a separately-derived system.

On GFI protected generators, the X Series will prevent a ground fault which will, in turn, prevent the circuit breakers on the generator from nuisance tripping."
Everything you have said is correct except for the first sentence.

An interconnect is not a transfer switch. That was my point.
 

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Everything you have said is correct except for the first sentence.

An interconnect is not a transfer switch. That was my point.
I was trying to clarify, as confusion abounds.

The subject of this post is: "Installed a transfer switch in the house"

Some may read the word "interconnect" as meaning the parts needed to get their ProPower to work to supply power to their house. Not just or specifically a cable/dog bone.

So there are ways (that meet electrical code) to "inter" connect ProPower to your home circuits, that does not involve violating code by dropping the GND connection.

This is what I was trying to ensure people understood.
 

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All good.
 

UGADawg96

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Are there any downsides, either due to code or safety risk, using the interlock method and removing the ground from the truck side cable ? It seems more people have been doing the interlock method versus the transfer switch method in this thread.
 

xtraman122

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It is very important that everyone understands the difference between interlocks and transfer switches with subpanels, definitely a big difference and I see people all the time use the terms interchangeably.

I do indeed have an interlock, which for those who don't know, is what allows you to backfeed your panel via a specified circuit (Usually the first breaker(s) in your panel that has the lockout device on it). The "interlock" piece of it is a mechanism that forces you to cut your main power off from the street in order to actually flip that breaker on. It's a safety device so you can't stupidly feed power back to the street causing all sorts of problems and hazards.

I have way too many individual circuits I'd want to use to be realistically put them all on a subpanel for a transfer switch, and am savvy enough to know what not to run simultaneously and overload things, which is something you need to be aware of with an interlock (You probably can't run everything on your 200A panel from a single 30A input...).
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