am I the only one with piss poor mpg

[Suns_PSD]

I hand calculated my mpg and it was dead on to the computer, as it should be. I've used the exact same pump and technique for every fill up on this vehicle.

One thing that can happen is gasoline can evaporate. Not sure if emissions control systems still allow this on modern cars but historically letting a vehicle sit a long time would significantly reduce mpg just because gasoline would be lost to evaporation.

The engine mpg calculators are only going off the fuel that runs through the engine only.

I would suggest if your hand calculated mpg is off more than a tenth or so from your computer that it's related to your fueling source or something simple like the angle your truck is parked at, fill speed, etc.

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[diambo4life]

Do you use cruise control on the highway?

 

[DT444T]

I drive on the central coast of CA as well, driving 81 mostly highway miles RT during the week. In my 2021 3.5EB with just under 25k miles I had an average of 19.5 MPG (truck stated; never reset trip 2). On the way to work is slightly more uphill, way home is the opposite. I could get in the 20 MPG range on a trip down to SD easily, and sometimes even got about 700 miles on a tank (36gal). In my 2023 3.5EB, I just filled up for the 2nd time…these pictures were taken 40 minutes apart starting my trip home. Adaptive Cruise set to 68mph. To put it another way, in 38 miles of actual driving I increased my estimated range by 10miles. I drive in sport mode for the purposes of smoothing out the transmission learning and forcing it to go through the gears sequentially. I have a soft fold RC tonneau and a roush intake (302a/3.55axle/4x4/trailer tow,sport,FX4,bed utility package)

FYSA you are on the PowerBoost specific part of this forum, we're talking PowerBoost drive trains.

 

[Thor’s Stormboost]

FYSA you are on the PowerBoost specific part of this forum, we're talking PowerBoost drive trains.

My apologies still learning the forum ways

 

[Aron]

I hand calculated my mpg and it was dead on to the computer, as it should be. I've used the exact same pump and technique for every fill up on this vehicle.

One thing that can happen is gasoline can evaporate. Not sure if emissions control systems still allow this on modern cars but historically letting a vehicle sit a long time would significantly reduce mpg just because gasoline would be lost to evaporation.

The engine mpg calculators are only going off the fuel that runs through the engine only.

I would suggest if your hand calculated mpg is off more than a tenth or so from your computer that it's related to your fueling source or something simple like the angle your truck is parked at, fill speed, etc.

If I recall correctly, the Powerboost has a pressurized fuel tank (it's why it takes a few seconds to release the door when you press the fuel button), so I don't think that there would likely be much in the way of fuel evaporation.

 

[Aron]

I drive on the central coast of CA as well, driving 81 mostly highway miles RT during the week. In my 2021 3.5EB with just under 25k miles I had an average of 19.5 MPG (truck stated; never reset trip 2). On the way to work is slightly more uphill, way home is the opposite. I could get in the 20 MPG range on a trip down to SD easily, and sometimes even got about 700 miles on a tank (36gal). In my 2023 3.5EB, I just filled up for the 2nd time…these pictures were taken 40 minutes apart starting my trip home. Adaptive Cruise set to 68mph. To put it another way, in 38 miles of actual driving I increased my estimated range by 10miles. I drive in sport mode for the purposes of smoothing out the transmission learning and forcing it to go through the gears sequentially. I have a soft fold RC tonneau and a roush intake (302a/3.55axle/4x4/trailer tow,sport,FX4,bed utility package)

This happens to me quite often. As your calculated fuel effiency improves, it multiplies the fuel remaining by an increasing average, resulting in a fairly significant range increase if you have enough fuel remaining. And as long as your fuel efficiency stays high, it seems to be fairly accurate. (I've also seen how a decreasing average fuel efficency reduces your estimated range by more than the distance you drive, so it works both ways.)

 

[DT444T]

My apologies still learning the forum ways

I'm not trying to spank you and take away your birthday or anything. Just lettin' you know that while your input isn't unappreciated it's not super relevant, here. No offense or hard feelings.

 

[oneinch]

If you want your best MPG from any engine there's one gauge to look at. You can go light on the throttle. You can watch the tach. MPG comes down to vacuum. Get a vacuum gauge. Learn to drive with the most vacuum you can achieve. Vacuum = no load. What's the opposite? Boost = load and poor MPG.

 

[TXSTEEL]

Anecdotally it all comes down to speed, at least for highway. Non-hybrid 3.5 here, 17.7 MPG is my normal mix.
Long drives when it's not crazy windy?
65 mph: ~24 MPG
75 mph ~19 MPG
95 mph: 9.5 MPG (over about 5 miles too)
Camper shell on the back, mostly flat geography, ~500 to 800 feet ASL.

Edit: There's a stretch of tollroad near Austin that's posted 85 MPH, so 95 is "really only just ten over, ossifer."

I know that stretch of road and it always makes me nervous when I know my college son is traveling it and driving in the 90s.

 

[gb7FRz26]

I know that stretch of road and it always makes me nervous when I know my college son is traveling it and driving in the 90s.

I guess the good thing is he probably won't find any deer prancing across the road randomly. But yeah that is a ton of kinetic energy to dissipate if a tire blows out or something.

 

[gpbst3]

Im interested in the PB but I would need to have guaranteed MPG to make it cost effective. In SW Pennsylvania you cant go more than 1/4 miles without going up or down a hill. Doing some quick math, I would have to average 20mph to make a 4 year break even price point. Meaning it would take me 4 years of 20 mpg before I would see any gas saving of the $2500 PB upgrade over the 3.5 engine.

 

[Jus Cruisin]

Im interested in the PB but I would need to have guaranteed MPG to make it cost effective. In SW Pennsylvania you cant go more than 1/4 miles without going up or down a hill. Doing some quick math, I would have to average 20mph to make a 4 year break even price point. Meaning it would take me 4 years of 20 mpg before I would see any gas saving of the $2500 PB upgrade over the 3.5 engine.

I owned a Powerboost. Winter weather, no better mpg than a normal 3.5l Ecoboost. I bought the Powerboost with the big generator early on as a home electric back up. Then after a few months when people started to try to use it to backfeed the house and found out you pretty much need to rewire the house - no good. The Powerboost was not benificial for me. The only engine I would consider in the F150 would be the 3.5l Ecoboost.

 

[gpbst3]

I owned a Powerboost. Winter weather, no better mpg than a normal 3.5l Ecoboost. I bought the Powerboost with the big generator early on as a home electric back up. Then after a few months when people started to try to use it to backfeed the house and found out you pretty much need to rewire the house - no good. The Powerboost was not benificial for me. The only engine I would consider in the F150 would be the 3.5l Ecoboost.

I though the option to power the house was nice but then it spiraled down hill quick. I already have a 6500W generator and a transfer switch which was less than $1000 total a year and a half ago.

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