But a few random people on the Internet said removing the ground was perfectly fine
It's not always about being cheap. I can see how a transfer switch can easily work in a house with only a single panel 200A service. Not so easy in a house like ours with a 400A service, 200A sub panel for the back side of the house, 90A sub panel for my workshop and a 100A sub panel for ev charging.
The 30 amps supplied by the Powerboost is not enough power for your situation
It has worked great for me on several occasions including the 6 days we lost power early this year. It ran both gas furnaces, two refrigerators, all lightening, TV's, cappuccino maker etc. Agree, would not be enough for two AC units during the summer or charing the Tesla but it was a life saver for those 6 days! Even went over to a friends house after our power returned to power his furnaces to warm up his house.
Won't work. Don't make a dedicated ground rod for the truck like the vid (it'll likely still trip, while not offering any benefit). It doesn't take much to trip the truck's breaker. The HVDC side of the truck is wholly isolated. The -12 of the truck is connected to the frame in typical fashion, as is the AC inverter's ground. They're not bonded like a traditional generator in that the GFI is watching the ground (aka the frame).
Will it matter if the ground is floated in the receptacle vs floated in the panel?
Personally I retain as much of the truck's GFI protection as plausible. Make sure the plug receptacle is properly labeled "Isolated ground" or similar. Keep the truck's protection on the cord itself. Make a note at the interlock referencing that fact too. Another option for floating the ground is a physical disconnect device like ACs and water heaters use so that the ground can be connected if situations dictate. You don't want to be fiddling with something like that when it's needed. Ground that box to the generator side as it cannot be energized without the interlock in place. Label, label, and label.
The issue comes when soil conductivity changes and you're using the neutral. Current only flows on the neutral when there's an imbalance on the legs. Powers up one time and works continuously aren't synonymous. The earth is a poor conductor, but one nonetheless -- its conductivity locally changes based on variables, moisture content in particular. When current on the neutral increases, so too does the current flowing between ground rods. The presence of lighting can also cause phantom tripping.
You're always using the neutral, its the return path for current coming down the hot wire(s). Should the loads on the two hot wires be perfectly balanced then maybe, just maybe, the neutral wouldn't have anything flowing... But that'll only happen once in a blue moon. The earth isn't a bad conductor. If you go back to the days of telegraphy, they ran only one wire and the return was through the earth. In this case the earth gound electrode serves to ensure that the sources have a common reference. Your statement about "won't work" is just wrong...
In this instance it's go or no-go, and "won't work" is a no-go because it will nuisance trip while not actually providing any benefit at all. The neutral carries the delta of the unbalanced current. The more current on the neutral, the more current flowing between the ground rods. If you have 10 devices on leg 1 pulling 25a, and 2 devices on leg 2 pulling 24a the flow on the neutral is 1 amp, aka the delta. There's also a miniscule amount of current flowing between the ground rods because both neutrals are bonded. The amount of current flowing depends on the resistance which is determined by many variables. When the current between the ground rods reaches at most .005a, it will trip, but can trip below that point.
I've asked others the same information but they only defer to code.
Everyone here are random people from the internet.But a few random people on the Internet said removing the ground was perfectly fine
