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Bed Cap Install & Wiring Issues

jaedfw

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Any update from the dealer on third brake light not working from wire in engine bay?
Went to the Dealer Service, and they want to charge $200/hr since it was installed by an aftermarket not associated with the dealer's aftermarket shop. I can't/won't pay that.

Went to the sales side and was able to get them to call their installer.
They said they've never heard of tapping the wire under the hood.
Recommended to go to either the driver or passenger kick panel, or on some models tap directly into the taillight brake.

Sorry, not definitive answer on that wire under the hood :(
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Sojourner

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Went to the Dealer Service, and they want to charge $200/hr since it was installed by an aftermarket not associated with the dealer's aftermarket shop. I can't/won't pay that.

Went to the sales side and was able to get them to call their installer.
They said they've never heard of tapping the wire under the hood.
Recommended to go to either the driver or passenger kick panel, or on some models tap directly into the taillight brake.

Sorry, not definitive answer on that wire under the hood :(
I've read that some don't have luck with the under the hood wire (no one knows why) and that they did have to go the kick panel route. I've also heard that some had luck using the left rear light assembly but that it depended on what type lights one has.

In my case (2023 Tremor 402A) the wire under the hood worked perfectly for the CHMSL, whereas it was a no go with the left tail light. On my Ranger I was told the left rear tail light wouldn't work, but it did without any problems whatsoever.

Now if I could only sort out the wire bundle on the driver side sill in order to finish the auto lock/unlock I'd be in heaven. What a bear (unlike the Ranger which was a breeze). On my F150 I can't tap into the lock/unlock circuit in the tailgate b/c I have the power tailgate and have been told the circuit won't work for the topper auto lock/unlock.

I know the stuff about auto lock/unlock doesn't necessarily apply here, but my point is this: what should be a simple process that Leer (or other topper manufacturers) could make easy for us isn't. And you know it isn't when even the local Leer dealer doesn't know how to do the install (nor do calls to Leer or the auto lock/unlock module manufacturer support help).

Very frustrating. 😕
 

MARCUSO

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I am about to tackle this, I located the brake wire under the hood, seems easy enough. I am trying to find a spot to bring in the wires into the cab for the lock/unlock.
I read that there is a grommet behind the rear seat, might look into that. Also one in the floor for power running boards.

I bought the canopy second hand, which came with the locking mechanism. I did try to test the mechanism, with no luck. It seems as if there is no ground to the mechanism. I am assuming that one wire sends a pulse to unlock, and the other to lock, but no response when hooking up to power. What am I missing? I had the constant power and ground hooked up also..

All I see is 2 wires there, the green and the blue.
 

Sojourner

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I am about to tackle this, I located the brake wire under the hood, seems easy enough. I am trying to find a spot to bring in the wires into the cab for the lock/unlock.
I read that there is a grommet behind the rear seat, might look into that. Also one in the floor for power running boards.

I bought the canopy second hand, which came with the locking mechanism. I did try to test the mechanism, with no luck. It seems as if there is no ground to the mechanism. I am assuming that one wire sends a pulse to unlock, and the other to lock, but no response when hooking up to power. What am I missing? I had the constant power and ground hooked up also..

All I see is 2 wires there, the green and the blue.
That's all it is; two wires for the CHMSL and two for the auto lock/unlock. Reharding the latter, see posts 23 and 26 above in this thread for the best place to tap into.

I ran both sets of wires from the topper along the frame (actually in the frame after wrapping them in wire loom). Exited the frame a the the drivers door for the auto lock/unlock and went into the cabin using the grommet in the drivers floorpan (and caulked around the slice).

I'm waiting for good weather to finish the splice.

Maybe I misunderstood your question. If so, sorry.
 
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powerboatr

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I will be tackling this on mine when it comes back from paint this week
Ford used to have a customer access brake light wire under bed near spare.
Why on earth is it under the hood now?
I figured tspping brake lifht off 7 pin connector under bed.
Wondering if it will cause truck to think a trailer is hooked up ..seeing it will see a current draw when brakes are applied

Ford F-150 Bed Cap Install & Wiring Issues 20240304_180513
 

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MARCUSO

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That's all it is; two wires for the CHMSL and two for the auto lock/unlock. Reharding the latter, see posts 23 and 26 above in this thread for the best place to tap into.

I ran both sets of wires from the topper along the frame (actually in the frame after wrapping them in wire loom). Exited the frame a the the drivers door for the auto lock/unlock and went into the cabin using the grommet in the drivers floorpan (and caulked around the slice).

I'm waiting for good weather to finish the splice.

Maybe I misunderstood your question. If so, sorry.
The only thing I am confused is, that there is no ground wire to the lock body. I tested it with a live wire and they don't respond. I will inform once I have it all hooked up.
 

powerboatr

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I am about to tackle this, I located the brake wire under the hood, seems easy enough. I am trying to find a spot to bring in the wires into the cab for the lock/unlock.
I read that there is a grommet behind the rear seat, might look into that. Also one in the floor for power running boards.

I bought the canopy second hand, which came with the locking mechanism. I did try to test the mechanism, with no luck. It seems as if there is no ground to the mechanism. I am assuming that one wire sends a pulse to unlock, and the other to lock, but no response when hooking up to power. What am I missing? I had the constant power and ground hooked up also..

All I see is 2 wires there, the green and the blue.
could you post up a picture of where the wire was located?
i looked today and i am sure its bound in a wrapper hidden
thanks
 

MARCUSO

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Did you get this figured out? I just put a topper on and am having the same issue. Tested the wire itself and no signal when braking (voltage). Also have 2023 PB crew longbed.

For reference on the lock unlock wires, here is an image for anyone who has issues with locating the wire. The lock wire is grey/ brown, not brown/ grey as called out in that ARE spec. This is the driver kick area. The blue/ green is correct for the unlock.

PXL_20240128_233148317.jpg
I believe you are meaning brown/green for unlock. I tried the blue/green, which is a smaller wire and it no worky.
the leer instructions said brown/ green from the plug under the glove box. The brown green is the same gauge and I got a signal.
 

MARCUSO

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could you post up a picture of where the wire was located?
i looked today and i am sure its bound in a wrapper hidden
thanks
it’s just it’s just under where the air box attaches to the fender. It’s tucked in the wrapping. I just tugged it a bit and it pulled out.

Ford F-150 Bed Cap Install & Wiring Issues IMG_4316
 

Thejeffman

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I believe you are meaning brown/green for unlock. I tried the blue/green, which is a smaller wire and it no worky.
the leer instructions said brown/ green from the plug under the glove box. The brown green is the same gauge and I got a signal.
I meant grey brown, but there are definitely multiple wires in there that would work. Good to know!
 

Hickory

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I found this wire on my 22 powerboost but it does not function when I use the brake. Is there something in FORSCAN that needs to be enabled?
Were you able to get this resolved? I have a 22 PB also and am not getting any voltage out of that wire.
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