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Adding a Sub to non-unleashed BO system

succeed23

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The audiocontrol unit I went with automatically senses an Audio signal and turns on…no need for a remote turn on…part of the simple install comment
Oh that's cool! Thanks.
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succeed23

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All the audiocontrol amps and line converters have this feature.
That's what I get for going with a $15 LOC. I'll switch to audio control if I can't find a 12v fuse that turns off only when acc turns off.

Oh and nice setup! My sub box comes out about an inch, but yours looks like it's flush with the seat. Enjoy! ?
 

succeed23

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Update:

A friend and I used a 4g amp kit to install a JD500/1 (400 RMS x 1 @ 2Ω), and a CS112TG-TW3 (400 RMS x 1 @ 2Ω) on a 2021 F150 Lariat. I accessed the center speaker to get access to the front speaker wires, and used a TC-LOC2 (two line converter). I used add-a-fuse to get 12v from a fuse (#2) only when the truck is on, and verified that the power cuts off only when I power off the truck and open a door. All applicable connections are grounded and verified via multimeter, and my buddy even used solder anywhere he felt that the connection wasn't solid. We power on the truck, amp powers on as expected, I play some music but nothing comes through the sub. We believe we isolated the issue to the LOC by connecting the rca's from my buddy's car to the amp in my truck, and we noticed the sub worked! We used the same rca's from his car (since we knew they worked) in my truck. We connected the rca to the LOC and the amp, but the sub didn't get a signal. Anyone have any troubleshooting steps I can run through? I'll swap out the LOCs and see if that fixes things, but any guidance would be highly appreciated.
 
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ricko24

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Update:

A friend and I used a 4g amp kit to install a JD500/1 (400 RMS x 1 @ 2Ω), and a CS112TG-TW3 (400 RMS x 1 @ 2Ω) on a 2021 F150 Lariat. I accessed the center speaker to get access to the front speaker wires, and used a TC-LOC2 (two line converter). I used add-a-fuse to get 12v from a fuse (#2) only when the truck is on, and verified that the power cuts off only when I power off the truck and open a door. All applicable connections are grounded and verified via multimeter, and my buddy even used solder anywhere he felt that the connection wasn't solid. We power on the truck, amp powers on as expected, I play some music but nothing comes through the sub. We believe we isolated the issue to the LOC by connecting the rca's from my buddy's car to the amp in my truck, and we noticed the sub worked! We used the same rca's from his car (since we knew they worked) in my truck. We connected the rca to the LOC and the amp, but the sub didn't get a signal. Anyone have any troubleshooting steps I can run through? I'll swap out the LOCs and see if that fixes things, but any guidance would be highly appreciated.
Check Speaker wire connection tap is solid
 

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Jspec05

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@ricko24 - I'm looking to using the same amp that you used and tap into the factory b&o sub and was wondering do you get any volume cut out on the sub when you turn it up? I was reading that the b&o detects clipping and turns down the output??
Also is there any reason why you left the factory b&o sub plugged in after adding the new one?

Thanks!
 
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ricko24

ricko24

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@ricko24 - I'm looking to using the same amp that you used and tap into the factory b&o sub and was wondering do you get any volume cut out on the sub when you turn it up? I was reading that the b&o detects clipping and turns down the output??
Also is there any reason why you left the factory b&o sub plugged in after adding the new one?

Thanks!
I ended up disconnecting the stock sub…it’s garbage. I doubt you are going to get much better sound by effectively powering the sub with a different amp.
 

JBinFla

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Update:

A friend and I used a 4g amp kit to install a JD500/1 (400 RMS x 1 @ 2Ω), and a CS112TG-TW3 (400 RMS x 1 @ 2Ω) on a 2021 F150 Lariat. I accessed the center speaker to get access to the front speaker wires, and used a TC-LOC2 (two line converter). I used add-a-fuse to get 12v from a fuse (#2) only when the truck is on, and verified that the power cuts off only when I power off the truck and open a door. All applicable connections are grounded and verified via multimeter, and my buddy even used solder anywhere he felt that the connection wasn't solid. We power on the truck, amp powers on as expected, I play some music but nothing comes through the sub. We believe we isolated the issue to the LOC by connecting the rca's from my buddy's car to the amp in my truck, and we noticed the sub worked! We used the same rca's from his car (since we knew they worked) in my truck. We connected the rca to the LOC and the amp, but the sub didn't get a signal. Anyone have any troubleshooting steps I can run through? I'll swap out the LOCs and see if that fixes things, but any guidance would be highly appreciated.
How does that speaker fit under the rear seat? Dimensions make it seem like it'll poke out about 1/2" or maybe a tad more. Do you have any pics? Thanks
 

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BCrippsy38

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Anyone have luck installing a slim powered subwoofer, like the kicker hideaway, on the 8 speaker b&o with factory sub?
 

Derek83

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Anyone have luck installing a slim powered subwoofer, like the kicker hideaway, on the 8 speaker b&o with factory sub?
Its sitting on my work bench just waiting for a break in the weather and ill be installing the 10"kicker in the b&o non-unleashed.
 

BCrippsy38

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Its sitting on my work bench just waiting for a break in the weather and ill be installing the 10"kicker in the b&o non-unleashed.
I hear ya, looking into it now to do in the spring. Do you have an idea of where you're mounting it? I have under seat storage so seems like only option is to mount where the factory sub is or under one of the front seats. Also curious if a LOC is needed?
 

superfordman

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Its sitting on my work bench just waiting for a break in the weather and ill be installing the 10"kicker in the b&o non-unleashed.
I'm heavily looking into doing the exact same so curious how it turns out for you and compares to the B&O sub. If I go this route, I plan to try and install it behind the back seat after removing the factory sub plus some insulation if needed. I had a custom box I made to fit back here on my previous trucks, but how the back panel bows and sticks out now for the factory sub, it won't fit back there anymore.
 

Derek83

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I hear ya, looking into it now to do in the spring. Do you have an idea of where you're mounting it? I have under seat storage so seems like only option is to mount where the factory sub is or under one of the front seats. Also curious if a LOC is needed?
From what i have seen, it should fit behind the seat. I too have the under seat storage. I plan on pulling the factory sub to free up space. I rolled the dice, kicker HS10 has pre amp filter and speaker level so im going to try with out loc, if its still not great then ill drop in an loc.
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