diambo4life
Well-known member
There's really no reason to select 2H at all and I'm surprised they even left the button in place.
There is. One word. Burnouts.....
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There's really no reason to select 2H at all and I'm surprised they even left the button in place.
There are a few different variables with this swap that create dozens of different potential configurations. I certainly wouldn't argue that each and every potential swap configuration has had all the kinks worked out, but if you stick with a configuration that Ford offered from the factory, the swap is fairly straight forward. The biggest hurdle for most people is just determining which parts they need and what specific configuration they want.so how many guys we got that have successfully added 4a onto their XLTs now, like 3 or 4? mix between lariat and raptor cases? i'm still watching you guys work out the kinks before i tackle it on my job 1 21.
It's simple for TOD. Going with a raptor/tremor style to PB requires a custom driveshaft I believe since there's no factory option for the length required when PB+hi-loc are variables.so how many guys we got that have successfully added 4a onto their XLTs now, like 3 or 4? mix between lariat and raptor cases? i'm still watching you guys work out the kinks before i tackle it on my job 1 21.
on the driveshaft piece and raptor case...wasnt it decided that 6.5s did have that issue?It's simple for TOD. Going with a raptor/tremor style to PB requires a custom driveshaft I believe since there's no factory option for the length required when PB+hi-loc are variables.
You need the ATCM (switch near driver's right knee)
The 21 lariat TCCM
and the TOD transfer case.
Yes. The ATCM units have the same circuit boards. The unit installed in the non 4a switch is just a blank non-operational button. I took apart my ESOF unit and found the circuit board to be the same unit as the one containing the 4a button. Just 2 cheap plastic parts would be enough to convert the ESOF ATCM into the 4a unit. If you're doing an HVAC module swap, it's the perfect time to toss in the 4a unit if you plan on doing the conversion.Hey all you smart guys, can I install the 4A dash switch now without either the TCCM or TC? And will the ESOF in my XLT continue to function?
Because I can get this done first and then install the TC later once I find one.Okay, I’ll bite, why would you do this?
With the right trim tool, you could probably pop the switch out and replace it in under 60 seconds. If you remove the center console trim to press in the tabs on the back of the switch and carefully push it out, it still only takes a few minutes to replace.Doesn’t the switch pop straight out on these trucks? My recollection from having one apart (2 years ago) is no disassembly required for this switch, just gotta force it out.
Thanks. I have taken the dash apart in the past for the hill descent upgrade, but that was a lot more complicated.With the right trim tool, you could probably pop the switch out and replace it in under 60 seconds. If you remove the center console trim to press in the tabs on the back of the switch and carefully push it out, it still only takes a few minutes to replace.
K - that’s what was thinking, also why I was wondering why someone would change just the switch. (Not directed at you, just closing the loop on my comment).With the right trim tool, you could probably pop the switch out and replace it in under 60 seconds. If you remove the center console trim to press in the tabs on the back of the switch and carefully push it out, it still only takes a few minutes to replace.
No worries. Legit question.K - that’s what was thinking, also why I was wondering why someone would change just the switch. (Not directed at you, just closing the loop on my comment).