Installed Bilstein 6112/5160s on my Powerboost: DIY instructions, tips, impressions

[Lippy]

Hey all. A few months ago I installed some 5160s on the rear and they definitely solved the bounce problem and helped the ride of the truck quite a bit. Now that the 6112s came out, I figured I'd give them a try. I ordered them from ShockSurplus assembled with the top mounts and installed them yesterday, at stock height. I put about 50 mi on the truck and I can say the ride is firmer but better, and the handling is improved. Overall I'm happy.

Basic installation sequence:
- Jack up and support truck and remove the wheel. I use a nice US-made Snap-On 5 ton jack stand. I don't like to screw around with these things
- Remove two of the three top shock nuts, leave the third on loosely, the one at the front
- Remove sway bar nut and top mount. You can loosen the nut and hit the nut with a hammer (not too hard) so you don't damage the threads
- Remove dust cap and half shaft nut. This is important, as you don't want to pull the axle out when you drop the LCA down. I needed to put a vice grip on the half shaft to keep it from turning to remove the nut
- Remove tie rod end
- Remove nut that holds brake lines to the suspension to give the lines more play and stress relief
- Put a jack below the LCA
- Remove lower shock nuts, below the LCA
- Remove upper ball joint
- Lower the jack slowly while holding the assembly so it doesn't flop down and stress the brake lines. A second set of hands would be nice, but isn't completely necessary
- Push down on LCA to get the shock bolts cleared and the lower mount off. The stock shocks have the bolts installed into the shocks and they can't be removed
- Once the bottom of the shock is free, hold the shock with one hand and remove the last remaining upper bolt. The shock and spring are heavy so don't let them drop. Lower it out
- If you bought the 6112s as they come from Bilstein, you'll need to remove the top mounts from the old shocks and install them on the new ones with a spring compressor
- Make sure the top mount on the new assembly is oriented exactly the same as the old one. The studs aren't symmetrical and only go in one way. When I received my assemblies, the orientation wasn't correct so, unfortunately, I had to put a spring compressor on to relieve tension so I could rotate the top mount to the correct orientation
- Install the new assembly by reversing the sequence

One thing I should highlight from the install. As others have posted, getting the rear-most top nut off the shock mount on the passenger side is a bit tricky. But it can be done from the side. To do it, I pulled the plastic mount for the orange wires off so I could move those wires up an inch or two. Then I got a socket on a standard 3/8" ratchet on and went in from the side, behind the strut mount (toward the rear of the truck). It was a pain because my ratchet is an older one and doesn't have enough teeth to have a short swing. But a short swing wrench would help.

A couple other tips:
- I didn't loosen the UCA bolts. I just jacked up the assembly until I could reassemble the upper ball joint and that worked fine
- Remove the upper sway bar link nut first, before you lower anything. Otherwise, if it's at an angle, it will be more difficult to remove
- I bought one of these https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Ratchets/2567-20 a few months ago and it really helps things go quickly. I usually just loosen bolts with a larger wrench or breaker bar, and then get the nuts on and off with this tool. It's even great to speed up lug nut installation and removal

Here are some torques:
- Upper ball joint: 85 ft lb
- Tie rod end: 85 ft lb
- Shock upper nuts: 30 ft lb (loctite)
- Shock lower bolts: 66 ft lb (loctite) per Bilstein
- Halfshaft nut: 20 ft lb
- Stabilizer bar (both ends): 59 ft lb

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[Mladen5375]

Thanks for the clear write up. I also ordered the whole kit and have received and installed the rears but I'm hearing the front 6112's are on backorder until at least July

 

[tbinmd]

Thanks for the write up!! I also bought the 6112 stage 1 package and looking forward to upgrading the suspension on my new KR. Stock FX4 suspension is the only thing I'm disappointed in, and looking to firm things up a bit.

The Milwaukee power ratchet is my favorite tool in the garage. Bought a 3/8 ratchet one a few years ago on a Black Friday sale. Last year picked up the extended reach 1/4 version, has just as much torque as the 3/8 version.

 

[JohnMcClane]

I wasn't planning on installing these myself... But your write up is so good I may take a crack at it.

 

[Lippy]

I wasn't planning on installing these myself... But your write up is so good I may take a crack at it.

It’s not that hard. With a new truck that isn’t crusty and rusty (undercarriage rust from the factory notwithstanding), the ball joints and tie rod ends pop right off

 

[81MPH]

Hey Lippy. Thanks for the write up.
I have a 21 PB as well. I have been waiting for the 6112’s to come out as well.
I noticed an improvement with Bilstein’s in the rear as well.
What do you think of the 6112’s in the front? Is the ride more controlled without being firm?

 

[Lippy]

Hey Lippy. Thanks for the write up.
I have a 21 PB as well. I have been waiting for the 6112’s to come out as well.
I noticed an improvement with Bilstein’s in the rear as well.
What do you think of the 6112’s in the front? Is the ride more controlled without being firm?

It is both more controlled and firmer, but overall, in my opinion, better and more comfortable.

 

[5.0menace]

Hey all. A few months ago I installed some 5160s on the rear and they definitely solved the bounce problem and helped the ride of the truck quite a bit. Now that the 6112s came out, I figured I'd give them a try. I ordered them from ShockSurplus assembled with the top mounts and installed them yesterday, at stock height. I put about 50 mi on the truck and I can say the ride is firmer but better, and the handling is improved. Overall I'm happy.

Basic installation sequence:
- Jack up and support truck and remove the wheel. I use a nice US-made Snap-On 5 ton jack stand. I don't like to screw around with these things
- Remove two of the three top shock nuts, leave the third on loosely, the one at the front
- Remove sway bar nut and top mount. You can loosen the nut and hit the nut with a hammer (not too hard) so you don't damage the threads
- Remove dust cap and half shaft nut. This is important, as you don't want to pull the axle out when you drop the LCA down. I needed to put a vice grip on the half shaft to keep it from turning to remove the nut
- Remove tie rod end
- Remove nut that holds brake lines to the suspension to give the lines more play and stress relief
- Put a jack below the LCA
- Remove lower shock nuts, below the LCA
- Remove upper ball joint
- Lower the jack slowly while holding the assembly so it doesn't flop down and stress the brake lines. A second set of hands would be nice, but isn't completely necessary
- Push down on LCA to get the shock bolts cleared and the lower mount off. The stock shocks have the bolts installed into the shocks and they can't be removed
- Once the bottom of the shock is free, hold the shock with one hand and remove the last remaining upper bolt. The shock and spring are heavy so don't let them drop. Lower it out
- If you bought the 6112s as they come from Bilstein, you'll need to remove the top mounts from the old shocks and install them on the new ones with a spring compressor
- Make sure the top mount on the new assembly is oriented exactly the same as the old one. The studs aren't symmetrical and only go in one way. When I received my assemblies, the orientation wasn't correct so, unfortunately, I had to put a spring compressor on to relieve tension so I could rotate the top mount to the correct orientation
- Install the new assembly by reversing the sequence

One thing I should highlight from the install. As others have posted, getting the rear-most top nut off the shock mount on the passenger side is a bit tricky. But it can be done from the side. To do it, I pulled the plastic mount for the orange wires off so I could move those wires up an inch or two. Then I got a socket on a standard 3/8" ratchet on and went in from the side, behind the strut mount (toward the rear of the truck). It was a pain because my ratchet is an older one and doesn't have enough teeth to have a short swing. But a short swing wrench would help.

A couple other tips:
- I didn't loosen the UCA bolts. I just jacked up the assembly until I could reassemble the upper ball joint and that worked fine
- Remove the upper sway bar link nut first, before you lower anything. Otherwise, if it's at an angle, it will be more difficult to remove
- I bought one of these https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Ratchets/2567-20 a few months ago and it really helps things go quickly. I usually just loosen bolts with a larger wrench or breaker bar, and then get the nuts on and off with this tool. It's even great to speed up lug nut installation and removal

Here are some torques:
- Upper ball joint: 85 ft lb
- Tie rod end: 85 ft lb
- Shock upper nuts: 30 ft lb (loctite)
- Shock lower bolts: 66 ft lb (loctite) per Bilstein
- Halfshaft nut: 20 ft lb
- Stabilizer bar (both ends): 59 ft lb

Thanks for the write up.

So these 6112s are for 2021+ F150 models? That have a +2.5" notch?
What setting did you use on yours? How much of a lift did that give you?

 

[Lippy]

Thanks for the write up.

So these 6112s are for 2021+ F150 models? That have a +2.5" notch?
What setting did you use on yours? How much of a lift did that give you?

Yes these are correct for 2021. P/N 47-323841. I don't have any lift, I'm not willing to kill my mileage.

 

[TMCCOY]

Is an alignment needed is increasing ride height 1-2"?

What are your thoughts on the kit now?

 

[Lippy]

I didn't increase my ride height so I didn't align again. If you lift at all, even 1", you will need to align.

I like them. They softened up a bit but are still firm, just a little less nervous. I would do it again.

 

[hotrodmex]

Is an alignment needed is increasing ride height 1-2"?

Yes. The toe moves in when lifting.

 

[TMCCOY]

Makes sense. I ordered the same kit with 5160s and will install on my '22 EB. I find the OEM ride very spongy and too bouncy on larger variations. Smooth but not as controlled as I like.

 

[Supercub]

Hey all. A few months ago I installed some 5160s on the rear and they definitely solved the bounce problem and helped the ride of the truck quite a bit. Now that the 6112s came out, I figured I'd give them a try. I ordered them from ShockSurplus assembled with the top mounts and installed them yesterday, at stock height. I put about 50 mi on the truck and I can say the ride is firmer but better, and the handling is improved. Overall I'm happy.

Basic installation sequence:
- Jack up and support truck and remove the wheel. I use a nice US-made Snap-On 5 ton jack stand. I don't like to screw around with these things
- Remove two of the three top shock nuts, leave the third on loosely, the one at the front
- Remove sway bar nut and top mount. You can loosen the nut and hit the nut with a hammer (not too hard) so you don't damage the threads
- Remove dust cap and half shaft nut. This is important, as you don't want to pull the axle out when you drop the LCA down. I needed to put a vice grip on the half shaft to keep it from turning to remove the nut
- Remove tie rod end
- Remove nut that holds brake lines to the suspension to give the lines more play and stress relief
- Put a jack below the LCA
- Remove lower shock nuts, below the LCA
- Remove upper ball joint
- Lower the jack slowly while holding the assembly so it doesn't flop down and stress the brake lines. A second set of hands would be nice, but isn't completely necessary
- Push down on LCA to get the shock bolts cleared and the lower mount off. The stock shocks have the bolts installed into the shocks and they can't be removed
- Once the bottom of the shock is free, hold the shock with one hand and remove the last remaining upper bolt. The shock and spring are heavy so don't let them drop. Lower it out
- If you bought the 6112s as they come from Bilstein, you'll need to remove the top mounts from the old shocks and install them on the new ones with a spring compressor
- Make sure the top mount on the new assembly is oriented exactly the same as the old one. The studs aren't symmetrical and only go in one way. When I received my assemblies, the orientation wasn't correct so, unfortunately, I had to put a spring compressor on to relieve tension so I could rotate the top mount to the correct orientation
- Install the new assembly by reversing the sequence

One thing I should highlight from the install. As others have posted, getting the rear-most top nut off the shock mount on the passenger side is a bit tricky. But it can be done from the side. To do it, I pulled the plastic mount for the orange wires off so I could move those wires up an inch or two. Then I got a socket on a standard 3/8" ratchet on and went in from the side, behind the strut mount (toward the rear of the truck). It was a pain because my ratchet is an older one and doesn't have enough teeth to have a short swing. But a short swing wrench would help.

A couple other tips:
- I didn't loosen the UCA bolts. I just jacked up the assembly until I could reassemble the upper ball joint and that worked fine
- Remove the upper sway bar link nut first, before you lower anything. Otherwise, if it's at an angle, it will be more difficult to remove
- I bought one of these https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Ratchets/2567-20 a few months ago and it really helps things go quickly. I usually just loosen bolts with a larger wrench or breaker bar, and then get the nuts on and off with this tool. It's even great to speed up lug nut installation and removal

Here are some torques:
- Upper ball joint: 85 ft lb
- Tie rod end: 85 ft lb
- Shock upper nuts: 30 ft lb (loctite)
- Shock lower bolts: 66 ft lb (loctite) per Bilstein
- Halfshaft nut: 20 ft lb
- Stabilizer bar (both ends): 59 ft lb

Nice write up, i did the same to my 21 F150 Lariat Power-boost.
What i did. differently:
I bought a set of top caps and assembled the 6112’s prior to the change as i intend to reuse the removed shocks on my sons 2015 truck. Instead or taking the axle nut off i just loosened it a bit, exposed enough of the stock shocks lower bolts to cut off with a saws all. This made it easy to remove the old shocks without pulling the wheel and prying. Later i pressed out the factory studs and installed new removable bolts like the 6116’s came with. I don’t using the the spring compressors any ore than i have to although there are better ones than the double rod type and i picked up one. Doing it once vs several times in my case makes for less work. Alighmnent was minor and i did do the 2’ setting which got the truck within 1/2’’ of level. I have found there is a fair difference in the different models, Powerboost with towing package and the same with the max towing package. I have both and the max sets up quite a bit more than the reg. I don‘t think i will raise the max at this time as the ride is quite firm as is.
In the past i did the 5100’s on a 2016 and loved the results, the Powerboost being heavier, probably needs the 6112’s in my opinion So i think that. Was a good call.

 

[Bof150larietPB]

Nice write up, i did the same to my 21 F150 Lariat Power-boost.
What i did. differently:
I bought a set of top caps and assembled the 6112’s prior to the change as i intend to reuse the removed shocks on my sons 2015 truck. Instead or taking the axle nut off i just loosened it a bit, exposed enough of the stock shocks lower bolts to cut off with a saws all. This made it easy to remove the old shocks without pulling the wheel and prying. Later i pressed out the factory studs and installed new removable bolts like the 6116’s came with. I don’t using the the spring compressors any ore than i have to although there are better ones than the double rod type and i picked up one. Doing it once vs several times in my case makes for less work. Alighmnent was minor and i did do the 2’ setting which got the truck within 1/2’’ of level. I have found there is a fair difference in the different models, Powerboost with towing package and the same with the max towing package. I have both and the max sets up quite a bit more than the reg. I don‘t think i will raise the max at this time as the ride is quite firm as is.
In the past i did the 5100’s on a 2016 and loved the results, the Powerboost being heavier, probably needs the 6112’s in my opinion So i think that. Was a good call.

Im getting my 6112 installed next week on my 21 powerboost with max tow. I was thinking about going 2.5 on the setting. You said you went with 2inch setting and got pretty close to level, does your truck look more level or can still you still notice the lean?

You think the ride quality will be a big change from 2 to 2.5?

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