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Happy with 5.0?

Je1279

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i was racking my head the other day to try to figure out how the Ford ones work. Does oil pressure keep them ‘stiff’ and able to work normally and then oil gets cut off in deactivation mode and it makes them like jelly?
I've looked everywhere to find out more about it but since it was developed in house, they are unlikely to provide any specifics on how it works.
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GEN14OWNER

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im kind of off topic lol

im wondering if these magic lifters that can be turned off are the source of the 3200 rpm rattle that a lot of us have been hearing

They took 3 brand new 5.0’s for a drive last week and all of them made the identical sound
I don't think it's "off topic" at all...

I've never noticed it but I'll be listening for it now.

But I bought the Premium Care ESP so I’m not really paying close attention to issues like that. I didn’t spend the extra $2k because I thought it would be “perfect” and stay that way forever.

If it starts when I turn the key, I drive it. When I need to stab the throttle and it snaps my neck, I keep driving it. When it stops doing any of those things (and it might) it’s FORD’S problem…

…for the next 7-years or 100k miles anyway.
 
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Pedaldude

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i was racking my head the other day to try to figure out how the Ford ones work...
I've looked everywhere to find out more about it...
Ford does have some information about the system on their three cylinder ecoboost engine. There’s even some animations of it on YouTube but they don’t really elaborate much. No idea how similar it is to the Coyote’s.



There might be a paper somewhere; since turning a three cylinder into a twin isn’t as sacrilegious as cutting out half the cylinders in a V8.

Mazda has a cylinder deactivation scheme too and they did stuff with Ford in the past.

One thing that is certain, is that as an additional mechanical complexity; it’s an added point of failure. So the main question is if the failure mode is benign or catastrophic to the engine?

Saving a few bucks in gasoline is pretty meaningless when it means that the engine grenades at XX,000 miles and costs $10K. In the same vein, I’m pretty sure that the fossil fuels used for freight of the replacement long block, a technician commuting to work for three days, all the additional lost productivity, recycling costs, etc. will all more than offset the fuel saved.

Even the jake brake on an over the road diesel engine will need to be serviced a couple times or more over the life of the engine.

It would be nice to know what system that they are using and I really would like some way to know if it’s in the V4 mode or not. Even though I really don’t have any interest in avoiding or eliminating the cylinder deactivation. Who knows, maybe the cylinder deactivation is more likely to fail if it’s not used? o_O I know that the ESOF motor on the transfer case can seize if it’s not used for long periods of time.
 

Mtnman1

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im kind of off topic lol

im wondering if these magic lifters that can be turned off are the source of the 3200 rpm rattle that a lot of us have been hearing

They took 3 brand new 5.0’s for a drive last week and all of them made the identical sound
I hear no rattle.
 

Yotemax

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I love how massive our trucks intake manfold is compared to perveous gens and does not have that imrc bs in it, and has a even diameter larger tb. I bought a spare used 2022 intake manifold on ebay the other day. From what i see theres ALOT of material that can be removed and ported out, cant wait for results!
 

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GregBC

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Pretty cool!

What wasn’t clear from the animation was how it prevents the solenoid from deactivating at the wrong time and locking the portion of the lever down but I’m assuming it’s either timed with the cam shaft or designed to allow the lever to always go up before the solenoid locks it in place.
 

SRHAGEN

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I was so impressed by the 4.6 32 V V8 in my 2003 Mach 1 that when the coyote came out in f150 I bought it. I’m very happy. I’ve never driven a ford truck with ecoboost. So I don’t know what I’m missing. I look for 300 K miles out of a drivetrain.
I can say I’ve not been a fan of the heat generated by twin turbos in small displacement engines. It does seem they are here to stay and are lasting longer.
 

Henfield

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In the right circumstances you definitely save on fuel. Best result I have ever gotten is 25.8 which was over 495 miles of interstate from Winchester VA to Boston, summertime and probably no traffic hold ups. The fill up before that was 24.0, but speed limits in VA/NC/SC are higher than PA/NJ/NY/CT/MA so that makes sense.
 

Pedaldude

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What wasn’t clear from the animation was how it prevents the solenoid from deactivating at the wrong time and locking the portion of the lever down but I’m assuming it’s either timed with the cam shaft or designed to allow the lever to always go up before the solenoid locks it in place.
I think it mentions that the ECM does control the timing. The camshaft is 1/2 engine speed and I gather that it’s only used at low RPM; so there’s probably plenty of time (relatively) for the mechanism to activate/deactivate.

The question still remains what happens when there’s a malfunction, or with wear and neglect.

This is all totally ignoring the problems that all cylinder deactivation schemes have had with piston ring and cylinder sealing even when everything is working exactly as it should.
 

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diambo4life

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I was so impressed by the 4.6 32 V V8 in my 2003 Mach 1 that when the coyote came out in f150 I bought it. I’m very happy. I’ve never driven a ford truck with ecoboost. So I don’t know what I’m missing. I look for 300 K miles out of a drivetrain.
I can say I’ve not been a fan of the heat generated by twin turbos in small displacement engines. It does seem they are here to stay and are lasting longer.
Heat can be easily managed. I can tell you right now my N/A Coyote Mustang with a VENTED hood creates more heat than my turbo Mitsubishi which has a decent turbo on it. You wrap all exhaust components under hood with wrap, fabricate a CAI and BAM....no heat issues.
 

tombf150

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I'm happy with mine so far.
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