Great summary: Using 7.2 Pro Power to power your house during an outage + why you cannot disconnect the ground!

[MikeA]

It will put up to 7.55 kW. The difference in the PB's PPOB vs the non hybrid unit is that it can power from the battery alone. There's 800Wh of energy that can be used from the battery before the engine starts, and if the load is below ~1.6kW, the truck runs in hybrid mode vs the standard F150 and 250's PPOB requiring full-time engine running.

For instance running a refer and a freezer, the PB would end up using 1/10th of the gas, or less vs the other PPOB systems. Both the 2.4 and 7.4kW powerboost PPOB work in this manner. Personally I don't think it was even worth offering a 2.4kW unit w/ it. The PPOB trimmed lightnings have both of the PB's inverter options. The 2.4kW in the frunk / cab, and the bed option with the 7.4kw as well offering a combined output of 9.6kW worth of power to tap.

This is independent of the home backup option that allows the lightning to feed its HVB to a separately purchased inverter that stays in the home. This is why the connector used for the charge station pro utilizes the DCFC pins whereas all other home charging uses that stand J1772

Charge station pro w/ HV home back feed

VS all other AC home chargers with J1772

Yeah, I understood how it works. I was just agreeing with what you said about having a PB and not opting for the 7.4 kw. 7.4 is a no brainer if you are already going PB
And was also glad there was a 2kw option for non PB because I really did not want the Hybrid

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[HammaMan]

Yeah, I understood how it works. I was just agreeing with what you said about having a PB and not opting for the 7.4 kw. 7.4 is a no brainer if you are already going PB
And was also glad there was a 2kw option for non PB because I really did not want the Hybrid

Which motor did you go with? For me it'd be 5.0 or hybrid personally.

 

[MikeA]

My engine choice was 3.5 eco.
in last 6 yr I've had 3.5, 2 3.5 TTs and a 5.0. like em all. Only Gonna be pulling a 5500 lb rv so for my 23 Platinum that's overdue haha I went with 3.5TT and the 3.55 gears. Antimatter FX4 Builtin connected nav and 36 gal tank and 2KW Pro Power, pano roof and Carmello interior. Bluecruise minus park assist.
Couldnt get the massage seats and they stole my heated steering wheel.
All in $77,600

 

[Hullguy]

Yeah, no quoting of other 'ME's. One saving grace so to speak about NEC and other such large publications being law, laws are free to obtain. Surge suppression devices only divert L1 / L2 to G under voltage spikes. Unfortunately they've got a max rating. One strike blew up not only the panel surge suppression, but a couple UPS units as well. The strike that was the final straw is the one that zapped me through my mouse and fused the core of a 70kva transformer, as well as literally vaporizing all but one of the shorter interconnect lines (incoming aerial lines were fine). Even the linemen were stunned at the power of the strike saying they've never seen vaporized lines before. There was vaporized aluminum plasma remnants everywhere they were near.

As for floating the PB's ground at the incoming wire to the home being different than other generator interconnections is due to the fact that the generator is protecting itself from becoming energized via the GFCI chassis bonding. Home backup generators, and generators on the ground in general are for the most part just dumb devices with at best an AVR and a generic breaker. The PB's inverter is a different class of device entirely that's drawing its power from the HVB, augmented by the 2 way inverter attached to the motor. Interconnecting to the home as utility does provides same basic operation, but with an even safer set of variables.

If you float the PB ground you have lost all protection from a line to ground short circuit.

 

[HammaMan]

If you float the PB ground you have lost all protection from a line to ground short circuit.

That's flat out false.

 

[Hullguy]

That's flat out false.

You are wrong!
the ground is designed to have absolutely no resistance so that if there is a short circuit to ground there is a huge amount of current. This causes an instantaneous build up of heat causing the breaker to trip. It’s called the inverse time element.
If you feel that the bond at the panel between the neutral and ground will allow this you are wrong. The neutral has resistance between it and the hot leg. This resistance is still there which Won’t allow the breaker to trip

 

[AdventureBegins]

Great video. I think since, thankfully, we have a stable grid around my area, I'll follow his advice and just run some extension cords (proper gage) to a few key items and power up some lights when needed. There are some videos on how to install an electical plug for a furnace.

 

[HammaMan]

You are wrong!
the ground is designed to have absolutely no resistance so that if there is a short circuit to ground there is a huge amount of current. This causes an instantaneous build up of heat causing the breaker to trip. It’s called the inverse time element.
If you feel that the bond at the panel between the neutral and ground will allow this you are wrong. The neutral has resistance between it and the hot leg. This resistance is still there which Won’t allow the breaker to trip

You pay for the parts and I'll make the lab assembly/demo to show as such. The powerboost doesn't have circuit breakers on its 30a outlet, it's all electronically controlled. (I believe the ones on the plugs themselves are also 'reset buttons', not actual breakers.

 

[Hullguy]

You pay for the parts and I'll make the lab assembly/demo to show as such. The powerboost doesn't have circuit breakers on its 30a outlet, it's all electronically controlled. (I believe the ones on the plugs themselves are also 'reset buttons', not actual breakers.

I’ve learned long ago it’s not a good idea to short anything out, even while testing. Always leads to problems

 

[HammaMan]

Well there's an easier way to test it without shorting 120v AC. I've got a battery bank here w/ 27k amps rated capacity. How much current do you think that bonding screw can take before it melts? My guess is that it should be able to trip a 100a breaker w/ out issue.

I'll see what's the highest rated $5 breaker HD has and grab it and a new panel to test it out.

Have to go get other parts for this project....

 

[Hullguy]

Well there's an easier way to test it without shorting 120v AC. I've got a battery bank here w/ 27k amps rated capacity. How much current do you think that bonding screw can take before it melts? My guess is that it should be able to trip a 100a breaker w/ out issue.

I'll see what's the highest rated $5 breaker HD has and grab it and a new panel to test it out.

Have to go get other parts for this project....

I’d spend more time and money on the speaker project than the test!

 

[DT444T]

Ok so look...

I don't understand any of this "bonded" and "floating" shenanigans. And the more I read this, the less I understand. So I'm throwing it out there that I'm dumb. I'm not an electrician and I think my dad knows enough to get me in trouble.

That being said...

We made up a suicide cord that goes from the truck's L14-30 to a 10-50R (I googled for these, I don't know what they are off the top of my head). I turned off the 100amp breaker in the house that goes down to my shop. I then turned off the 50 amp breaker IN THE SHOP. I plugged the cord into the wall with the circuit breakers off and then into the truck and powered on the PPOB. I then flipped the 50amp breaker back on in the shop and voila! the shop had power.

My question is, OTHER THAN THE SUICIDE CORD (which I understand the danger in), is this dangerous? Do we have some kind of dangerous neutral or grounding issue?

Thanks in advance and remember, I'm dumb.

 

[Snakebitten]

Not from where I sit. I feel perfectly safe.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

I'm like you and don't know enough to weigh the risk assessment. But that IS what it is. A risk assessment.

I bet you do riskier things every day.
Just leaving your driveway can be dangerous.

 

[Hullguy]

Not from where I sit. I feel perfectly safe.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

I'm like you and don't know enough to weigh the risk assessment. But that IS what it is. A risk assessment.

I bet you do riskier things every day.
Just leaving your driveway can be dangerous.

Ok so look...

I don't understand any of this "bonded" and "floating" shenanigans. And the more I read this, the less I understand. So I'm throwing it out there that I'm dumb. I'm not an electrician and I think my dad knows enough to get me in trouble.

That being said...

We made up a suicide cord that goes from the truck's L14-30 to a 10-50R (I googled for these, I don't know what they are off the top of my head). I turned off the 100amp breaker in the house that goes down to my shop. I then turned off the 50 amp breaker IN THE SHOP. I plugged the cord into the wall with the circuit breakers off and then into the truck and powered on the PPOB. I then flipped the 50amp breaker back on in the shop and voila! the shop had power.

My question is, OTHER THAN THE SUICIDE CORD (which I understand the danger in), is this dangerous? Do we have some kind of dangerous neutral or grounding issue?

Thanks in advance and remember, I'm dumb.

Yes it’s very dangerous!!! It’s why you hire a professional to do the job you know nothing about so you don’t kill or hurt someone

 

[Snakebitten]

That response is so boiler plate.

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