How to build wiring/harnesses?

[dolsen]

This is a bit more of a pure electrical question/thread, as opposed to anything specific to this truck.

Does anyone have any good information or videos they recommend on how to actually build wiring and harnesses? I have done minor electrical work in the past, but more facility related. I've wired up lights and switches and stuff, but never anything vehicle specific. Is there anything I need to know or look for? Any recommendations for places to buy parts?

I've purchased a few things from mouser earlier today to build my harness for the level sensors, and I plan to make the harness and run the wiring myself. It's just new to me and I haven't done any real electrical work in about a decade, and I don't want to half ass building this harness/plug/terminals, because I HATE redoing work lol

Any and all tips/tricks/hints are welcome

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[WD8CXB]

Check out https://www.waytekwire.com/ I find them to have the best selection for my automotive wiring needs. There are other distributors I buy from, like Mouser. Digi-Key, Newark, etc.

 

[dolsen]

Check out https://www.waytekwire.com/ I find them to have the best selection for my automotive wiring needs. There are other distributors I buy from, like Mouser. Digi-Key, Newark, etc.

Love the suggestion, thanks!

Any videos on how to build this stuff? I have a really good idea of how it is done, but it is always nice to see some video reassurance

 

[antho]

Mouser is a good start. Most of the connectors are going to be Molex. If you look at the wiring diagrams from ford the connector view will also give you the pin part numbers. Also highly recommend Tesa tape. Attached is the motorcraft connector catalog. Assuming you have the diagrams needed etc if you have started ordering.?

 

[Je1279]

I've made a few harnesses in the past. You will need crimpers that will work for the terminals you are using, the correct terminals, the correct housings/plugs for both ends and a pin removal tool for when you inevitability place a terminal in the wrong location. Also, the shipping charge usually exceeds the cost of the actual harness components.

 

[WD8CXB]

Love the suggestion, thanks!

Any videos on how to build this stuff? I have a really good idea of how it is done, but it is always nice to see some video reassurance

I don't know of any videos. The only advice I can give, and this is a personal preference, is don't use electrical tape. I hate the sticky residue. For commercial/residential wiring, electrical tape is a given, but heat shrink is my choice for automotive wiring. If you do use electrical tape don't buy the cheap stuff that will fall off when it gets warm. I prefer 3m Scotch 88 or Scotch 33+ depending on the application.

I also like to put a little RTV sealer in heat shrink before applying heat to my splices, soldered or crimped. There is heat shrink with sealer already applied. This works well, but I am cheap. The RTV sealer I use does not harm copper materials. I add the RTV when I know the connections will get wet or subjected to salt as here in Northern Ohio.

Oh, one other thing. Don't fall for the marketing gimmick about gold connectors. Gold is not as good of a "conductor" as copper. What a gold fitting will provide you is zero corrosion, not better conductivity. Silver is your best conductor, and with limited corrosion, it will tarnish over time. Can't tell you how many times a Radio Shack salesperson tried to tell me GOLD connectors are the best conductor!!!

Make sure all connections are tight, so bad connections do not cause resistance which results in induced heat. (The electrons really get heated when they have to jump over a bad connection. They tend to be lazy and always want the easiest path with the least amount of resistance. )

Unfortunately, I have not heard of any houses burning down because of faulty plumbing.

The bottom line, use good quality products, and you will not have any problems. With today's vehicles wiring is not the area to be cheap.

I am a former electrician who decided pulling Romex through holes every day was not for me. Went back to school and got my degree in electrical engineering. Because of that, I am a hands-on engineer.

 

[dolsen]

I've made a few harnesses in the past. You will need crimpers that will work for the terminals you are using, the correct terminals, the correct housings/plugs for both ends and a pin removal tool for when you inevitability place a terminal in the wrong location. Also, the shipping charge usually exceeds the cost of the actual harness components.

Lol, yea I learned about the cost this morning. I think I spend $18, and 9 of that was shipping and taxes. I have a REALLY good handle and damn near anything mechanical, not pHD level knowledge, but I'm pretty good. But with electrical, I'm still very elementary

 

[dolsen]

Mouser is a good start. Most of the connectors are going to be Molex. If you look at the wiring diagrams from ford the connector view will also give you the pin part numbers. Also highly recommend Tesa tape. Attached is the motorcraft connector catalog. Assuming you have the diagrams needed etc if you have started ordering.?

Yea I pulled all of the diagrams I needed from PTS, I found the appropriate connectors as well. I bought molex ones instead of the motorcraft pre-built ones (Ford wanted about $35 for each connector, I can build 2 for under 20. I have figured out pretty well how to read Ford wiring diagrams after studying all of the diagrams for the headlamp wiring, HSW, and the powered steering column.

I have heard of and used Tesa tape a lot, but it's been so damn long I don't remember any specifics about it.

This is the connector for the front and rear level sensor, but I don't see pin part numbers (are you referring to terminals as pins or something else?)

 

[powerboatr]

Mouser is a good start. Most of the connectors are going to be Molex. If you look at the wiring diagrams from ford the connector view will also give you the pin part numbers. Also highly recommend Tesa tape. Attached is the motorcraft connector catalog. Assuming you have the diagrams needed etc if you have started ordering.?

great download, its my go to point for identifying the ford ends, thanks for the link for all
digi key is also my run to

 

[dolsen]

I don't know of any videos. The only advice I can give, and this is a personal preference, is don't use electrical tape. I hate the sticky residue. For commercial/residential wiring, electrical tape is a given, but heat shrink is my choice for automotive wiring. If you do use electrical tape don't buy the cheap stuff that will fall off when it gets warm. I prefer 3m Scotch 88 or Scotch 33+ depending on the application.

I also like to put a little RTV sealer in heat shrink before applying heat to my splices, soldered or crimped. There is heat shrink with sealer already applied. This works well, but I am cheap. The RTV sealer I use does not harm copper materials. I add the RTV when I know the connections will get wet or subjected to salt as here in Northern Ohio.

Oh, one other thing. Don't fall for the marketing gimmick about gold connectors. Gold is not as good of a "conductor" as copper. What a gold fitting will provide you is zero corrosion, not better conductivity. Silver is your best conductor, and with limited corrosion, it will tarnish over time. Can't tell you how many times a Radio Shack salesperson tried to tell me GOLD connectors are the best conductor!!!

Make sure all connections are tight, so bad connections do not cause resistance which results in induced heat. (The electrons really get heated when they have to jump over a bad connection. They tend to be lazy and always want the easiest path with the least amount of resistance. )

Unfortunately, I have not heard of any houses burning down because of faulty plumbing.

The bottom line, use good quality products, and you will not have any problems. With today's vehicles wiring is not the area to be cheap.

I am a former electrician who decided pulling Romex through holes every day was not for me. Went back to school and got my degree in electrical engineering. Because of that, I am a hands-on engineer.

Thanks for the note about the gold. I figured silver and copper were fine.

definitely prefer the clean look of heat shrink so I'll definitely keep that in mind. I recently got a wiring harness from someone that built it for me and it appeared he used clear RTV as well.

What types of crimpers are needed for these? I'm assuming the male and the female will use the same crimper

 

[WD8CXB]

Thanks for the note about the gold. I figured silver and copper were fine.

definitely prefer the clean look of heat shrink so I'll definitely keep that in mind. I recently got a wiring harness from someone that built it for me and it appeared he used clear RTV as well.

What types of crimpers are needed for these? I'm assuming the male and the female will use the same crimper

I typically purchase the crimper that is recommended by the manufacturer. They can sometimes be expensive. In a pinch, I will strip the wire, insert it into the crimp connector, then use a pair of needle nose pliers, to work the barrel of the pin around the wire. I will then solder the wire and barrel. Doing it this way works well, but it requires a lot of patience. Applying too much solder and the pin will not properly fit the connector housing, not applying enough solder results in a bad connection.

 

[Je1279]

I typically purchase the crimper that is recommended by the manufacturer. They can sometimes be expensive. In a pinch, I will strip the wire, insert it into the crimp connector, then use a pair of needle nose pliers, to work the barrel of the pin around the wire. I will then solder the wire and barrel. Doing it this way works well, but it requires a lot of patience. Applying too much solder and the pin will not properly fit the connector housing, not applying enough solder results in a bad connection.

There are also crimpers where you can swap out the dies for different types of terminals. Here is an example (I know nothing about this particular brand, just grabbed a picture off google).

 

[antho]

This is the connector for the front and rear level sensor, but I don't see pin part numbers (are you referring to terminals as pins or something else?)

Yeah. I was referring to the terminals. Just have to click on the "check for terminal part numbers box"

 

[antho]

For crimpers, You need a open barrel crimper.

 

[dolsen]

Yeah. I was referring to the terminals. Just have to click on the "check for terminal part numbers box"

Oooooooo thanks I didn’t realize that

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