Highest Supercharged Mileage

[TexasTruck]

Just wondering.... and if you don't respond, that's OK.... how would you characterize your driving style?

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[fecalflinger]

Just wondering.... and if you don't respond, that's OK.... how would you characterize your driving style?

I would like to think pretty average for a 40 yr old with a 700 HP truck. I'm not flooring it from red light to red light if that's what you mean. I'd say 90% of the time its normal driving that barely ever gets into the boost. But if a diesel truck or scat pack pulls up, I'm giving her the beans. And If I do lean or her its pretty much a one and done thing. I'm not doing 40-100mph pulls over and over and over again. I've got a multi gauge so I am always checking AFR, EGTs, and boost, etc.

 

[fecalflinger]

I messaged Roush tonight explaining my situation and asked "what am I supposed to do?" It will be interesting to see what they say. I also thought about contacting Ford about it as well, but i am a little afraid of them forcing a dealership that doesn't want to work on it to fix it. The last thing I want is someone that is not comfortable working on it trying to fix it. Might call that "Roush" dealer back and ask for the GM and ask why their service department doesn't service Ford truck with Roush superchargers. maybe the guy I talked to was new?

 

[TexasTruck]

I would like to think pretty average for a 40 yr old with a 700 HP truck.

Thanks. Just wondering because my CAT are a concern too. The FP/Whipple has the safety's in place, including CAT over temp. I imagine Roush does as well, hence the ask.

I've got a multi gauge so I am always checking AFR, EGTs, and boost, etc.

Would you mind sharing what you're using? I have OBD Fusion but I'm not sure what PIDs to watch?

Do these dealerships say why they won't touch it? I mean supposedly when a Ford dealer installs Roush it's the remaining of the 3/36 warrantee. I imagine Ford isn't going to fix it and rather will work with Roush on the diags, parts, labor, etc.

 

[fecalflinger]

Yeah i have a P3 V2 Gauge installed. They have pretty much said they aren't happy dealing with Roush for the warranty or they have had experiences in the past where they weren't able to resolve issues with P0300 and P0430 coides. One dealership said they had an issue with a mustang giving the same codes and they couldn't get it fixed no matter what they did. I pretty much just monitor boost but when I starting getting DTCs I starting monitoring AFR for the most part to make sure I am not running lean. Also look at EGT every once in a while just to see how hot my exhaust is getting. Ive seen temps in 1400 degree range which seems pretty hot, but i don't really know what is safe and what isn't.

 

[Slyder]

I don't have my truck yet, but I've been wondering about the factory cats so I reached out to Whipple and Roush with a few questions.

I got a response from Whipple and had a nice email chat with them, but Roush has yet to even reply back at all.

Like was mentioned, Whipple has all the safety checks in place with their tune, but Whipple mentioned that the most common cause is from misfires from mechanical issues with wrong spark plugs improperly gapped being the biggest cause. They recommend iridium plugs gapped at .028.

My main question to them was what if I replaced the factory cats with an SPD catted down-pipe set up with GESi cats to 'possibly' avoid the cat issue.
Their answer was essentially that installing the cats wouldn't void the 3yr/36000 warranty and they require no additional tuning, but if the Aftermarket cats fail and cause engine or super-charger damage, the warranty won't cover anything.

This is the expensive route I'm thinking about taking, since I asked to have the Whipple kit installed when the truck arrives.

 

[staying_tuned]

Whipple mentioned that the most common cause is from misfires from mechanical issues with wrong spark plugs improperly gapped being the biggest cause. They recommend iridium plugs gapped at .028.

This seems key. The first question 5 Star had when I sent them my post-install data log consisting of idling and a snail’s pace 0-50 was had I changed the plugs. It idled and everything fine, despite this Josh was adamant about the plugs so swapped them out for a set of colder brisks and didn’t think much of it.

@fecalflinger who provided tuning and did they have you do a few rounds of logging iterations on the tune?

 

[TexasTruck]

Whipple mentioned that the most common cause is from misfires from mechanical issues with wrong spark plugs improperly gapped being the biggest cause. They recommend iridium plugs gapped at .028.

I've read the same from the Mustang guys too. The Whipple kits come with new plugs and it looks like Roush includes them too....

Unpack the eight (8) provided spark plugs [FS00056643 (M-12405-50VDE, HYFS-092YPT), found in 1121-KIT2] which are pre-gapped to 0.028-0.031” (0.7-0.8 mm). Use a 0.031” feeler gauge to ensure the gap is intact and none are damaged. The FP/Whipple kit says to gap the plugs at 0.031" as well. I double checked the gap though.

Ive seen temps in 1400 degree range which seems pretty hot, but i don't really know what is safe and what isn't

I've read stock CAT temps can range from 800* to 1500*. Again, it falls back to the tune and how they maintain that range. I monitor Cat Temp Bank 2 Sensor 1 (there is a Sensor 2, but I'm not sure which one is pre or post CAT ). When I take it easy, I'll see 800 to 1100, when I take the RPM up to 3/3.5K I'll see 1400-1500ish.

 

[TheGoatman]

Sensor 2 is post cat

 

[fecalflinger]

This seems key. The first question 5 Star had when I sent them my post-install data log consisting of idling and a snail’s pace 0-50 was had I changed the plugs. It idled and everything fine, despite this Josh was adamant about the plugs so swapped them out for a set of colder brisks and didn’t think much of it.

@fecalflinger who provided tuning and did they have you do a few rounds of logging iterations on the tune?

Its just a stock Roush tune that was provided to the dealership with the install, I doubt they did any kind of data logs. probably just loaded the tune and called it good.

 

[TheGoatman]

If you’re trying to keep cats alive is nailing it down to that specific vehicle really necessary?

you adding fuel to manage temps, not for peak power anyway.

 

[staying_tuned]

Its just a stock Roush tune that was provided to the dealership with the install, I doubt they did any kind of data logs. probably just loaded the tune and called it good.

Gotcha, with Roush's lineage and reputation I would have gone with whatever their base tune was as well. It may be worth a few hundred to send some logs to Livernois or 5 star or even give Palm Beach Dyno a ring. Worst case the few hundred is a wash (although they may review them for free) best case and they prescribe a fix allowing you to maneuver to a fix despite the lack of dealer support.

 

[MetalCord]

From what I remember while discussing power adders in the Mustang forums and FB chats, it's pretty much accepted and understood (in those chats) that once you exceed 600+ horsepower, the stock cats are going to degrade. I believe the consensus was the extra heat from the boost murders your cats. In Florida, anyone with a Mustang or Coyote truck went catless with long tube headers since they don't test for emissions in Florida. Otherwise, the risk is what's already been stated. As the Cat chokes to death, IF YOU'RE LUCKY, you lose all performance and can replace the Cat. If you're unlucky, you self install a window in the block and chuck a rod into low orbit. I'm not sure how the OEM supercharged cars (like hellcats and GT500's) fair with 750+ horsepower since I don't know anyone that has one that hasn't modified it and they've all had issues.

 

[Slyder]

From what I remember while discussing power adders in the Mustang forums and FB chats, it's pretty much accepted and understood (in those chats) that once you exceed 600+ horsepower, the stock cats are going to degrade. I believe the consensus was the extra heat from the boost murders your cats. In Florida, anyone with a Mustang or Coyote truck went catless with long tube headers since they don't test for emissions in Florida. Otherwise, the risk is what's already been stated. As the Cat chokes to death, IF YOU'RE LUCKY, you lose all performance and can replace the Cat. If you're unlucky, you self install a window in the block and chuck a rod into low orbit. I'm not sure how the OEM supercharged cars (like hellcats and GT500's) fair with 750+ horsepower since I don't know anyone that has one that hasn't modified it and they've all had issues.

This is why I've contacted SPD and trying to gather information about their down-pipes with their standard cats and optional GESI cats. I could go the cat-less route, since emissions testing isn't mandatory in my area, but I'd rather not because with the way things are going it's only a matter of time.

 

[diambo4life]

That is so unfortunate. Are you mechanically apt? Why not pull the spark plugs, label them and inspect them? Take photos of each, post them up, check gap size with a feeler gauge.

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