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Break-in Procedure for New 3.0L PS?

motivology

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As you may have seen, I recently picked up a 2021 Ford F150 Platinum 3.0L PS. It literally as 60 miles on the clock right now so it's a brand new truck.

This is my first time owning one that is brand new... what is the proper break-in procedure for 3.0L PS engines?

I was reading up a little bit from this thread (Do's & Don'ts of Breaking In a New Truck), but those are mostly for gassers. Wasn't sure if it applies the same for diesels?

Any help is appreciated it. Thanks!

Ford F-150 Break-in Procedure for New 3.0L PS? IMG_2999
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tony72cutlass's'

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Regardless of the motor, I would take it easy for the first grand, change the oil then give ‘er hell

just don’t baby it, drive ‘normal’ but don’t put your foot to the ground or tow heavy loads
 

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The general consensus for most autoblogs is no using cruise control as you want to vary rpm and load. Taking it “easy” means not going into high load or high boost situations, basically light throttle initially into medium throttle after a few hundred miles. Stop and go traffic or stop and go service roads are recommended over pure highway (varying rpm and load situations). Then after 500-1000 miles can either change oil and give ‘ER the beans, or just grip and rip with mixing in wide open throttle application (after proper engine and transmission operating temperatures are achieved). Most blogs also recommend accelerating in a taller gear then allowing for engine braking to decelerate. Rinsing and repeating with medium throttle, typically completed after a few hundred miles and on the highway so you can use more of the rev range. Most high performance engines limit boost or rpm for the first 500 miles of the engines life then allow for full power shortly after.
 

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Regardless of the motor, I would take it easy for the first grand, change the oil then give ‘er hell

just don’t baby it, drive ‘normal’ but don’t put your foot to the ground or tow heavy loads
I also just purchased a new truck (300 miles on it so far), and "change the oil at 1000 miles" was my instinct as well. However, I've been reading through the owner's manual, and I didn't see a mention of changing oil until 10k miles (or until your dashboard tracker indicates it), under "scheduled maintenance", assuming normal usage. Is a separate "break-in" process listed somewhere else? That on-line manual is really tough to read, so I may have missed it.
 
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tony72cutlass's'

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I also just purchased a new truck (300 miles on it so far), and "change the oil at 1000 miles" was my instinct as well. However, I've been reading through the owner's manual, and I didn't see a mention of changing oil until 10k miles (or until your dashboard tracker indicates it), under "scheduled maintenance", assuming normal usage. Is a separate "break-in" process listed somewhere else? That on-line manual is really tough to read, so I may have missed it.
It’s by no means a requirement but a lot of people swear by it getting out all the initial break in metal particles.

Im pretty sure the only thing the manual says is to take it easy the first thousand (no aggressive acceleration, towing, etc)
 

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Diesels are different that gasoline engines, and different diesels are different from each other.

Things I know from experience (2009 VW 2.0 TDI and 2007 Jeep WK 3.0 CRD):
It can take 10K miles to really beak in a diesel. They're tight - made for high compression.
Change the oil @ half normal interval for the first 2 changes. So 5K, 5K, then 10K.
Do Not Use 100% Biodiesel before 10K miles (in fact, don't do it at all). IIRC Ford says 20% bio is Ok, but I say only after 10K miles.
Yes, avoid cruise control - vary your RPM's as much as you can. Take it up to 3KRPM, ease down to 2K, bring it up to 4K, down again. When you get to about 2.5K or 3K miles, Hammer That Turbo (but not for an extended period of time). Find a good hill to climb.
When you get to your destination, let the truck idle for at least one full minute before shutting if off. You don't want your turbo to be hot when the engine shuts down.
 

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I just drive mine like I stole it all the time. I am on the second little Powerstroke truck and only drove them somewhat gentle for the first 500 miles or so and then it was off to the stop light drag races.
 
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Thank you all for chiming in on this matter.

Sounds like I will drive normally for the first 1000 miles, and changing up/varying the RPM's on the highway. I am not opposed to the idea of getting the oil changed at the 1000 mark. Then 5,000 mark, then every 5K after that.

@Tosh Can you clarify on what you mean by biodiesel? I wonder if that is a East coast thing as we only have Diesel #2 here in AZ.

Also - thank you for the tips. Good point about letting it cool down for a minute before shutting off.

I am looking forward to driving this truck next week. Had a little title issue but should be cleared up soon.

-DK
 

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Thank you all for chiming in on this matter.

Sounds like I will drive normally for the first 1000 miles, and changing up/varying the RPM's on the highway. I am not opposed to the idea of getting the oil changed at the 1000 mark. Then 5,000 mark, then every 5K after that.

@Tosh Can you clarify on what you mean by biodiesel? I wonder if that is a East coast thing as we only have Diesel #2 here in AZ.

Also - thank you for the tips. Good point about letting it cool down for a minute before shutting off.

I am looking forward to driving this truck next week. Had a little title issue but should be cleared up soon.

-DK
BioDiesel is diesel fuel derived from vegetable sources, such as soybean oil. In many markets you can get a blend of petroleum-based diesel mixed with biodiesel. Here in Oregon that typically is 80%/20%, so it's referred to as B-20. In other markets they sell B-5 (example Texas) and the pump has a little label on it telling you it's 5%. biodiesel.

With both of my previous diesels, which were early common-rail designs, running 100% BioDiesel could damage the fuel pump and or fuel injectors. I'm certain there is information in the Ford manual that tells you if B-20 is OK or not (I suspect it is), but my point is that you don't want to run anything more than B5 during your break-in period.

My opinion, based on my own experience.

I'll add that my Jeep WK, with a Mercedes-Benz V6 3.0 turbodiesel, runs GREAT on B20. It now has 111,000 miles on it.
 
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motivology

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BioDiesel is diesel fuel derived from vegetable sources, such as soybean oil. In many markets you can get a blend of petroleum-based diesel mixed with biodiesel. Here in Oregon that typically is 80%/20%, so it's referred to as B-20. In other markets they sell B-5 (example Texas) and the pump has a little label on it telling you it's 5%. biodiesel.

With both of my previous diesels, which were early common-rail designs, running 100% BioDiesel could damage the fuel pump and or fuel injectors. I'm certain there is information in the Ford manual that tells you if B-20 is OK or not (I suspect it is), but my point is that you don't want to run anything more than B5 during your break-in period.

My opinion, based on my own experience.

I'll add that my Jeep WK, with a Mercedes-Benz V6 3.0 turbodiesel, runs GREAT on B20. It now has 111,000 miles on it.
That is fascinating. To my knowledge (I've owned diesels for a while), we only have diesel #2 here in AZ. Have never seen a biodiesel at any gas station.

Is BioDiesel supposed to help make the engine run smoother, or emit better/less harmful, or just a cheaper option?

-DK
 

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The blending of bio fuel with petro fuel is supposed to offset our fossil fuel dependency. Just like adding ethanol to gasoline, there are issues (don't need to go down that path right now).

I find that my diesel engine runs smoother and quieter with B20 than B5. I pay about $5/gallon for B5, vs. $4/gal for B20. I don't use B20 in the winter (it tends to gel at low temps).
 

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Just like adding ethanol to gasoline, there are issues (don't need to go down that path right now).
What's funny is that the entire process of adding ethanol to gasoline increases its CO2 output by 25%.

Just as EVs take 50-60k miles to hit their 'break even' point for CO2 emissions due to what goes into making them and their fuel source. I have an EV and if I'm not playing around recharging it with the powerboost, it's coal fed the rest of the time.
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