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Best place to pick up switched +12V for Dash accessories?

Severdog

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Is there a simple tap point in the dash to pick up switched 12V to run a couple of accessories that I plan to mount on the dash?

I don't know the current draw of these items at this time, although probably not significant (couple of androids and a gopro).

If necessary I can pull in a "beefier" supply line and use the switched point to drive a relay...but curious if anyone has already selected a good power tap on a 22.

thanks
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I used the passenger foot well fuse panel to pull power for my front and rear dash cams. I used fuse taps to make it pretty easy to get power. If I remember correctly I used Fuse #2 for my constant 12v and fuse #4 for the switched ACC power. And there is a nice ground right next to the panel.
 

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I used the passenger foot well fuse panel to pull power for my front and rear dash cams. I used fuse taps to make it pretty easy to get power. If I remember correctly I used Fuse #2 for my constant 12v and fuse #4 for the switched ACC power. And there is a nice ground right next to the panel.
I believe its the opposite. The switched is #2 "Delayed accessory fuse"....which turns off when the car is off AND the door is opened. #4 is an unused Fuse...aka Constant.
 

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I believe its the opposite. The switched is #2 "Delayed accessory fuse"....which turns off when the car is off AND the door is opened. #4 is an unused Fuse...aka Constant.
Hi Adam,

Thanks for the clarification, I couldn't remember off the top of my head before. Here is the sheet I made while I was figuring out what fuse locations to use.

Ford F-150 Best place to pick up switched +12V for Dash accessories? Capturea.JPG
 

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Hi Adam,

Thanks for the clarification, I couldn't remember off the top of my head before. Here is the sheet I made while I was figuring out what fuse locations to use.

Capturea.JPG
When you say “Hot in Start and Run” that is key in ignition? Switched accessory without the delay like #2?
 

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AAWhyte

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When you say “Hot in Start and Run” that is key in ignition? Switched accessory without the delay like #2?
Hi Adam,

I believe so, but the delay is minimal and the dash cams work just fine with the short delay that is "built in" to fuse #2.
 

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I used the passenger foot well fuse panel to pull power for my front and rear dash cams. I used fuse taps to make it pretty easy to get power. If I remember correctly I used Fuse #2 for my constant 12v and fuse #4 for the switched ACC power. And there is a nice ground right next to the panel.
What fuses did you use for your fuse taps? and did you wire up usb ports for the cameras or was it direct wire?
 

AAWhyte

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What fuses did you use for your fuse taps? and did you wire up usb ports for the cameras or was it direct wire?
Scroll up a little it is highlighted in Green on the chart above. Fuse 2 and 4. I used the plugs/power cable that cam with my cameras
 

95tequesta

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Scroll up a little it is highlighted in Green on the chart above. Fuse 2 and 4. I used the plugs/power cable that cam with my cameras
That's not what I'm asking. With the fuse tap that I was thinking of
Ford F-150 Best place to pick up switched +12V for Dash accessories? 1673472040911
, there is a place for 2 fuses on each tap. One would put the original fuse in the position closest to the prongs of the tap and the other fuse for the accessory, What did you use for the accessory?

Or did you just use this?
Ford F-150 Best place to pick up switched +12V for Dash accessories? 1673471957055
 

AAWhyte

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That's not what I'm asking. With the fuse tap that I was thinking of
1673472040911.png
, there is a place for 2 fuses on each tap. One would put the original fuse in the position closest to the prongs of the tap and the other fuse for the accessory, What did you use for the accessory?

Or did you just use this?
1673471957055.png
Ahhh, helps to read slower at my age, haha. I used 2amp fuses. The Garmin's said they pulled approximately 1.2-1.5 amps. So I threw a 2 amp fuse in mine. And I did use the first one you listed, the one with two fuses in them.
 

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95tequesta

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Ahhh, helps to read slower at my age, haha. I used 2amp fuses. The Garmin's said they pulled approximately 1.2-1.5 amps. So I threw a 2 amp fuse in mine. And I did use the first one you listed, the one with two fuses in them.
Thanks! and I know the feeling. I should have written my question better.
 

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Following up on this. I'm going to use #2 in the passenger fuse box for a high-draw laptop charger, and want to pull from a separate fuse location (hot when truck on, i.e. not constant) to add a cellular booster. Did you end-up using #4 @AAWhyte ? Was it hot only when the vehicle was on?

Based on your helpful table, it looks like I could use #22 (hot in start and run) for my purpose? (obviously don't want to drain the battery when truck is off).

Thx for any suggestions.
 

AAWhyte

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Following up on this. I'm going to use #2 in the passenger fuse box for a high-draw laptop charger, and want to pull from a separate fuse location (hot when truck on, i.e. not constant) to add a cellular booster. Did you end-up using #4 @AAWhyte ? Was it hot only when the vehicle was on?

Based on your helpful table, it looks like I could use #22 (hot in start and run) for my purpose? (obviously don't want to drain the battery when truck is off).

Thx for any suggestions.
Hey Scuba,

#2 is a switched 12V. Meaning it will only be on when the truck is running.
#4 is a constant 12V when the truck is running or off.

Yes seems #22 would be a good choice. if you are using #2 for something else.
 

scuba

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Alright-- thanks. For others who find this thread:
1) Fuse 22 was a "micro 3" , meaning it has 3 legs. You can still use it (if you're like me and had never seen one before). The fuse tap worked b/c the center is hot, I guess.

2) When you're using the ground next to the passenger fuse box, be careful not to crease the trim tab directly above it. (which you will do if you're trying to remove the nut from it with anything other than witchcraft).
 

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