Installed Transfer Switch in House

[jesaf00]

Can you post pictures of the install once the neutral lines are sorted out? Thanks in advance.

Sure. it is also explained well in this video

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[OddManOut]

Looks like this MAY be related to a common install mistake with the 6852 where an electrician runs all the neutral lines from the 6852 to the bus bar on the sub panel. Those neutrals need to be tied to the neutrals going to your outlets/lights/devices in order to fully separate from the main power. Electrician is coming back tomorrow to rework.

From your helpful description, I found two useful YouTube references that I thought I'd pass along.

The following video shows a guy that installed the Generac 6853 the way you describe that it should NOT be installed (running all the Generac white wires straight to the main panel neutral bar):



This next video shows a guy that installed the Generac the way you describe that is should be installed (with the individual neutral/whites being tied to each individual cable's white).



Thank you for your description. I was able to find the references above, which clearly show the two ways to wire the system (and only the second way will work with the Ford Powerboost trucks).

Please let us know how it goes after the electrician makes the adjustments!

 

[JoeWpg]

From your helpful description, I found two useful YouTube references that I thought I'd pass along.

The following video shows a guy that installed the Generac 6853 the way you describe that it should NOT be installed (running all the Generac white wires straight to the main panel neutral bar):


This next video shows a guy that installed the Generac the way you describe that is should be installed (with the individual neutral/whites being tied to each individual cable's white).


Thank you for your description. I was able to find the references above, which clearly show the two ways to wire the system (and only the second way will work with the Ford Powerboost trucks).

Please let us know how it goes after the electrician makes the adjustments!

Even though that is the way "it should be done", it is a mess (way too many extra junction boxes, many new connections etc.) - ie spagehtti wiring. This is the problem with these transfer panels (you have to rewire all "Critical Load" circuits to a new subpanel). If there was slack in the circuit wires then you could just remove the circuit from the main panel and bring it directly into the new transfer panel (much cleaner but still a hassle).

It would be soo much better/cleaner with a main breaker mechanical interlock to the feed from the PowerBoost - you can choose which circuits you want to run (ie when running from backup power, just flip off the breakers to the big loads that require too much power). This of course will not work as we need to also switch the neutral (not just the 2 hots).

I would dearly love to see someone take apart the inverter in the Powerboost/truck, find the neutral to ground connection and add a switch (ie bonded-neutral or non-bonded neutral). If the neutral to ground bond is disconnected inside the Powerboost inverter, then we do not have to mess up our panels as shown in that video (and we could get this all one with a simple $50 main breaker mechanical interlock).

 

[MDH]

Even though that is the way "it should be done", it is a mess (way too many extra junction boxes, many new connections etc.) - ie spagehtti wiring. This is the problem with these transfer panels (you have to rewire all "Critical Load" circuits to a new subpanel). If there was slack in the circuit wires then you could just remove the circuit from the main panel and bring it directly into the new transfer panel (much cleaner but still a hassle).

It would be soo much better/cleaner with a main breaker mechanical interlock to the feed from the PowerBoost - you can choose which circuits you want to run (ie when running from backup power, just flip off the breakers to the big loads that require too much power). This of course will not work as we need to also switch the neutral (not just the 2 hots).

I would dearly love to see someone take apart the inverter in the Powerboost/truck, find the neutral to ground connection and add a switch (ie bonded-neutral or non-bonded neutral). If the neutral to ground bond is disconnected inside the Powerboost inverter, then we do not have to mess up our panels as shown in that video (and we could get this all one with a simple $50 main breaker mechanical interlock).

I too am searching/waiting for a more simplified way to use the Powerboost to power my main panel with a mechanical inter-lock transfer switch. Come on Ford engineers and find a way to make this work on the Powerboost!

 

[Ajzride]

I'll ask again, since it seemed to get lost. Can we put a disconnect on the neutral-ground bond in the house panel, and use the neutral-ground bond in the truck. It would not be that hard to add a disconnect right above the main breaker panel to allow for this. Obviously you have to make sure you reconnect it when you go back on line power.

 

[Hullguy]

I'll ask again, since it seemed to get lost. Can we put a disconnect on the neutral-ground bond in the house panel, and use the neutral-ground bond in the truck. It would not be that hard to add a disconnect right above the main breaker panel to allow for this. Obviously you have to make sure you reconnect it when you go back on line power.

They make transfer switches that do this

 

[jesaf00]

I am now up and running!!! Ran into an issue with a circuit that has kitchen lights on it because of a shared neutral that we were not able to resolve. Other than that was able to get Master Bedroom/Bathroom, living room, kitchen outlets and microwave, 2 fridges, 2 furnaces, 2 other bedrooms wired up.

As a test ran both furnaces, microwave, turned on all lights, 2 bathroom fans, TV system, and space heater! Didn't even come close to maxing out 7.2Kw!!!!!

I did swap most of the breakers that came with the unit and used AFCI for some and tandem for some so that I could get 10 circuits moved.

Plan to test some more and take more pics later. KEY POINT is that the neutrals NEED to be moved to the Generac 6852 for the full isolation from the house. (pic of usage is not will all items above running)

Lowes.com and

nationwidegenerators.com have the Generic 6852 in stock!

 

[Ajzride]

They make transfer switches that do this

I don’t think I’m making my question clear, attached is a picture that might clarify. If my concept works, it is a much cleaner solution than the generac that swaps all the neutrals. But, if I misunderstand how the ground-neutral bond works then my concept is garbage.

 

[jesaf00]

How would you disconnect the neutral from house? I can confirm that if any of the circuits Touch any of the neutral lines connected to house power the truck will throw a fault.

 

[jesaf00]

Here is a demo of my powerboost powering my house.

 

[jcaspar]

I don’t think I’m making my question clear, attached is a picture that might clarify. If my concept works, it is a much cleaner solution than the generac that swaps all the neutrals. But, if I misunderstand how the ground-neutral bond works then my concept is garbage.

Many sub panels work this way. The neutral is insulated from the panel unless you install screw that ties the neutral to the panel, and thus the ground. It seems a switch there would work. I have seen this on a smaller sub panel (100A) that I installed in my workshop. Our 400A main panel does not have this.

 

[jesaf00]

Many sub panels work this way. The neutral is insulated from the panel unless you install screw that ties the neutral to the panel, and thus the ground. It seems a switch there would work. I have seen this on a smaller sub panel (100A) that I installed in my workshop. Our 400A main panel does not have this.

Lots of similar comments saying it should work and it works with other generators. Anyone see this work with the Powerboost?

 

[Hullguy]

I don’t think I’m making my question clear, attached is a picture that might clarify. If my concept works, it is a much cleaner solution than the generac that swaps all the neutrals. But, if I misunderstand how the ground-neutral bond works then my concept is garbage.

This would be an absolute disaster and would not pass an electrical inspection! As this is drawn you are disconnecting the ground from your system. And if you forget to throw the switch from generator to normal power your electrical system remains ungrounded!

The only way to do this safely and to code is by using the correct equipment designed to transfer between two sources.

 

[Ajzride]

This would be an absolute disaster and would not pass an electrical inspection! As this is drawn you are disconnecting the ground from your system. And if you forget to throw the switch from generator to normal power your electrical system remains ungrounded!

The only way to do this safely and to code is by using the correct equipment designed to transfer between two sources.

How does this remove the ground from the system? It only removes the neutral-ground bond. I didn't draw all the loads in and out of the breakers to keep the drawing clean, but every circuit in the house connects directly to the neutral bar and the ground bar, and then to the hot via the breaker. I agree that not putting the disconnect back after flipping the switch would be an issue in that it would leave the neutral floating, but it would not leave the house ungrounded. I can think of a way to work the disconnect into the interlock with the generator feed, but that is moot unless the rest of theory is sound.

 

[Ajzride]

I'll add this comment to my discussion above. I already have a floating neutral generator, so I don't hook my powerboost to the house. I am asking these questions out of genuine curiosity to understand (I'm a chemical engineer, not an electrical) and also to try and provide an easier solution to others who might need it.

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