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Installed Transfer Switch in House

Madman

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I guess I don’t totally understand if it has to pull from both legs to get to 7.2kw or if the 30amp connection can deliver it all?
It’s the latter. The 30a outlet can provide all.

If you check out the TFL video where the PowerBoost recharges a Nissan Leaf, you’ll see that all 7.2kw are utilized. (From 7:49-11:15 marks).

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NoI'mmad

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at last something I have a clue about !
The transfer switch in the house end IS VERY important and a legal requirement BUT it has nothing to do with the house. It HAS EVERYTHING to do with isolating your generator from the SUPPLY GRID !
Otherwise you are feeding into the supply grid and some poor poor technician comes to work on the line, say a downed wire in what he has BEEN TOLD is a deactivated power line. And there you are, watching Dancing with the Stars and powering your house. WITHOUT a transfer switch, you ARE back feeding power into the grid and will likely endanger electrical workers on the line. Not to mention potential damage to your house when the power does come back on unexpectedly.
A lock out switch is a cheap work around that may or may not be legal.
I ran a hunting and fishing lodge totally OFF grid and some of my wiring of small generators into the system were drastically short of "up to code" but being off grid and remote it was my problem alone. I also was THE SOLE operator of the system. Let's just say one set up I used is affectionately know as a "suicide connection"
Another way for the 7.2kw power on board is to use the 30 amp, appropriate wiring and have a portable sub panel. I have one of those for use with my hybrid car charger that is in the garage so I now have a 50 amp subpanel available to run the beer fridge ! Because it is in a residential house I had that professionally and code worthy installed. Remember the consequences of anything you do if you need to fill in an insurance claim
 

chrisp993

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The easiest way to do all of this is with a Generlink meter mounted transfer switch..
Your local power company may even offer it as an option through them..

It is automatic so when the power comes back on it will auto transfer back to normal utility power..

It will power your whole panel.. You still have to load manage but being able to power up anything it can handle is a plus..
I don't think this will work ? as the F150's Generator is "bonded-neutral" which Generlink specifically call out as being incompatible - it will cause the GFCI to trip. FWIW, the F150 is designed this way to be OSHA compliant for GFCI safety at job-sites etc. but this is redundant for the home situation where the house panel is also protected. We need a different kind of transfer switch which properly handles a bonded-neutral generator with GFCI on the 240V output.

Anyone know the easiest / least expensive way to provide for the F150 to power the whole house panel - like the Generlink meter mounted approach - but compatible with the bonded-neutral?
 

Jim Bandy

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I want photos and invoice details, I need to do the same for mine. That price sounds excellent too.

Add me to that list also :)
 

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I don't think this will work ? as the F150's Generator is "bonded-neutral" which Generlink specifically call out as being incompatible - it will cause the GFCI to trip. FWIW, the F150 is designed this way to be OSHA compliant for GFCI safety at job-sites etc. but this is redundant for the home situation where the house panel is also protected. We need a different kind of transfer switch which properly handles a bonded-neutral generator with GFCI on the 240V output.

Anyone know the easiest / least expensive way to provide for the F150 to power the whole house panel - like the Generlink meter mounted approach - but compatible with the bonded-neutral?
Yup, you are correct.. The weird thing is that most portable generators have a bonded neutral as well.. You can easily change that, but I don't believe my large generator has a GFCI on the 50amp plug.. So it doesn't care.. A shame for sure..
 

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chrisp993

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Yup, you are correct.. The weird thing is that most portable generators have a bonded neutral as well.. You can easily change that, but I don't believe my large generator has a GFCI on the 50amp plug.. So it doesn't care.. A shame for sure..
I have read that (as you say) many portable generators have bonded-neutral *but* also an easy way to change that e.g. by disconnecting a jumper wire. Ford's F150 setup doesn't seem to have anything like this i.e. no easy way to turn the generator into a floating-neutral setup, probably for liability/safety reasons.

There are lots of switched neutral transfer switches that would seem to work e.g. Reliance X Series but they all seem to be the design that offers a sub-panel for certain critical circuits that a homeowner wants to run off the generator. With 7.2kW from my truck, I was really hoping to find an easy to install "whole house" switch and just make sure to not use my aircon or electric oven in the event of power outage, everything else would run ...

So, if anyone has any suggestions for the quickest, easiest, whole house hookup for the Powerboost please post them!
 

M88265

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I have read that (as you say) many portable generators have bonded-neutral *but* also an easy way to change that e.g. by disconnecting a jumper wire. Ford's F150 setup doesn't seem to have anything like this i.e. no easy way to turn the generator into a floating-neutral setup, probably for liability/safety reasons.

There are lots of switched neutral transfer switches that would seem to work e.g. Reliance X Series but they all seem to be the design that offers a sub-panel for certain critical circuits that a homeowner wants to run off the generator. With 7.2kW from my truck, I was really hoping to find an easy to install "whole house" switch and just make sure to not use my aircon or electric oven in the event of power outage, everything else would run ...

So, if anyone has any suggestions for the quickest, easiest, whole house hookup for the Powerboost please post them!
I did some research and found that an interlock switch fit my needs perfectly and was much cheaper than a transfer switch. You turn the main breaker off (the interlock keeps you from turning on the generator breaker unless the main is off) and then turn whatever breakers you want to run while your generator is on.
 

NoI'mmad

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I did some research and found that an interlock switch fit my needs perfectly and was much cheaper than a transfer switch. You turn the main breaker off (the interlock keeps you from turning on the generator breaker unless the main is off) and then turn whatever breakers you want to run while your generator is on.
the WHOLE point of the transfer switch is keep YOUR GENERATOR off the supply grid and back feeding electrical power into the system. it IS extremely dangerous and illegal which unfortunately is completely different from possible or not.
Your interlock prevents that by ensuring that the main breaker is off. A slightly more inconvenient way of doing things and an uninformed person may not understand the operation fully. Buy a "cheap" solution, never understand that the main panel breaker needs to be OFF and never succeed in getting their generator to power anything in the house and BLAME everyone else.
 

chrisp993

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I did some research and found that an interlock switch fit my needs perfectly and was much cheaper than a transfer switch. You turn the main breaker off (the interlock keeps you from turning on the generator breaker unless the main is off) and then turn whatever breakers you want to run while your generator is on.
Does the interlock switch break both the live *and* neutral wires i.e. properly solve the need to switch the neutral completely to the truck?
 

JeffBea

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Does the interlock switch break both the live *and* neutral wires i.e. properly solve the need to switch the neutral completely to the truck?
I tried the interlock approach and it doesn't work. The grounds are a problem, not just the neutrals. I tried pulling the neutral out of the main panel lug and still didn't work,. I could have dove deeper into the problem but I didn't want to take everything apart testing stuff.

I wish someone would post something on that got it to work and what they used to do it and how before I go investing hundreds of dollars in a sub panel.
 

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I tried the interlock approach and it doesn't work. The grounds are a problem, not just the neutrals. I tried pulling the neutral out of the main panel lug and still didn't work,. I could have dove deeper into the problem but I didn't want to take everything apart testing stuff.

I wish someone would post something on that got it to work and what they used to do it and how before I go investing hundreds of dollars in a sub panel.
Im no electrtion and I don’t know what kind of equipment I have, but I know all we had to do to fix the ground fault issue was disassemble the male end of the chord and disconnect the ground. We put it back together and it works flawlessly. If I need to take pictures of the equipment I don’t mind.
 

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Im no electrtion and I don’t know what kind of equipment I have, but I know all we had to do to fix the ground fault issue was disassemble the male end of the chord and disconnect the ground. We put it back together and it works flawlessly. If I need to take pictures of the equipment I don’t mind.
So you disconnected the ground on the plug that plugs into the truck?
 

JeffBea

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Im no electrtion and I don’t know what kind of equipment I have, but I know all we had to do to fix the ground fault issue was disassemble the male end of the chord and disconnect the ground. We put it back together and it works flawlessly. If I need to take pictures of the equipment I don’t mind.
I did try disconnecting the ground. Thought I didn't do it inside plug, I had it unhooked inside the electrical panel and I still got a ground fault at the F-150. Maybe when you have time a few pictures of your setup would help. Maybe I'm missing something simple. Inside electrical panel would be great.
 
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So you disconnected the ground on the plug that plugs into the truck?
yes, inside the plug. We disconnected inside the plug, cut the excess copper from that wire and put a little electric tape, then reassembled. So looking at it assembled, you would never know we did it. We may do another one today, I will post pictures
 
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I did try disconnecting the ground. Thought I didn't do it inside plug, I had it unhooked inside the electrical panel and I still got a ground fault at the F-150. Maybe when you have time a few pictures of your setup would help. Maybe I'm missing something simple. Inside electrical panel would be great.
sometime this morning I will post pictures of everything I have
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