Can my F150 Handle Towing This Travel Trailer?

[Aron]

Several generations ago, the only difference for the tow rating difference between the single rear tire (non-dually) F250 & the F350, was just the ply rating on the factory installed tires. That was it. When Ford added higher ply tires to the F250, Ford slapped an F350 emblem on it and the rating increased.

The reason that yellow sticker lists the stock tires and at what PSI is because those crap stock tires are the limiting factor as they were chosen for economy and a soft ride.

So, the question is, what is the load rating or limitations now that my truck is running a proper LT tire? Is it the brakes, the rear springs, the cooling capacity of the transmission, the rear diff, the hubs, the Al wheels themselves?

Something doesn't add up here for me...

There's more to it than just tires, though I agree that swapping out the tires for LT tires will help with towing, everything else being equal.

The payload rating is the GVWR minus the weight of the truck, so a heavier truck will have less payload, even if that heavier weight won't affect towing much at all (such as a moonroof). I don't know how the Ford engineers precisely calculate the GVWR, but it's some combination of suspension, frame, axles, brakes, cooling capacity, and probably some other things that I'm not thinking about at the moment. You may be able to upgrade some of these items (suspension, brakes, transmission cooler), but others (frame) likely aren't feasible.

The GVWR is rated to meet certain testing standards (e.g., the total combined weight of the truck and trailer must stop completely from a certain speed in a certain distance); it doesn't necesarily mean that your truck will break if you exceed any given rating (though it also might, depending upon conditions).

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[Northguy]

Wow is this post timely.

I have a rather heavy Limited F150. It did come from the factory with a hitch, although I don't know if it's adequate for my purposes. The sticker is below.

I've added 300# of modifications (LT Tires, camper, leveling kit, intercooler, skid plate, etc.)

The RV (Dweller 15) I'm looking at has the following specs:

- 20' overall length
- Dry Weight 5,070
- GVWR 6,405
- Ball Weigt 500#s
- This trailer holds 31g 'city water'

I've been told by someone that has owned this trailer that it's heavy in the rear and that steps need to be taken to prevent it from porpusing while towing.

Although I'm only 183#s and my wife and daughter are petite (combined 405#s). However, there are bikes, clothes and food to consider. Call it an additional 200#s

So 1363#s - 'any cargo' () so 905#s = 458#s.

If 458#s is my maximum amount can that all be placed on the ball since the listed ball weight of the trailer is 500#s, does that mean that I just can't haul a trailer this large?

Frankly, that seems absurd if such a truck can't tow a 20' RV trailer and it sounds much too conservative to me.

Which components are realistically the limitation, as I suspect it's the stock tires more than anything.

Please share any info on this topic that you can and thank you.

The issue or depending on your point of view, the advantage of the 1363 lb payload is the options that come on a limited version of f150. Every option reduces your payload. A stock XLT is going to have around 1950 lb payload. Very rough way to look at is that for every 100lbs of extra payload your truck has, you have add 1000lbs of wt to the trailer you want to purchase. My XLT at 1850lb payload allows me to pull 4000lbs more travel trailer (or combination of trailer and cargo) than your 1363lbs. The issue for me is that you have a much sweeter ride than me for the majority of time (ie not towing).

Unfortunately the truck (and trailer) salesmen don't tell you the towing impact of added truck options but rather incorrectly tout the 14000lbs towing (pulling) capacity of the truck.

 

[Suns_PSD]

If my truck is rated for 14,000# total weight, I'm 100% comfortable with that truck/ trailer/ payload as long as it's < 14K#s on my current LT tires.

I'm still trying to figure this out for my '21, but for a '24 F150 with my powertrain is rated for > 17K #s.

Going to be honest here, I think that everyone using that sticker as the holy grail are missing the forest for the trees not realizing that it only applies with stock tires.

To top it off it makes an assumption that you have all of that capacity at the hitch, when in reality every tire has a max capacity and I'm certain that all of it isn't available just on the rear tires. So using that metric it would be even less people are calculating around here.

 

[Aron]

If my truck is rated for 14,000# total weight, I'm 100% comfortable with that truck/ trailer/ payload as long as it's < 14K#s on my current LT tires.

I'm still trying to figure this out for my '21, but for a '24 F150 with my powertrain is rated for > 17K #s.

Going to be honest here, I think that everyone using that sticker as the holy grail are missing the forest for the trees not realizing that it only applies with stock tires.

To top it off it makes an assumption that you have all of that capacity at the hitch, when in reality every tire has a max capacity and I'm certain that all of it isn't available just on the rear tires. So using that metric it would be even less people are calculating around here.

For what it's worth, Ford only tells you what the maximums you could possibly tow, not necessarily how those maximum trailers are used. You could tow up to 14k (combined) of this type of trailer and not impact your payload much at all:

In that scenario, you're going to be limited by the engine power, transmission, and brakes of your truck.

An RV trailer is a whole different beast, because you're balancing a multi-ton box on a pivot point, where a big portion of that weight must be carried by the truck's payload.

The yellow sticker does display payload rating and tire ratings for the stock tires, but those two pieces of information are independent. You could change the tires and the tire portion of that yellow sticker would be meaningless; the payload number wouldn't change at all. (Well, technically, it would change slightly by the difference in weight of the new tires compared with the old tires.)

The payload rating is the GVWR (set by Ford at the factory, which is one of a few standard numbers for all F150s, depending upon their design at manufacture) minus the weight of the vehicle. Strength of your tires is not really relevant, since the GVWR is likely calculated based upon a number of inputs (frame stiffness, brake stopping power, engine cooling for a certain load, etc).

Adding stronger tires might improve the overall towing experience despite the likely hit to the payload for doing so. However, just adding new tires doesn't completely negate the payload issue.

 

[cheesedogf150]

Can and should are different. This is the tail wagging the dog.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Those stock Hankooks are weight rated at 2400#s, but that's at 51 psi. At the recommended 35 psi, they are rated for less but I can't locate a chart. I'll guess the new weight rating is 1850#s at 35 psi based on my trucking experience

What does a Limited 4x4 weigh anyways, 5700#s? Now it turns out reading through the Towing specifications that the specifications include two 150# passengers (it says properly equipped and with a 150# driver & passenger in the notes). Bet it includes fuel as well.

1850# * 4 tires = 7400#s - 6000#s truck and passengers leaves 1400#s for payload. Suspiciously close to my actual payload rating on my sticker.

I'm not disagreeing at all that an RV needs to have 10-15% of the trailer weight on the ball, I'm just disagreeing with the notion that the limit is so low permanently, once you consider a tire swap.

The sheer GCWR of >17K lets you know that Ford has confidence in the brakes, cooling package, etc.

 

[780]

I have the 23BHHL Heritage Glenn camper https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/heritage-glen-travel-trailers/23BHHL/8405 , about 2,000lbs less GVWR than yours and it is about all I would want to tow with an F150. For me the tires were the greatest impact in improving the towing 'feel' of my truck.

Our trailer is about the same. 6,134 dry, 728 hitch weight (probably dry) and 30' long hitch to bumper. (NortherN Spirit 2758RB)

Towing with a 157" Max Tow with load range E tires.

Same as you, I would not go bigger. I have a 1,777lb payload and I'm right there.

Trailer honestly tows quite well but... would a HD truck do better? Absolutely.

 

[maxis1230]

My trailer is 31 ft long. I have no issues with sway or anything, even large trucks passing. I do have a WDH with sway control built in etc.

I wouldn't go any longer than that though with the short bed. Personal preference I guess.

Can you post the specs of your truck & trailer for comparison? I've heard other people say this and would love to know what your weights are.

 

[Suns_PSD]

My particular truck has a max GCWR or 18,400#s. Max trailer weight of 12,400#s.

Some other significant limitations however:

1) the OEM tires are weight limited. That however has been corrected on my truck.
2) the OEM hitch appears to have a max tow rating of 6K#s.

Sounds like anything over 5K#s I'd probably need a WDH installed just to be totally safe.

 

[Chris GTO TT]

Changing the tires does NOT change your payload capacity. The stock tires can carry significantly more than the GVWR of any 14th gen F150, even after you account for the de-rating requirement when putting a P-Series tire on a pickup truck.

 

[JExpedition07]

Not a huge margin of safety there, I’d pass on that myself. Could it be done, probably. The thing i always remind people is the limited braking and handling of any half ton platform. The heavier trailers really start to effect performance.

 

[Tony 70]

We purchased a 30ft. Travel trailer, dry weight 6450.
RV dealers will tell you no problem to tow with a 1/2 ton.
Once you add propane, batteries and other accessories.
Your trailer weight will increase.
You're probably in a 3/4 ton due to trailer sway.
I towed a 30ft with 1/2 ton.
As one member said,
White knuckle could be dangerous

 

[Davexxxx]

For some actual new, empty and loaded weights and performance summary, see this and the post inside.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/2nd-trip-to-the-scales.24733/

 

[Chris GTO TT]

Those stock Hankooks are weight rated at 2400#s, but that's at 51 psi. At the recommended 35 psi, they are rated for less but I can't locate a chart. I'll guess the new weight rating is 1850#s at 35 psi based on my trucking experience

You can't locate a chart because for SL (standard load) P-Series tires they all carry their rated weight at 35psi.
https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-is-maximum-load-for-a-tire

You can put more pressure into the tire to improve stability when towing but it doesn't change the load carrying capacity of the tire like it would on a LT tire.

 

[780]

We purchased a 30ft. Travel trailer, dry weight 6450.
RV dealers will tell you no problem to tow with a 1/2 ton.
Once you add propane, batteries and other accessories.
Your trailer weight will increase.
You're probably in a 3/4 ton due to trailer sway.
I towed a 30ft with 1/2 ton.
As one member said,
White knuckle could be dangerous

That sounds about like what I'm towing. 30 foot from hitch to bumper. 27' box.
Sway or braking hasn't been an issue. I'm getting close to payload capacity though.

3/4 ton would be better for this reason as well.
But, overkill for the 95% of the time the truck is just used by me to commute to work.

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