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F150-2015-2021 - Wheel Offset Guide and Truth

satexas

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There's a lot of confusion about offsets and tires, and I got some hard answers today that will clear up a LOT of things for most of us. Here's my example and facts :

A Our F150's come with factory (all models) rims set at +44 offset (positive offset moves tire 'towards' hub, away from fender)

B. Factory tires (measuring from tread) start off about 3/4 inside fender itself - this is super-important if you're trying to determine what 'offset' you need to make your new rims and tires flush or 'stick out'. (I measured this on a 2021 f150 myself)

C. Generally accepted terms speaking, "Aggressive" look is about 0.5-1.5 inches sticking out, and "Super Aggressive" is 1.5 inches and up

Real Case Scenario (me)

My rims : Going from factory 20" pvd chrome 8.5" wide to 9" wide RBP 94R Chrome Wheels

Goal : Aggressive look - stick out about an inch. Here's how the math works :

1. New rim is 9" wide, not 8.5", so that's 1/2 in wider - HOWEVER, you must divide that in half because it pushes the rim 1/4 inch inside and 1/4 outside (widens both ways)

So I start off 1/4 inch further out. So with an equal +44 offset rim, I'm sitting 1/4 inch out, still about 1/2 inch inside fender (remember 3/4" default inset explained above)

2. Need to determine offset - my rim comes in many different offsets. If I go +44 offset, I stay at 1/2" inside fender, but I would like to be about 3/4-1" outside for a slightly aggressive look.

So I choose a +0 offset rim. The difference here is going from +44 to +0, which is 44mm, which equals 1.73 inches.

Since after step one I was 1/2 inch INSIDE the fender, this now moves me about 1.25" OUTSIDE the fender - which is rougly my goal.

According to "Trevor" at RimzOne, where I purchased my rims, he says that despite all this math - it' s not perfect science, and that it's always a little more inset than the math says. He says that with going with this 9" rim and 9" wide tire, there's no way I can get close to 2" out - my only fear. He says I'll actually look about 1" out total, my goal. I asked about 2021 trucks having a possible wider default stance than 2015-2020 (unconfirmed) and he says they've done 2021's and yes, what he's saying is accurate and with my choices I will end up 1" out. - my goal. Assures me I won't need to return them if he's wrong - but that of course I can.

What I need to be careful about - I can put up to 12.5" tires on these 9" rims, and that would change the width - another factor... but I'm not, I'm going with 9" nitto ridge grapplers, keeping it around 33" (like factory) on total width, which according to RDP, will be perfect to what I'm after.

Summary : Lot of 'moving parts' in figuring out offsets related to reaching your goal, and one thing hardly mentioned is how far in the original tire starts at - which is about 3/4 inch inside to begin with - so you HAVE to keep that in mind once you start your wheel math. If Ford trucks had a +25 offset, they'd be flush with fender, but they're +44.

Assuming all things flush, here's a calculator that can be handy : https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator


My Tires : https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/nitto-ridge-grappler
My Rims : https://rimzoneonline.com/catalog/p...0x9-rbp-94r-chrome-w/black-inserts-6x135-0mm/

My Tire Choice/Research : I considered Toyo's over Grapplers, but after watching videos and research, I found that the Grapplers last a little longer, ride less noisy, and ride a little smoother than the Toyo's, and the 'look' is about mostly the same. If I was going 4x4 country all the time, I'd give Toya a slight edge. Also a good tire (and even slighly better ride) would be Continental Terrain Contact A/T tires, and Continentals are about $50/tire cheaper.
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Svt40

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I've been looking for a set of wheels as well. Currently I have AR-311's on my '04. Not sure I want to put them on the newer truck as I want them to sit flush with the wheel well. So the whole offset and rim width thing is killing me trying to find something I think will sit just inside or flush with the body.

It also seems I'll be stuck getting my wheels powder-coated as all the bronze colored wheels are the off road style. Pretty sure bronze is going to be the new black.
 
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satexas

satexas

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I've been looking for a set of wheels as well. Currently I have AR-311's on my '04. Not sure I want to put them on the newer truck as I want them to sit flush with the wheel well. So the whole offset and rim width thing is killing me trying to find something I think will sit just inside or flush with the body.

It also seems I'll be stuck getting my wheels powder-coated as all the bronze colored wheels are the off road style. Pretty sure bronze is going to be the new black.
Well, the answer lies in you needing to know what offset your current AR-311's are.

One needs to keep in mind that not all custom rims, even the same models, have the same offsets. My rims, for example, come in like 4 different offset choices.... +44, -12, 0, +10

I believe you are after around a +20 offset rim ... ASSUMING variables like you're not using a super-wide tire, etc etc etc (as explained above in my example)
 
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This is good info especially the set back of the stock tires. Think you mixed up your -44 and +44 after the first line up there but otherwise this is solid info. I'm going to be adding a 4" BDS lift with 20x9 +1mm Fuel D610 Maverick Black & Milled wheels and 35x12.5R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Considering that 3/4" set back of the stock tires then the math works out like this:

Stock 3/4" Set Back
20x9 +1mm wheels moves the offset to 1.19" outside fender (.25" for the wheel width difference and 1.69" due to the 43mm offset difference from +1 to +44
35x12.5R20 Tires are 1.7"'s wider than the stock 275/65R18's (10.8" wide vs. 12.5" wide) so half of that width is .85"'s added to 1.19"'s is 2.04"'s outside the fender

2" is the perfect offset I am looking for, don't want massive offset, but want it far enough out so I can add the AirDesigns Off-Road Pocket Flares (Same ones that are in the SEMA build in my profile pic) to the truck which should perfectly cover those tires and make me fully street legal in California (Yes people get tickets for too much poke out here, unless your eating avocado toast, then you just get a warning).

Thanks for the info, helped me verify I was accurate to that 2" offset!
 

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satexas

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This is good info especially the set back of the stock tires. Think you mixed up your -44 and +44 after the first line up there but otherwise this is solid info.
yeah, oops, I fixed the typo.

Very glad this helped you... hope it helps many others and saves pain.
 

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There's a lot of confusion about offsets and tires, and I got some hard answers today that will clear up a LOT of things for most of us. Here's my example and facts :

A Our F150's come with factory (all models) rims set at +44 offset (positive offset moves tire 'towards' hub, away from fender)

B. Factory tires (measuring from tread) start off about 3/4 inside fender itself - this is super-important if you're trying to determine what 'offset' you need to make your new rims and tires flush or 'stick out'. (I measured this on a 2021 f150 myself)

C. Generally accepted terms speaking, "Aggressive" look is about 0.5-1.5 inches sticking out, and "Super Aggressive" is 1.5 inches and up

Real Case Scenario (me)

My rims : Going from factory 20" pvd chrome 8.5" wide to 9" wide RBP 94R Chrome Wheels

Goal : Aggressive look - stick out about an inch. Here's how the math works :

1. New rim is 9" wide, not 8.5", so that's 1/2 in wider - HOWEVER, you must divide that in half because it pushes the rim 1/4 inch inside and 1/4 outside (widens both ways)

So I start off 1/4 inch further out. So with an equal +44 offset rim, I'm sitting 1/4 inch out, still about 1/2 inch inside fender (remember 3/4" default inset explained above)

2. Need to determine offset - my rim comes in many different offsets. If I go +44 offset, I stay at 1/2" inside fender, but I would like to be about 3/4-1" outside for a slightly aggressive look.

So I choose a +0 offset rim. The difference here is going from +44 to +0, which is 44mm, which equals 1.73 inches.

Since after step one I was 1/2 inch INSIDE the fender, this now moves me about 1.25" OUTSIDE the fender - which is rougly my goal.

According to "Trevor" at RimzOne, where I purchased my rims, he says that despite all this math - it' s not perfect science, and that it's always a little more inset than the math says. He says that with going with this 9" rim and 9" wide tire, there's no way I can get close to 2" out - my only fear. He says I'll actually look about 1" out total, my goal. I asked about 2021 trucks having a possible wider default stance than 2015-2020 (unconfirmed) and he says they've done 2021's and yes, what he's saying is accurate and with my choices I will end up 1" out. - my goal. Assures me I won't need to return them if he's wrong - but that of course I can.

What I need to be careful about - I can put up to 12.5" tires on these 9" rims, and that would change the width - another factor... but I'm not, I'm going with 9" nitto ridge grapplers, keeping it around 33" (like factory) on total width, which according to RDP, will be perfect to what I'm after.

Summary : Lot of 'moving parts' in figuring out offsets related to reaching your goal, and one thing hardly mentioned is how far in the original tire starts at - which is about an inch inside to begin with - so you HAVE to keep that in mind once you start your wheel math. If Ford trucks had a +25 offset, they'd be flush with fender, but they're +44.

Assuming all things flush, here's a calculator that can be handy : https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator


My Tires : https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/nitto-ridge-grappler
My Rims : https://rimzoneonline.com/catalog/p...0x9-rbp-94r-chrome-w/black-inserts-6x135-0mm/

My Tire Choice/Research : I considered Toyo's over Grapplers, but after watching videos and research, I found that the Grapplers last a little longer, ride less noisy, and ride a little smoother than the Toyo's, and the 'look' is about mostly the same. If I was going 4x4 country all the time, I'd give Toya a slight edge. Also a good tire (and even slighly better ride) would be Continental Terrain Contact A/T tires, and Continentals are about $50/tire cheaper.
Perhaps a dumb question or already asked, but assuming you’re also not assuming any lift/level to clear this?
 
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Perhaps a dumb question or already asked, but assuming you’re also not assuming any lift/level to clear this?
Lifting won’t affect your offset, etc. Lifting/leveling will allow you to make certain larger tires fit better, without rubbing, etc, as explained in the lifting threads... but again has no bearing on how far your tires do or don’t stick out (offset)
 

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Lifting won’t affect your offset, etc. Lifting/leveling will allow you to make certain larger tires fit better, without rubbing, etc, as explained in the lifting threads... but again has no bearing on how far your tires do or don’t stick out (offset)
I meant whether you had to lift/level to get that tire, wheel and offset combo clear the stock wheel wells and trim because it’s the exact set up I’m also looking at. I also want the aggressive vs very aggressive stance.
 
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Is negative offset bad for your truck? (moving wheels more out)
Most accelerated wear on components is negligible at worst. A wider wheel with negative offset will still follow the angle of the hub, and remain flat, and only introduce wear at the highest levels of suspension compression. The ball joints will take the brunt of any abuse, not the bearings. Jun 21, 2015

Link: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17877/wheel-offset-effect-on-performance
 
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zdjelar

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Wanna make sure i'm doing this right... If i keep stock wheels on my Limited (22 inch), and assuming the same offsets (+44mm) as other wheels.... if i put on a Ridge Grappler 305/45R22 i should get a resulting near flush look with the fender, have no rubbing, maintain the same revolutions (so no need to recalibrate speedometer).

The resulting outer sidewall should be .6" farther out practically neutralizing the .75" stock inset.

Accurate? Am i missing something?
 
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Wanna make sure i'm doing this right... If i keep stock wheels on my Limited (22 inch), and assuming the same offsets (+44mm) as other wheels.... if i put on a Ridge Grappler 305/45R22 i should get a resulting near flush look with the fender, have no rubbing, maintain the same revolutions (so no need to recalibrate speedometer).

The resulting outer sidewall should be .6" farther out practically neutralizing the .75" stock inset.

Accurate? Am i missing something?
I "think" that tire is a 33" (305/45R22) with an inflated width of 12" - so what's the inflated width of the current stock tire?

Offset is neutralized (no width impact there)
Recalibrate is neutralized (no diameter impact there)

But width is different... you SHOULDN'T have crash bar/rubbing issues with the added width, but if you're going from a 9" wide tire to a 12" wide tire, that fattens the tire both inwards and outwards equally, so you have to test it.

I believe the end result will be what you expect - about 3/4 more out, looking 'more flush' or barely sticking out (in a way you won't worry about)
 

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Wanna make sure i'm doing this right... If i keep stock wheels on my Limited (22 inch), and assuming the same offsets (+44mm) as other wheels.... if i put on a Ridge Grappler 305/45R22 i should get a resulting near flush look with the fender, have no rubbing, maintain the same revolutions (so no need to recalibrate speedometer).

The resulting outer sidewall should be .6" farther out practically neutralizing the .75" stock inset.

Accurate? Am i missing something?
Seems like 305 is a bit large for an 8.5" wide stock wheel? But I would have to look at the particular tire specs to see what recommended wheel widths are listed for the 305. If the tire manufacture says 8.5 is wide enough then its wide enough.
 
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Seems like 305 is a bit large for an 8.5" wide stock wheel? But I would have to look at the particular tire specs to see what recommended wheel widths are listed for the 305. If the tire manufacture says 8.5 is wide enough then its wide enough.
Excellent point!

It's listed at 9-11.5 as required.

https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/nitto-ridge-grappler/p/37750
  • SECTION WIDTH 305
  • ASPECT RATIO 45
  • RIM DIAMETER 22
  • OVERALL DIAMETER 32.8"
  • RIM WIDTH RANGE 9.0" - 11.5"
  • WEIGHT 48 LBS
  • TREAD DEPTH 14/32"
  • LOAD INDEX 118
  • LOAD RANGE XL
  • MAX PSI 50 PSI
  • SPEED RATING Up to 118 mph
  • SIDEWALL DESC. BSW - Black Side Wall
  • WARRANTY N/A
 

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