Determining Payload Capacity for PowerBoost or EcoBoost with Towing

[stlsailor]

I'm confused. And from seeing other threads it's clear I'm not the only one. I want to order an F-150 XLT. Trailer weight is 7300 lbs so with the right equipment I'm within specs (though there seems to be some confusion as to what that right equipment is. At least Trailer Tow package I think; probably Max Tow.) But I'm more concerned about payload. The tongue weight of the trailer is 900 lbs. That's a big hit to payload capacity to start with, and and then I also need to know what the option weights are and subtract them to see what payload capacity is left. I'd planned on a PB but think I may need an EB due to payload capacity.

I tried to build an XLT on the build site so I could get a list of options but it would only let me build an XL for some reason. And I still need to fine a site with the weight of the options that are not standard on the model. And ideas of a site that would do either?

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[Hawkeye]

Keep in mind that the higher trims that add heavier options all eat into the baseline payload.

My XL/STX CCLB (sticker below) has 1990lbs of payload. I do have the Trailer Tow package which you will need as a minimum. Without it you are actually limited (on tow guide) to 7,000lbs towing. Obviously the Heavy Duty Payload Package gets you the most payload (500-750 or so lbs. more depending on trim/engine etc.). Getting a Max Tow/HDPP with 3.5 Eco will allow for the highest tow capability (13k+ lbs.)

I would review this link https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/payload-s.3491/ for additional information.

 

[stlsailor]

Keep in mind that the higher trims that add heavier options all eat into the baseline payload.

My XL/STX CCLB (sticker below) has 1990lbs of payload. I do have the Trailer Tow package which you will need as a minimum. Without it you are actually limited (on tow guide) to 7,000lbs towing. Obviously the Heavy Duty Payload Package gets you the most payload (500-750 or so lbs. more depending on trim/engine etc.). Getting a Max Tow/HDPP with 3.5 Eco will allow for the highest tow capability (13k+ lbs.)

I would review this link https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/payload-s.3491/ for additional information.

Thanks.. I'll check out the link. And I'll look at the sticker you provided. It could prove very helpful.

 

[stlsailor]

The thread referenced and one other thread I re-read pretty much repeated what I've known. That is, that each truck has its own unique payload ratings. And that is the problem. I need to know pretty close to what the final payload rating will be as I have it spec'd out to be sure I'll have no tow capacity problems.

How to do that? If I can (a) get a list of all the options over and above what is on the base XLT (which is what I'm looking for) and (b) find the weight of each option, I can subtract that from the payload capacity in the Ford charts and that should get me close.

Thus I still am facing two problems.

1. First, the Build and Price site doesn't seem to let me start with or add an XLT trim level, which is what I want. I need that as step 1 to be sure I have the options listed.
2. Second, I need the weight of each option.

Does anyone know where to find these, or know of a different way of estimating? Before I order a truck, I need to know it will let me tow what I need.

 

[stlsailor]

The CAT Scale weight was around 7300 with propane tanks full, water tanks empty, and things in the trailer that we permanently keep there which is how we always travel. The tongue scale measured 900. I haven't weighed the WDH but I was figuring it at about 100#. We typically don't carry anything in it other than things that stay there all the time. We don't have much leeway in how we load the trailer as the heaviest are the things that are carried in the under trailer storage compartment, which is, unfortunately right at the front where it adds to tongue weight, I'm sure. Of course the propane tanks and battery are there as well. One thing we could do, I suppose, is to put the suitcases, clothes and food in the trailer towards the center or rear which should reduce payload. We don't take a lot--a cooler is the heaviest thing. No kayaks, dogs, etc. I've thought of getting an Anderson hitch to save some weight. But maybe the combination of moving items from the vehicle to the trailer along with a lighter WDH would make a noticeable difference. Perhaps also double checking that the WDH that the dealer installed is not improperly set to put undue tongue weight on the vehicle. It doesn't appear to be, but double-checking wouldn't hurt. And it's typically just my wife and I traveling. That's the tow situation.

The idea of visiting the dealer and checking similarly equipped vehicles is a good idea with one fatal drawback -- there's nothing close to what we're after on the lots. I've visited a local dealer and searched the internet for those in the vicinity. Lacking that option, and reading posts from people whose trucks came in far below the payload capacity they expected has made me a bit leery. But i do believe you are right, that it would be impossible to not be near or slightly over payload.

I've been looking at the PowerBoost but that gives a lesser payload because you can't get the HDPP on it for reasons I can't fathom. An EcoBoost would give more payload. A V-8 even more if I recall. Those are scenarios, though not what I'm looking at. But again, if I don't have a ballpark idea where an individual truck equipped as I want is going to come in, I don't know which if any of the three scenarios would work.

 

[BLoflin]

Besides all the right things you are already looking into, there may be some other "tricks", if you are that close. Things like finding where each of your RV tanks are located (versus trailer axle). If the fresh water is in front of the axle but the gray and/or black are behind. On a long high-speed tow (as long as you don't violate RV GVWR or Truck GCWR and you keep minimum of 9.9% (smile) tow weight), you can leave Fresh Water tank empty (fill right before getting to destination) and also fill (with just fresh water) your gray and/or black if they are behind the trailer axle.

Also, a pain, but if you can securely tie down your full propane tanks at the rear of the RV, move them for the tow.

Finally, if you have a battery bank (2 or more batteries), switching from AGM/Lead Acid to Lithium will cut your battery bank weight in half or more (but very expensive solution). Also Lithium batteries can be mounted anywhere (including inside your trailer) as they don't outgas or leak. So if you can move the batteries back from sitting right on the tongue outside RV to somewhere (under couch or bed in front of RV) closer to the trailer axles you will be lessening the tongue weight.

 

[stlsailor]

...finding where each of your RV tanks are located (versus trailer axle). If the fresh water is in front of the axle but the gray and/or black are behind. On a long high-speed tow (as long as you don't violate RV GVWR or Truck GCWR and you keep minimum of 9.9% (smile) tow weight), you can leave Fresh Water tank empty (fill right before getting to destination) and also fill (with just fresh water) your gray and/or black if they are behind the trailer axle.

Thanks for taking the time to make suggestions. Yes, the fresh water tank is in front of the axle. That's why I always travel with it empty. Though one reason for considering the powerboost is the converter to make boondocking easier which may affect that. I hadn't though of filling the black and gray tanks.

Also, a pain, but if you can securely tie down your full propane tanks at the rear of the RV, move them for the tow.

Finally, if you have a battery bank (2 or more batteries), switching from AGM/Lead Acid to Lithium will cut your battery bank weight in half or more (but very expensive solution). Also Lithium batteries can be mounted anywhere (including inside your trailer) as they don't outgas or leak. So if you can move the batteries back from sitting right on the tongue outside RV to somewhere (under couch or bed in front of RV) closer to the trailer axles you will be lessening the tongue weight.

The propane tank idea would help. But no place to tie them securely. And, as you said, it does sound like a pain. So far as batteries I only have a single battery. I have considered a battery bank, though, and if I do in the future, your suggestion sounds right on.

My concern is that in the end all the things I mentioned and you mentioned sound for nought if I can't get a good idea before I order the truck what the payload rating is so I know if these things put me in the ballpark or not. Am I missing something?

 

[DANNER]

So what is the actually the difference (physically) between a F150 with a
3.5L EcoBoost V6 with the Heavy-Duty Payload Package and one without? Is the Heavy-Duty Payload Package something Ford could possibly offer on 2022 F150s with a PowerBoost Engine?

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