Anyone with experience in removing Trailer Backup Assist?

[Gutshot]

It’s totally useless to me, and I’d like to use that spot for my AirLift dial gauge when my compressor arrives
TIA. .

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[EricR]

Can't help you with removal, but consider leaving it in for the next owner.

It is very handy when towing a travel trailer.

 

[astrand1]

Yeah and if you remove the dial it might throw a code or mess with the can-bus system. I’d leave it alone if it was me. I know airlift for one has digital gauges that way you don’t have to have gauges physically screwed into the dash or whatever.

 

[Gutshot]

I should have been more specific, I don’t want just cut it out, more of a pull out from the small faceplate and leave behind the dash, and utilize that open hole for the air gauge. I have found a video on how to remove the dash to that point, and it looks like there is just a plug that’s run whether or not you get the backup assist. Go to the 6:30 mark and it looks pretty simple to tuck away in dash.

https://www.google.com/search?q=202...nt=safari#kpvalbx=_OFFLY--EOreGptQPmqSpqAQ_27

 

[oneinch]

Yes. Just remove it from the dash and stuff it behind the dash intact. Go to the parts counter and buy this plate from another trim level of your choosing.

 

[Buyer2021]

I'm referring to the Workshop Manual, section 413-13D, Removal and Installation, Pro Trailer Backup Assist Control Knob which covers both 8" and 12" screens and is 26 pages long (!) ....

Here's the diagram showing the actual retention and removal of the knob / switch / surrounding trim assembly which is held in place with four barbed-tabs:

Note the square-ish trim piece immediately surrounding the knob appears to be integral with the switch assembly.

The big effort and the reason for the 26-page procedure is in removing all of the dash trim necessary to get to the back of that panel to do that simple step. There may be a shortcut, there may be a YouTube, FWIW the workshop manual procedure shows removal of lots of pieces to get there.

Note it appears that when the assembly is removed you're left with a hole in the supporting dash that's only about the diameter of the visible knob. Looks to me like if the gauge you want to insert is larger than that you'll be in for some Dremel work, and that may leave a situation where the OE tab slots won't survive, making restoration to true OE difficult (you might have to use glue rather than the barbed tabs to put back the original assembly).

Hope that helps, I understand why and what you want to do but not sure it's worth the effort and risk of introducing dash-trim squeaks or rattles.

Were it me (and I'm definitely into sanitary integration of aftermarket stuff) I think I'd be looking for a space in/behind an existing covered cubby or in the console if you've got that (thinking adjusting the AirLift will be only an occasional operation done when not moving). Have Fun!

 

[UGADawg96]

I'd like to replace mine with a rotary gear shifter and get rid of the POS console shifter.

 

[Gutshot]

I'm referring to the Workshop Manual, section 413-13D, Removal and Installation, Pro Trailer Backup Assist Control Knob which covers both 8" and 12" screens and is 26 pages long (!) ....

Here's the diagram showing the actual retention and removal of the knob / switch / surrounding trim assembly which is held in place with four barbed-tabs:

Note the square-ish trim piece immediately surrounding the knob appears to be integral with the switch assembly.

The big effort and the reason for the 26-page procedure is in removing all of the dash trim necessary to get to the back of that panel to do that simple step. There may be a shortcut, there may be a YouTube, FWIW the workshop manual procedure shows removal of lots of pieces to get there.

Note it appears that when the assembly is removed you're left with a hole in the supporting dash that's only about the diameter of the visible knob. Looks to me like if the gauge you want to insert is larger than that you'll be in for some Dremel work, and that may leave a situation where the OE tab slots won't survive, making restoration to true OE difficult (you might have to use glue rather than the barbed tabs to put back the original assembly).

Hope that helps, I understand why and what you want to do but not sure it's worth the effort and risk of introducing dash-trim squeaks or rattles.

Were it me (and I'm definitely into sanitary integration of aftermarket stuff) I think I'd be looking for a space in/behind an existing covered cubby or in the console if you've got that (thinking adjusting the AirLift will be only an occasional operation done when not moving). Have Fun!

Thank you for that info, I will wait to see what the actual dimensions of the gauge are before I commit to that kind of surgery. And I absolutely hate a constant rattling while I drive from anything inside the cab.

 

[monkey2022]

Thank you for that info, I will wait to see what the actual dimensions of the gauge are before I commit to that kind of surgery. And I absolutely hate a constant rattling while I drive from anything inside the cab.

You end up removing it?

 

[Gutshot]

You end up removing it?

No sir
I wanted to install my air bag gauge in that spot, I took a total different route. Still dead space on my dash tho.

 

[BAPP702]

It’s totally useless to me, and I’d like to use that spot for my AirLift dial gauge when my compressor arrives
TIA. .

There is only 4 clips holding it in and the connector. Pull from the top of the plate at the vent and it pops off. I will run out to my truck and take a picture of the backside so you can get an idea of what it looks like. No code will be set with it removed. the picture I have is of the delete cap but its the same attachment points.

 

[Gutshot]

Thx for the info
But I’ve installed my gauge under the back seat, running the lines to that location and to the air compressor wasn’t happening

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