Do's and Don'ts of breaking in a new truck

[Rgwinn]

Lots of good advice. I have been switching between modes, Sport, Eco, and Tow/Haul to get some variation on rpms and shift points.

I always wonder what the other 90% of the population does that isn’t getting their information from online forums.

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[boo radley]

Lots of good advice. I have been switching between modes, Sport, Eco, and Tow/Haul to get some variation on rpms and shift points.

I always wonder what the other 90% of the population does that isn’t getting their information from online forums.

Salespeople at dealerships claim that you dont be concerned about breaking the engine in. Drive the new truck as you normally would from mile # 1. Just watch the brakes and youll be good.

What happens if they are wrong and the motor uses oil and does not get the best mpg? Selective amnesia? Put it all in writing and I will gladly take your advice.

 

[flatag]

The science? Old wives tails? Because the salesman said? My buddies best friend knows a guy that has a mechanic?

Best bet is to follow the manufacturer guidelines and never listen to advice from anyone trying to sell you something.

 

[boo radley]

The science? Old wives tails? Because the salesman said? My buddies best friend knows a guy that has a mechanic?

Best bet is to follow the manufacturer guidelines and never listen to advice from anyone trying to sell you something.

Or, listen to people who fix these things for a living and people who have been around the block or two.

An engine builder in Canada had an old farmer bring a tractor in for an engine rebuild. When the guy tore the engine down, it was clean as whistle and really did not need rebuilding, but the Farmer wanted it done anyway. So, he asked the the farmer what kind of engine oil he uses. Lucas he replied.

 

[flatag]

Ford recommended oil is a synthetic blend. That’s what I’ll be using.

 

[sbi]

I used "cruise" to vary speed all the way home because it was much easier to adjust speed via the set button in lieu of the gas pedal. Not to set on 1 speed.

By changing the oil at 1000, Im certain there is 100% synthetic oil in the engine and its the brand that I use. The brand of oil which will be in the engine for its life while I own it. I also want to remove the metal particles that are in the oil.

OK, that's how I use cruise as well, I basically dirve with my fingers when driving long distance on highways, that's fine.
I just don't understand the science behind the other suggestions including the "change oil after 1000 miles", even if it's a synthetic one. I (at least want to) believe that if this was necessary, or in any way extend the life of the engine, Ford would recommend - or even highly recommend - to change the oil after the first 1000 miles.
Because technically, you can use the logic of fresh oil and basically change the oil every 3000 miles as long as you own the truck, like we used to do in the good ole' days.

 

[sbi]

Ford recommended oil is a synthetic blend. That’s what I’ll be using.

We are not debating which oil to be used. Clearly the one that the manufacturer recommends. The "science" question was about all the 'advices' that people here give "do this and do that, don't do this and don't do that, change the oil after 1000 miles, don't use cruise control, etc" (during first X number of miles) even though the manufacturer says absolutely nothing about it.

 

[boo radley]

OK, that's how I use cruise as well, I basically dirve with my fingers when driving long distance on highways, that's fine.
I just don't understand the science behind the other suggestions including the "change oil after 1000 miles", even if it's a synthetic one. I (at least want to) believe that if this was necessary, or in any way extend the life of the engine, Ford would recommend - or even highly recommend - to change the oil after the first 1000 miles.
Because technically, you can use the logic of fresh oil and basically change the oil every 3000 miles as long as you own the truck, like we used to do in the good ole' days.

I just explained in infinite detail why I change at 1000.

1. To remove the fine metal particles that are in the oil from the new rings wearing in. The rings are designed to form to the cylinder walls.

2. So I am positive that 100% synthetic oil is in the engine, I dont care what Ford says is in there with all the sloppy mistake's that have gone on with the 2021. Faulty windshield sealant, rust all over the underside rear axle and shocks, battery issues. These people are not infallible. Google how many class action lawsuits by F150 customers against FMC. Ford is issuing recalls constantly because of mistakes.

3. I change oil again @ 4000 to catch any remaining metal after the first change. That is why I am installing a magnetic oil pan plug this time to see just to see how much metal particles are there. I drive the engine harder after 1000 and at top speeds for extended periods. 80 - 90 whatever it takes.

4. Thereafter changes are at every 9000. Mobil 1 states higher intervals, but 9000 is good enough for me. Clean oil is inexpensive and so important for the oil pump, crank bearings, timing chain or belts in the 2021 engine.

An oil changes is about $60 doing it myself. 3 per year is $200 annually and is peanuts to maintain a $55,000 truck.

 

[Pedaldude]

One of the reasons for recommendation of changing oil at 1k miles was because of the greater tolerances in older engines in addition to engines being shipped from the factory with a different grade of oil specifically for breaking in the engine. Not to mention less effective oil filtration. Some older cars didn't have oil filters at all and also had poured in place lower end bearings that was a maintenance item that a gas station could perform!

Fuel injection and better oil quality and additives changed the oil change intervals as well and even in the F150 2021 manual, it mentions way in the back that if you are in a country where you can't get the recommended oil to ignore the oil change life % and to go ahead and change the oil every 3,000 miles. There are also instructions regarding towing, taxi and fleet use that the smart oil life monitor doesn't take into account.

With all the talk about changing oil early, I am surprised that there's no mention of the differential gear oil. The differential has no filter, only a magnet and one of the requirements from most gear shops that change diff. ratios is usually to change out the lube after 500 miles.

Another thing that people need to be aware of is time. Even in the manual, it says that you should change your oil after a year, regardless of mileage. So on new trucks, especially these days, the oil change could be much sooner than expected for those who are going off the oil minder.

Has anyone that has changed their oil already sent it out for analysis?

 

[UNIKRN150]

One of the reasons for recommendation of changing oil at 1k miles was because of the greater tolerances in older engines in addition to engines being shipped from the factory with a different grade of oil specifically for breaking in the engine. Not to mention less effective oil filtration. Some older cars didn't have oil filters at all and also had poured in place lower end bearings that was a maintenance item that a gas station could perform!

Fuel injection and better oil quality and additives changed the oil change intervals as well and even in the F150 2021 manual, it mentions way in the back that if you are in a country where you can't get the recommended oil to ignore the oil change life % and to go ahead and change the oil every 3,000 miles. There are also instructions regarding towing, taxi and fleet use that the smart oil life monitor doesn't take into account.

With all the talk about changing oil early, I am surprised that there's no mention of the differential gear oil. The differential has no filter, only a magnet and one of the requirements from most gear shops that change diff. ratios is usually to change out the lube after 500 miles.

Another thing that people need to be aware of is time. Even in the manual, it says that you should change your oil after a year, regardless of mileage. So on new trucks, especially these days, the oil change could be much sooner than expected for those who are going off the oil minder.

Has anyone that has changed their oil already sent it out for analysis?

Damn, I never thought about that but you're absolutely right. Metal to metal parts are breaking down to get broken in and not just the engine.
Transfer case too.

 

[Infotroll]

Boo Radley & Pedaldude both have valid point . Changing oil sooner is not a bad thing. Here is some anecdotal stories that are worth whatever you think of them. Pro off road racing for some time so changed oil diff oil often anytime the rear came in contact with water. The tow vehicle diff was changed 2 -3 time a year. Transmission every 10k coolant every 15k. air filter as need . That was F 350 at the time 7.3 got 400k out of before it was sold . Take into consideration what Pedaldude said tolerances and oil not being that good. It worked in that case my partner took the opposite approach after 40k he stopped changing oil and just added it as needed and changed the filter every so often. He got over 600k out of it before he traded it in. That was 20 years ago lets move onto a new engine taken care of by a professional mechanic and checked every single day. A helicopter no oil change just add it as necessary . You also let the engine cool down so the oil does not cook and when the temp goes down it gets shut down. Its your truck does as you wish . No such thing as lifetime oil lifetime fluid plugs etc etc . Change sooner than later and put a good magnet on the pan and diff

 

[Predator]

Take it easy on the throttle for as long as you can I lasted to about 400 km

 

[fmdog44]

Never have I heard of a major engine failure due to breaking it in wrong. Sensible driving will do the trick at 75 or 20mph.

 

[KartRacer25]

FYI 2 people have reported overfill of 5.0 on first oil change. Gen 14 is 7.75 not 8.85 quarts and different viscosity.

 

[sbi]

Here's my two bits: According to the new 2021 Manual (Page 430 for break in):

This is what the current manual says:

Seems pretty normal and reasonable to me.

According to these guys, the new 5.0 has upgraded rings & oil pump.

I DO plan to use the trick they show in this video to disable cylinder deactivation during the break in period.

It doesn't seem to me that deactivating cylinders would be a good thing for an engine that's still being broken in.

So you're buying an expensive vehicle from a mega, veteran manufacturer that you basically don't trust...

Cruise control is because it doesn't change load on the engine. You want to vary the load frequently for the first thousand miles so that the piston rings seat and wear in properly. I'm sure there are other items that can be negatively affected when sitting at one RPM/load as well.

Of course it does, unless you drive through a deserted highway for 300 miles. In most highways there is always traffic, slower drivers, trucks, etc, which you need to slow down for and then re-accelerate to your crusing speed.

The science? Old wives tails? Because the salesman said? My buddies best friend knows a guy that has a mechanic?

Best bet is to follow the manufacturer guidelines and never listen to advice from anyone trying to sell you something.

Agree 100%. It's amazing how people buy these trucks and don't trust the manufacturer. I drove off dealers' lots with several new vehicles in my life time. Granted - theye were not trucks, mostly Honda's and one Hyundai. Never ever did it occur to me to develope any kind of "special break-in theory" other than be gentle on the brakes for the first 200-250 miles (which I still do anyways every time I replace my pads and rotors). Just use common sense, don't tow a heavy trailer off the dealer's lot, don't drag race your new vehicle....drive normally like a reasonable human being and your engine will be just fine.

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