Full Synthetic vs Synthetic Blend

[Gord0]

Would be interesting if this helps GDI backside valve cleaning to reduce or eliminate the need for catch cans and/or walnut blasting.

edit: Just found this mega thread with pics if you hadn't seen it:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/valvoline-restore-protect.381635/

With DI and port injection buildup will be very limited to none. The buildup doesn't come from oil in the intake system anyway, so a catch can won't help with that. It's from exhaust gas reversion.

I'm running the Valvoline restore and protect currently, and will put it in again in another 2k miles for my regular 5k interval. Sitting at about 55k on the truck right now. Ford semi syn is great stuff, but when I can do it myself with full syn for cheaper, why not.

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[UGADawg96]

With DI and port injection buildup will be very limited to none. The buildup doesn't come from oil in the intake system anyway, so a catch can won't help with that. It's from exhaust gas reversion.

I'm running the Valvoline restore and protect currently, and will put it in again in another 2k miles for my regular 5k interval. Sitting at about 55k on the truck right now. Ford semi syn is great stuff, but when I can do it myself with full syn for cheaper, why not.

I was speaking about engines without port injection, like the 3.0 eco, etc. Looking at a 25 explorer ST and wondering if this R&P would be better than Kirkland/Supertech in that regard.

 

[Gord0]

I was speaking about engines without port injection, like the 3.0 eco, etc.

Even with those the valve buildup doesn't come from oil in the system. It comes from exhaust gas reversion. I'd rather have some gas and water vapor, running through the system anyway to help keep the valves cleaned. Add into that new oils that dissolve carbon buildup and added complexity with more parts to fail and a catch can just seems like a lose lose add on.

 

[Calson]

All engine motor oils were reformulated for the 2017 engines to allow for lower viscosity oils to improve fuel economy. All oils that meet the new SAE specifications are as good as any other at this time for gas engines. Ford for the 3.5L in my truck specifies a synthetic blend and so that is what I use. The engineers at Ford know a lot more than anyone else about the lubrication requirements of their engines.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

With DI and port injection buildup will be very limited to none. The buildup doesn't come from oil in the intake system anyway, so a catch can won't help with that. It's from exhaust gas reversion.

There were still be valve deposits with the dual fuel injection. It will be considerably less than the direct injection only systems. The dual fuel injection system does not completely remove this issue…….its still there.

Catch cans or oil separators are, and always have been, use for different purposes than valve deposits. It’s about removing the fuel and moisture contaminants in the oil. Those contents are what creates sludge. You don’t want that crap in a modern engine with variable valve timing and what not.

Cans or oil separators are very effective for the purposes they were designed for. The recent marketing for these being a fix all for valve deposits is absolutely false.

 

[HammaMan]

There were still be valve deposits with the dual fuel injection. It will be considerably less than the direct injection only systems. The dual fuel injection system does not completely remove this issue…….its still there.

Catch cans or oil separators are, and always have been, use for different purposes than valve deposits. It’s about removing the fuel and moisture contaminants in the oil. Those contents are what creates sludge. You don’t want that crap in a modern engine with variable valve timing and what not.

Cans or oil separators are very effective for the purposes they were designed for. The recent marketing for these being a fix all for valve deposits is absolutely false.

Getting the oil up to temp is what boils off the water and the fuel that gets into it. Water is a byproduct of combustion - with each gallon of gas burned creating at least 2 gallons of water. This is also why aircraft leave contrails -- they're literally dumping water vapor out of the engines as combustion byproducts.

 

[boo radley]

Mobil 1 full synthetic changed every 9000 miles.

2008 5.4 240,000 traded in still running like a top.
2013 5.0 225,200 still driving it and runs great.
2021 3.5 22,000

I have never had to change a timing chain or cam phaser. Using quality oil is money in the bank.

I won't use anything else.

 

[Walter Townsend]

Amsoil Signature Series full Synthetic as soon as the first oil change is due and each time there after.

The finance manager asked my why when I tend to only have the vehicle for the length of the lease, but as an Amsoil dealer, I really like the quality of the oils and use them whenever they are available for all my equipment.

 

[PaulGrun]

This is also why aircraft leave contrails -- they're literally dumping water vapor out of the engines as combustion byproducts.

I don’t think so. Jet contrails are a result of water vapor in the air being compressed by the engine, not combustion byproducts.

 

[HammaMan]

I don’t think so. Jet contrails are a result of water vapor in the air being compressed by the engine, not combustion byproducts.

Both -- burning 11.4 tons of fuel an hour (767's burn rate) would yield nearly 7,000 gallons of water vapor which quickly freezes.

 

[mredwin25]

mobil 1 every 5k, it’s all you need, everyone knows it’s a damn good oil

 

[Rinn69]

Mobil 1 and change every 5K miles or 12 months.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

Getting the oil up to temp is what boils off the water and the fuel that gets into it. Water is a byproduct of combustion - with each gallon of gas burned creating at least 2 gallons of water. This is also why aircraft leave contrails -- they're literally dumping water vapor out of the engines as combustion byproducts.

What……..contrails aren’t chemtrails? Your take on aircraft is incorrect. Contrails are a direct result of the compression of the cold atmosphere air, being heated, then released out the engine. 80% of the air through the engine is only compressed through the N1. Contrary to your opinion, only a small amount of the air that passes through the engine is used for combustion.


I’m fully aware of what you stated.
But for those who drive short trips, as in less than 20 miles, the engine oil doesn’t get hot enough, for long enough, to burn off said condensation from the oil. This is the mocha looking goo that is collected in the can.

This is where an oil separator comes in.

 

[ks54703]

Since 1994 been putting in what FORD recommends at the same FORD dealer. NOT one engine related issue and the Spouse drove her 94 Limited Explorer for over a 100K in 16 years. 95 E350 service van went 250K on FORD recommended oil at FORD recommended times. The Spouses 19 Escape 2.0EB and the present 22 XLT 2.7 EB are getting the same old treatment at the same old FORD dealership.

Most important part regularly scheduled services are done when they are recommended with recommended products. Easiest way out.

71 years young and did many of oil changes over the years and still doing these things on my collector cars but not my daily rides.

OIL and OIL FILTER every change. As for personal choice of oil ain't going to start that discussion any more.

 

[Samson16]

Motorcraft full synthetic with oil and filter change every 5k.

I need to schedule one now in fact lol.

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