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Explain Leveling to me like I am a 2nd Grader

UNIKRN150

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I'll be Devil's Advocate for a moment on this one.
While the diff is a low point on a lot of vehicles, these trucks seems to have a really low front end, especially with the air dam and the rake that is built into the suspension. Rake is the "tilt" of the vehicle when viewed from the side, where the rear is higher than the front.
Many folks level the truck, which typically involves lifting the front end. There are some considerations when doing this, some are application specific, some not.
Towing:
  • when you lift the front end, then load the bed or attach a heavy trailer, the steering can be negatively affected. It may feel "floatier" in the front, and will tend to wander a bit more. This is because loading the rear end changes the attitude of the front end, and therefor changes the effective alignment.
  • Your headlights WILL not be adjusted correctly if you lift the front end. full stop. most people don't care to re-adjust their headlights, some do. Either way, your headlights will not be aimed correctly after leveling without your adjusting them.
Spacer leveling:
  • Cheap option (it's a puck that goes above the coilover in the spring perches and effectively stacks height)
  • doesn't get you more travel
  • doesn't get you "better" travel
  • looks better than stock
  • changes alignment, perhaps outside of specs

Coilover leveling:
  • More expensive option (this is installing a longer coilover in place of the stock unit, effectively increasing the height between the spring perch and the lower control arm where the coilover mounts).
  • may get you more travel, depending on product
  • may get you "better" travel, depending on the product (more control, less body roll, etc.)
  • looks better than stock
  • changes alignment, perhaps outside of specs (you can mitigate this with quality control arms that will effectively "fix" your caster issues after leveling your truck

for me? I plan on leveling the truck with valved coilovers when they're available that let me dial in the ride the way I want it. I will be adding upper control arms as well, and will retain some of the rake of the vehicle as I plan to tow with this rig and do not want a front-high tow. this means I MAY have to add a 1-inch block in the rear if I can't get valved coilovers in a low enough height.

If you want input on upper control arms, I can help with that too, but it may be another thread, and nothing is really available quite yet (no Camburg or Icon at this point for 2021 F-150's- and yes, I called Icon to confirm).

I hope this helps!
Thank you for the detailed post. I'm seriously reconsidering leveling now. At least right away.
 

PungoteagueDave

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Ah, ok so I did remember that right. So @aika1's comments only apply to trims without the level sensor and headlight adjustments?
Correct - there’s a lot of FUD being spread above (fear, uncertainty and doubt). All higher end trims on current model F-series Ford pickup trucks have self-leveling headlights. Unless you do something really extreme to take your truck WAY out of level, your headlights will always stay in line and not blind oncoming traffic. That includes aftermarket leveling kits, or squat while towing a heavy load - all will be compensated for by the leveling system.
 
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I'll be Devil's Advocate for a moment on this one.
While the diff is a low point on a lot of vehicles, these trucks seems to have a really low front end, especially with the air dam and the rake that is built into the suspension. Rake is the "tilt" of the vehicle when viewed from the side, where the rear is higher than the front.
Many folks level the truck, which typically involves lifting the front end. There are some considerations when doing this, some are application specific, some not.
Towing:
  • when you lift the front end, then load the bed or attach a heavy trailer, the steering can be negatively affected. It may feel "floatier" in the front, and will tend to wander a bit more. This is because loading the rear end changes the attitude of the front end, and therefor changes the effective alignment.
  • Your headlights WILL not be adjusted correctly if you lift the front end. full stop. most people don't care to re-adjust their headlights, some do. Either way, your headlights will not be aimed correctly after leveling without your adjusting them.
Spacer leveling:
  • Cheap option (it's a puck that goes above the coilover in the spring perches and effectively stacks height)
  • doesn't get you more travel
  • doesn't get you "better" travel
  • looks better than stock
  • changes alignment, perhaps outside of specs

Coilover leveling:
  • More expensive option (this is installing a longer coilover in place of the stock unit, effectively increasing the height between the spring perch and the lower control arm where the coilover mounts).
  • may get you more travel, depending on product
  • may get you "better" travel, depending on the product (more control, less body roll, etc.)
  • looks better than stock
  • changes alignment, perhaps outside of specs (you can mitigate this with quality control arms that will effectively "fix" your caster issues after leveling your truck

for me? I plan on leveling the truck with valved coilovers when they're available that let me dial in the ride the way I want it. I will be adding upper control arms as well, and will retain some of the rake of the vehicle as I plan to tow with this rig and do not want a front-high tow. this means I MAY have to add a 1-inch block in the rear if I can't get valved coilovers in a low enough height.

If you want input on upper control arms, I can help with that too, but it may be another thread, and nothing is really available quite yet (no Camburg or Icon at this point for 2021 F-150's- and yes, I called Icon to confirm).

I hope this helps!

So if I get the 2 inch puck or 2 inch coilover kits this will make my truck "Level" ? I assume this will be the case since the hardware will only be installed in the front of the truck.

Does this also mean a 1.5 inch puck will reduce the rake but not eliminate it ? On the flip side if I get a 2.5 inch kit it will squat the truck unless I get a .5 inch puck for the back?

I am just trying to get an idea of what each of the sizes for the kits do.
 

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aika1

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So if I get the 2 inch puck or 2 inch coilover kits this will make my truck "Level" ? I assume this will be the case since the hardware will only be installed in the front of the truck.

Does this also mean a 1.5 inch puck will reduce the rake but not eliminate it ? On the flip side if I get a 2.5 inch kit it will squat the truck unless I get a .5 inch puck for the back?

I am just trying to get an idea of what each of the sizes for the kits do.
I simply don't know the spacing yet. There are very few suppliers of leveling kits for the 2021 F-150 at this time (lots of guys are saying that 2020 fits, and that's true and untrue at the same time). It's a waiting game for now, if you want to do it right and have options.

My advice: don't puck it.
 

150ish

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Just to add to the confusion. A leveling kit (puck) doesn't actually level the truck. It just raises the front by how ever much is stated by the manufacturer. Essentially, its just a lift that's referred to as "Level." 99% of the trucks still have rake in them after installation.
Edit: If you want to see how much lift will actually level your truck measure from hub center to the bottom of the front and rear fender wells. Subtract the difference and that's your magic number.
 

aika1

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Correct - there’s a lot of FUD being spread above (fear, uncertainty and doubt). All higher end trims on current model F-series Ford pickup trucks have self-leveling headlights. Unless you do something really extreme to take your truck WAY out of level, your headlights will always stay in line and not blind oncoming traffic. That includes aftermarket leveling kits, or squat while towing a heavy load - all will be compensated for by the leveling system.
I would argue I'm inserting facts and/or informed opinions, and not "Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt". I think your perspective is a bit skewed based on your garage consisting of a Tesla, Porsche, KingRanch F-350, and a F-150KingRanch and here's why:
The fact remains that unless you buy an F-150 that's a Lariat Chrome Package or above (502A), you don't have those fancy leveling headlights. I've been trying to track down the trim level statistics on F-150's sold, but the vast majority are XL, XLT, Lariat, so I imagine there are a lot of folks without those fancy headlights (including my own Lariat). IF you get leveling headlights, you STILL don't know if your headlights will compensate enough; it is an experiment. I hope it's simple for those folks with those trucks!
 

PungoteagueDave

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I would argue I'm inserting facts and/or informed opinions, and not "Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt". I think your perspective is a bit skewed based on your garage consisting of a Tesla, Porsche, KingRanch F-350, and a F-150KingRanch and here's why:
The fact remains that unless you buy an F-150 that's a Lariat Chrome Package or above (502A), you don't have those fancy leveling headlights. I've been trying to track down the trim level statistics on F-150's sold, but the vast majority are XL, XLT, Lariat, so I imagine there are a lot of folks without those fancy headlights (including my own Lariat). IF you get leveling headlights, you STILL don't know if your headlights will compensate enough; it is an experiment. I hope it's simple for those folks with those trucks!
Correct - I guess it depends on product mix - I also own several Ford Superduty work trucks without self-levelers on my farm - but wouldn't mess around with leveling them either. Based on the trucks I see on the road on the east coast, Ford sells a lot more LED headlight-equipped trucks these days than not. And the self-aiming range is VERY wide. (like several feet at 20' aiming distance).
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