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Highest Supercharged Mileage

JExpedition07

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Does the Raptor R have a specific catalytic converter? That’s 720 HP and I’ve not read of one engine or catalyst issue.
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fecalflinger

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Oh I could pull the plugs and check the gap. I could also install headers and aftermarket cats myself, but I have a 3/36 Ford warranty and a 3/36 Roush warranty that should take care of it. My biggest issue is that my local dealerships aren't willing to work on it. I am currently waiting on the dealership I purchased the truck from to get a new Y pipe with cats in so I can drive 4 hours to let them swap it out. The problem is that they are on back order and wont be in for 2 weeks. Probably because everyone is needing to replace their cats. My other fear is that I drive 4 hours to have them put on the new cats and I still have the problem. I have a feeling I am going to have to leave my truck with them for several weeks and not have a vehicle.
 

Davidwnuc

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Slyder

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I got a reply back from SPD on the cats they offer on their down-pipes and it's something to think about if you ever need to go a similar route.

They said the standard cats are ceramic core and good for about 800rwhp (roughly 400whp per bank/cat) and their optional GESI cats are stainless steel core and good for well over 800rwhp.

I'm likely to go this route but an exhaust set up for the RCSB will end up being a true dual exhaust that will need a bit of custom work done to make it work on it. They offered to help with that if I needed it.
 

TexasTruck

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Intake air temp is another factor in the puzzle.
Sensor 2 is post cat
I added 1 and 2 in OBD Fusion. At first the values were the same. As I drove around sensor 2 was a few degrees cooler. I guess that’s because the CAT absorbs some of the heat.
 

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jorligan

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52000 miles 2021 Platinum. Whipple 3.0 installed and tuned by Livernois. Occasional spirited driving and towing of 26 foot covered aluminum trailer with 3200 lb car. 6300 total weight towed at 75 mph. Borla S-Type cat back exhaust. Running 35 with a Raptor body conversion using OEM Ford parts. We call it the Fraptor.
 

TexasTruck

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Intake air temp is another factor in the puzzle.

I added 1 and 2 in OBD Fusion. At first the values were the same. As I drove around sensor 2 was a few degrees cooler. I guess that’s because the CAT absorbs some of the heat.
I was mistaken… there isn’t a 2nd sensor. Just sensor 1 bank 1 and sensor 1 bank 2.
 

TheGoatman

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don’t have a 5.0 in this truck so not sure but I’ve never seen a cat without a sensor before and after it
 

TexasTruck

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don’t have a 5.0 in this truck so not sure but I’ve never seen a cat without a sensor before and after it
I didn't mean to imply there isn't one :) It could be another PID name or even a bug in OBD Fusion 🤷‍♂️
 

TexasTruck

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Another thing I noticed is the Intake Air Temperature (IAT). It's been in the 70's here and according to OBD Fusion my IAT readings are 90+*.

Is that normal, what's going to happen when it's 100*?
Where is the IAT sensor?
 

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2whiny

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Intake air temp is another factor in the puzzle.

I added 1 and 2 in OBD Fusion. At first the values were the same. As I drove around sensor 2 was a few degrees cooler. I guess that’s because the CAT absorbs some of the heat.

I don’t think there are physical temperature sensors for the cats. Based on what I’ve read, it’s calculated based on an algorithm that’s apparently accurate on stock vehicles. Who knows how the Roush, Whipple or FP tune would affect that.

I use a Banks iDash to monitor the virtual cat temps and they quickly go above 1600 degrees, the point at which COT would start working. This happens on WOT pulls longer than about 3-4 seconds. I’ve read elsewhere that complete meltdown wont occur until 1900+, but I assume sustained temps of 1600+ aren’t awesome. I have an alarm set for 1700 or 1725, I can’t remember, to let me know I need to get out of it. I also have an alarm set for 12+ PSI of boost.

Seems like the guys on the FB pages that lose motors go through the same scenario:

They get a P0430 and then a P0300, figure it’s plugs or an anomaly, swap the plugs and/or clear the code and they keep driving. The cats are already damaged at this point and causes a runaway effect. Blocked exhaust >> high pressures/piston damage >> more misfires >> further cat damage

The moment I see a P0430 or P0300 code, AAA is getting called and my truck will be on a flatbed headed to the dealer. Seems like guys that catch it before the P0430/P0300 show up together end up being okay.
 
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TexasTruck

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I also have an alarm set for 12+ PSI of boost.
Is that a virtual value too? I’m not sure what PID I should monitor or figure out how to calculate in OBD Fusion. Is boost built in to iDash?

Thanks.
 
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2whiny

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Is that a virtual value too? I’m not sure what PID I should monitor or figure out how to calculate in OBD Fusion. Is boost built in to iDash?

Thanks.
The Whipple kits add a MAP sensor, so it’s a real value. I was able to just add the PSI/inHG in the iDash. No calculations or anything. Not sure how it works with OBD Fusion.
 
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TexasTruck

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Not sure how it works with OBD Fusion.
In their app you add PIDs (not sure what that stands for) to a page. In this case I add the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor like so:
Ford F-150 Highest Supercharged Mileage 1708710627636


When the app is connected to the truck, I see it range from 7 to 25 psi when I'm driving normal like. That seems a high to me. 🤷‍♂️
 
 




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