Vin
Well-known member
removing the bumper would have had zero impact on ease or speed of install IMO
i took 4hrs because i am not exactly a spring chicken and many of my parts dont like laying on a blanket on cold concrete . basically did it with 1 and 1/2 arms.
ten years ago, i could have put it on in half that time
once i got the bolts fished through the frame , i MAN handled the hitch up to fit against the frame, by laying it on my chest and then pressing it into place, to make sure i was centered so i knew exactly what to cut out of the upper air dam
once it was cut, i used the floor jack to lift and move in place
the directions said i had to remove the upper air dam and cut portions of the lower fascia
i did not need to do that.
a simple math equation and measurements put me exactly what needed to be cut out. the fascia only needed about 1/2 inch of a cut to allow it fold upwards about 3/8 inch
the side brackets are cut to be EXACT within about .032 of inch so its a tight fit and took a bit of adjusting to get the holes to align
i also used some super adhesive to glue 2 1/2 inch thick pieces of hard rubber to the hitch tube , just behind the cut out edges of the air dam so the dam stays in shape and not fold back under wind load.
i thought i could re install the moveable portion of the air dam, but after many measurements and drawings, i decided it can not go back on without severely weakening the lower dam, and or having to install bracing on its back side, which would negate parts of its ability to flex if stuff hit it
so tomorrow i will remove the actuators and cap the connections for elect. not sure if will set light, or not. if it does i guess i will figure out of forscan or a dummy plug will fix the light
i may put my license plate in a position that hides the hitch and hinges up when i need to use the hitch for aesthetics .
Good write up. When my active air dam was removed and the plugs were taped up, I didn't get any error codes or idiot lights.
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