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Ctimrun

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I don’t think You want a trickle charger for this. Even at 10 amps. You need an old school charger that doesn’t turn off, or a newer with the power supply mode.
This. Definitely want something with power supply mode. I used the 20 amp one listed at the beginning of the thread (Clore PL2320) and it worked great.
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Ford4Ever

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I had a fun afternoon today. Got my Mongoose cable, FDRS license, flash drive, and a trickle charger to knock out some updates. Started the process with the APIM update with 12.9v and after it had been running for about 20 minutes, voltage started to drop quickly (even with the charger attached to the battery). The radio eventually shut itself down to save power WHILE my laptop was downloading files. I was nervous as hell that I was going to brick the dang thing. Long story short, the radio shut down, my laptop continued to download things for about 5 more minutes then prompted that the update had failed. I closed FDRS, disconnected my cable, and turned the truck on. Everything was exactly as it was before I started the process. I let out a HUGE sigh of relief.

Fast forward to about 40 minutes later... I get a notification from the FordPass app that the 3.5.3.2 update had been successfully applied to the truck. I went out to the truck and low and behold it had updated and I was able to use CarPlay widescreen. Anyone else experience something like this? I've got a 10amp trickle charger coming tomorrow and I'm going to rescan the truck to see what it still needs. Just strange to me that after all that, the update applied.
You should turn off all non essential electronics (radio, lights, HVAC etc.) when you're running your updates.
 

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This. Definitely want something with power supply mode. I used the 20 amp one listed at the beginning of the thread (Clore PL2320) and it worked great.
I used the same for my updates. It held perfect at about 13.8 volts for my f150.
updated my neighbors explorer st while I had fdrs and the mongoose cable. His pcm had an update and while updating the voltage dropped to 12.0 instantly, Scared the crap outta me but held and didn’t go lower and completed successfully. Kept above 13.5 for the rest his explorer but something about his pcm tanked it.
 

PFXLT

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I haven't looked at this thread in a while, but figured it's worth mentioning here a recent APIM update remapped the buttons to enter the APIM and TCU diagnostics.

It's now 'power' + 'seek backwards' while audio is playing.
Never knew there was a diagnostic mode for the apim and tcu. Anything interesting or useful for the everyday joe in there?
 

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Airborne_Ape

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Never knew there was a diagnostic mode for the apim and tcu. Anything interesting or useful for the everyday joe in there?
No. It's good for troubleshooting potential faulty touchscreens, TCU or DSP issues and that's about all. In Sync 3, splash screen previews were hidden in the sub menus of the test settings but in Sync 4 that's no longer the case.
 

thegc90

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I don’t think You want a trickle charger for this. Even at 10 amps. You need an old school charger that doesn’t turn off, or a newer with the power supply mode.
I saw a video on YouTube where the guy used an 8amp and had no issues - I just got this one from Amazon this morning (the 10 amp one - a Noco Genius 10). What are the thoughts on it? Or should I just return it and buy the 20? I've had really good luck with the Noco brand in the past. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 

Ajzride

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I saw a video on YouTube where the guy used an 8amp and had no issues - I just got this one from Amazon this morning (the 10 amp one - a Noco Genius 10). What are the thoughts on it? Or should I just return it and buy the 20? I've had really good luck with the Noco brand in the past. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
If your battery is in perfect shape, you might be okay with a trickle charger, but if it's not (and your clearly isn't, don't feel bad Ford shipped a ton of trucks with bad batteries), then a trickle charger won't help, no matter how many amps. You need a charger with a power supply mode, like the one linked on the first page of this thread.
 

pavementends

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If your battery is in perfect shape, you might be okay with a trickle charger, but if it's not (and your clearly isn't, don't feel bad Ford shipped a ton of trucks with bad batteries), then a trickle charger won't help, no matter how many amps. You need a charger with a power supply mode, like the one linked on the first page of this thread.
@thegc90 The Noco Genius 10 does have a power supply mode.
 

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I personally believe there's a place for both kinds of chargers in the garage these days. Especially with these trucks.
Trickle charger deployed in a manner that is convenient to plugin. And a 20A w/power supply mode for when long accessory mode events are called for.
 

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Jesse-Infotainment

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Its safest when doing the long updates(IPMA, IPC, CMR, PSCM) to run powersupply mode. If your doing short updates that are known to take a few mins then a low amprage charger coud be ok. I prefer to play it safe but I know not everyone can affrd the charger on top of the cable on top of the FDRS.
 

thegc90

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@thegc90 The Noco Genius 10 does have a power supply mode.
Yeah that's what drew me to it. Honestly, the one at the beginning of the thread is nearly the same cost so I'm thinking about returning the Noco and buying the 20amp. I guess it's a "better safe than sorry" on this one. I'm just mainly curious if the 10amp is enough (in the power supply mode).
 

JScaro

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Not trying to be a Dick but I just don't understand why people always want to take the short cut when doing something to there 60K+ vehicle.
I do understand time is valuable but in the long run when things go wrong, what was saved or in most cases F'd up?

READ PAGE 1
Also, I would strongly suggest to follow @Bob_Mac document, outlining the latest updates and shared knowledge related to this process. You can access his guide here.


This thread is approaching 600 pages because of "I saw a video on YouTube where the guy used (Insert whatever you want here) and had no issues"

Thankfully there are MANY helpful members on here to provide support but when it's the same thing over and over again.

OK, time to take my meds, sorry for the rant. Love you guys!
 

pavementends

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Yeah that's what drew me to it. Honestly, the one at the beginning of the thread is nearly the same cost so I'm thinking about returning the Noco and buying the 20amp. I guess it's a "better safe than sorry" on this one. I'm just mainly curious if the 10amp is enough (in the power supply mode).
I don't know if I have seen a post stating whether any FDRS update has drawn more than 10 amps. 10 amps sounds like a lot of current for a module to pull, but, honestly, I don't know if 10 amps is enough or if the battery will gradually be depleted below a safe SOC/voltage...
 

thegc90

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Not trying to be a Dick but I just don't understand why people always want to take the short cut when doing something to there 60K+ vehicle.
I do understand time is valuable but in the long run when things go wrong, what was saved or in most cases F'd up?

READ PAGE 1
Also, I would strongly suggest to follow @Bob_Mac document, outlining the latest updates and shared knowledge related to this process. You can access his guide here.


This thread is approaching 600 pages because of "I saw a video on YouTube where the guy used (Insert whatever you want here) and had no issues"

Thankfully there are MANY helpful members on here to provide support but when it's the same thing over and over again.

OK, time to take my meds, sorry for the rant. Love you guys!
No offense taken! We're all here to provide assistant and input. I'm going to send the 10amp back and grab the 20amp mentioned at the beginning of the thread. After yesterdays near heart attack, I'm just wanting to make sure bases are covered and that I get everyone's thoughts. I do appreciate everyone's input!
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